StorminMatt

My LS1 turned out to be a piece of garbage. But rather than rebuilding it, I just decided to upgrade to an LS2 from a GTO instead. Unlike the LS1, it came with all accessories, a wiring harness, and an ECU. It also looks clean enough inside to eat off of. And I don't have to worry about that stupid LS1 smog gear. But it DOES have one flaw - a cross threaded spark plug hole. I looked into the Time Sert kit to repair the threads, and they claim it can be used without pulling the heads. Doing it without pulling the heads would certainly be easier and save LOTS of cash (although I WOULD like to stud the heads, I could do without the expense of studs and gaskets right now). On the other hand, you hear mixed messages about the effect of metal shavings on the motor. Some say anfew flakes of aluminum are nothing to worry about, while others will say they will kill your motor. What do you think? Should I pull the heads or just do the job with the motor together?

Jontall

I would buy a thread chaser (Summit Racing has low cost thread chasers), grease it and try to repair the threads before I pulled the head. If it works, you're good to go. If you can't repair the threads, then you will need to pull of the head and use a Time-Sert thread repair kit. Always put a small amount of anti-seize on spark plug threads and thread them in with your fingers (only).

StorminMatt

I have a thread chaser, and it doesn't work for this problem. The threads are simply much too damaged for the chaser to go in straight. About the only way to clean them without removing the heads would be to use a back tap (expandable tap, http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80595...tk5hoCCjjw_wcB), which can be started on the good inner threads and brought out. Otherwise, the head would NEED to come off and be chased from the inside out. But the REAL problem here is that SO much of the original thread is damaged - probably a third to a half. I don't know that I feel good about having THAT little thread holding the plug in. An insert may be the only truly reliable repair.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

If half of the threads are still good you will probably be Ok. I would try to repair before pulling the head. What is there to loose?

As mentioned above a little bit of anti-seize on the threads will help and hand starting is key. My TA has had probably a dozen plug changes with anti-seize and no issues. We always use a torque wrench to make sure the plug is correctly tightened to 11 foot pounds.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi, my method in to make the Intake Manifold and Combustion Chamber a "higher" pressure than the SPH.
The air is then flowed into the BAD chamber at LOW volume.
I have used Time-Serts often, their kit works well.

You will NEED to remove both Valve Covers.
Then find the "open" Intake Valves, remove those Rocker Arms.

Next "fit" a LONG push rod on the intake valve of the Repair Chamber.
You ONLY need to "crack" the valve open, watch for lifter bleed.

I use my shop air with a regulator set to five PSI with the chosen valve open AND a small air report from the repair plug hole.
The "home" air supply could be as simple as a Lawn Blower, just watch your max PSI.

Lance