This makes no sense. How is "Being Looser" an advantage over a freshly rebuilt engine? It may have had a track record ,as you say, for 10 years and 150k miles, but that by no means it is better than a rebuilt engine or will last any longer than a rebuilt engine. I would rather use a rebuilt engine (Even rebuilding one from the Junkyard) than a unknown condition junkyard engine to throw into a vehicle at my shop. Also, "Being Looser" is not one of the things I would hope for when looking for or tearing into an engine.

What I am trying to understand is, without cost being any factor here, you're saying you would rather use an engine with 150k miles without knowing anything about it, over a freshly rebuilt engine just because the other engine has lasted 150k miles and has a "Track Record". There is nothing saying it wont last another minute from this point on. With a fresh engine, at least you know everything is in spec and the condition of everything is new/great.

The oiling system on these engines is pretty simple. Most of the time you slap on a Melling 10295 Pump and new o-ring, a new barbell, and as long as your cam and mains are good then your good to go and have great oil pressure, that's pretty much it for oiling system mods for your basic run of the mill LS engine. Without getting into Dry Sump or crazy plumping for turbos or something like that.


Oh, and don't forget........GM Recommends 10 PSI of Oil Pressure per 1,000 RPM
Haha Just kidding, I had to.


Also, it may be best for you to start your own thread with any questions, concerns, problems, or engineering advice you have with the GM oiling system rather than deviating on other peoples threads. Not trying to be a ***, just thought a better place to discuss this would be on your own created thread since everything now has nothing to do with the OP. The OP is over here with a problem with his engine and now the thread is completely switched because of a Loose Barbell and GM Oiling System Discussion/Debate. Just my opinion, and since the other thread got locked.

 

two reasons. looser piston rings means more tolerant of power adders. You take apart a high mileage engine and it may have much bigger gaps.
next is, you can get away using thicker oil. Many people swap a JY engine and right away go 10W-40 or even 50W when it calls for 30. The engine is more tolerant of using the thicker oil, even though it may not even need it.

with a "fresh engine" you do NOT know everything is in spec. You do not sound like you have had many fresh engines. They are rarely in spec. The only way to ensure it is to do everything yourself, buy all your own equipment, or rent/barrow it, but that would cost somebody hundreds of thousands of dollars and you would need to devote your life to machine work so you can build 10 or 1000 or 100000 engines and test them all to find out which one survives the best under the conditions you intend to use it in.

public non-scientific forums are wild cards, this one especially, devoted to entertainment, the relevant clue is advertisements (like TV). keep that in mind. If you see me, or anyone here, it really is for a laugh more than anything else.

 

Going to need some more info on this setup!

 

Still makes no logical since to me. If you are going to build an engine for boost or nitrous, use the correct Pistons and rings. Nitrous and boosted engines in performance applications generally use piston rings and/or pistons for that purpose, it is not just the gap setting. You can get away with 6-7 PSI in stock form with a good engine, but anything over 10psi is pushing it, especially for a high mileage stock engine. If the high mileage stock piston rings are loose, who says the engine doesn't need a fresh bore/hone, or the rings are shot. Thicker oil is used when tolerances are out of spec, it generally makes no difference in the performance aspect for your basic engine. If I run into an engine that is close to 200k miles, I may tell the customer to run a 40w oil depending on inspection, but I prefer to use the oil the engine was designed to use.

I have dealt with plenty of rebuilt motors, I have rebuilt 6 just this year. I just picked up a GM crate LS3/430HP that I bought for a project, my 31' Ford Hotrod, before it was stolen a few weeks ago from out of our shop. I am an engine specialist at a shop, so I deal with engines all the time. Now, it is mostly rebuilding to stock form or crate motors, rarely do any major modifications, but I have in the past. I have never dealt with a rebuilt motor that is way out of spec. The place we get out rebuilt engines from gives us a spec sheet so we know the tolerances. Also, if an engine builder is rebuilding engines and you actually have to tear into to make sure the specs and tolerances are correct...you should probably look for another engine builder. Now I know some bearing and crank manufactures prefer a looser clearance, but that does not mean it is out of spec.

But Heck, this is just my opinion and how I would do things, some people might agree with your idea on the used high mileage engine.

 

Speak for yourself. If you lurk around here long enough(Lord knows, I have...) you figure out who here has real-deal advice from experience AND expertise. You have neither. You spout theory and principles ad nauseum after claiming total ignorance of the LS oil system. You argue with those I describe above over minor points because you need to win the argument due to some obscure point being possibly valid. There are people here, where upon seeing their name I read intently. They are the true gurus of LS enginedom. Some guys DO get laughs here, some intentional, some not....

 

I wish everything was built obviously. i never meant do not build the engine, i get that all the time. obviously if you can up the game and build everything and customize everything and test it and use it practically some way then more power for you. Some people are stuck with no income, or limited, and have to try and re-use proven tech. If the goal is really reliable transportation single car theory then we only can make it as reliable as possible. Once you customize away from proven expectation it makes more sense to avoid 1-off custom settings.

Once you own a second car, all those problems go away. But that becomes the switch of whether or not to use nitrous and any other custom mod down from the bottle: can I afford to blow it apart and replace it. I would never have two cars, both reliable daily drivers, unless apocalyptic situation is set in. My posts are about getting more from value when income is limited, when build everything is not an option.

 

But you keep going on about testing this or proving that, when in fact what you are testing or proving HAS ALREADY been tested and proven! What, you don't believe results?? Build your engine, use proven parts and methods, and enjoy the new ride! The wheel has been invented, many times over! Once more by you will make no difference. You are over-thinking WAAAY too much.

 

Burn

 

King talon, do you realize this thread was posted by someone who was trying to salvage his car? He came here 1 month ago for info, and look what YOU turned his thread into; a chest beating circus (on your part). You're a troll, not just in this discussion either. Do everyone a favor and stop.

Surprised a moderator or hasn't stepped in here-this thread is no longer informative.

 

entertainment at its finest

the info you are able to extract is not equal to that which others might extract, 1 opinion is worthless in a sea of billions.

the 'post' literally means nothing, it is meaningless information

millions of people refused to look into a telescope because it was already proven that the earth was flat or at the center of the universe.

keep asking yourself where the mods are, why does it matter. you found a site where you log in purposefully and then complain about what you see? You realize that this is all voluntary right? Nobody is forcing you to read any of this.

But keep reading, by all means this is how you want to spend your life. I dont read when it dont count.

 

to the guy with 10psi, this info isn't "meaningless". But I wouldn't expect an arrogant narcissist to think about anyone but himself. Typical ricer d-bag.

 

I do one of two things, if im feeling good (and have time to kill) one day and need a laugh i read kingtalons posts. If i actually am looking to help someone or contribute to a thread (most times) i skip right over his BS. Bc after all he is right, this IS voluntary, you can read what you want, and leave when you want.

 

I 100% agree; king talon has a right to be a complete douchebag every time he comments. But that also means I can call him out each time he is being a douchebag, which is every time.