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Old 07-13-2017, 03:49 PM
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Whomever told you that is wrong. gm uses reg alum mahle clevite cam bearings.
Old 07-13-2017, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tech@WS6store
Whomever told you that is wrong. gm uses reg alum mahle clevite cam bearings.
So no worries, just go forward like it was a regular small block Chevrolet and take the cam bearings out, then install new ones like normal?
Old 07-13-2017, 04:00 PM
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http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh....php?t=1450946

This was where I got that info from about the line honing
Old 07-13-2017, 04:07 PM
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Correct, hammer out...hammer in...done. You will need to know specifically what yr block as they changed in 03.

Take EVERYTHING you read on yellowbullet with a grain of salt. Too many chiefs over there and not enough indians.

Besides would it make sense to mass produce a block with a messed up cam bore then go through the process on every single block machined then install an oversize bearing then hone them all out?
If you drive the bearing out you can see the pn on it and search it...you find what i said is right.

If rhe cam tunnel is off the blocks are either rejected or marked as blem and set aside.
Old 07-13-2017, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tech@WS6store
Whomever told you that is wrong. gm uses reg alum mahle clevite cam bearings.
What part is Aluminum? I thought it is Babbit?? That is a Magnet hanging on to the Steel Part


What does FM stand for on this one?
Old 07-13-2017, 04:58 PM
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Most bearings nowadays are steel-backed, with bearing material that is soft aluminum-based alloy.
Old 07-13-2017, 05:26 PM
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:47 PM
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That doesn't say GM uses those, looks like a new Product, or is this older Marketing?
The reason I ask, the last Cam Bearings in a 5.3 I replaced had a copper color to them.
Any Idea what the FM stands for?
Old 07-13-2017, 11:56 PM
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FM is a mahle trademark. Gm uses mahle bearings and pistons in their ls engines.
The copper color was the bi metal design, the inner alum alloy was already worn through.
Old 07-14-2017, 09:09 AM
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I have been doing some more reading (dangerous, I know), and it seems to me that my plan to use the stock rockers with a bushing trunion upgrade may not be the best choice, for these reasons:

-I want to be able to drive the truck every day, for another 100,000 miles if I own the truck that long, and the engine still be in good condition like it was for the original 150,000.
-It seems that the bushings are claimed to only be good for a certain period, which makes sense, because a bushing is obviously a wear item. I have seen claims for 50,000 miles, but who knows if that is an accurate figure, they may go more or less than that.

My next question, is there an aftermarket roller rocker arm that will be totally reliable for a lot of miles, that I can use on my stock heads, and I can just spend the extra money on them now to get rid of any worry about valvetrain wear?

Harland Sharp
Comp
Yella Terra
Scorpion
Mast

Or any others?
Old 07-14-2017, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BuschPerformance
I have been doing some more reading (dangerous, I know), and it seems to me that my plan to use the stock rockers with a bushing trunion upgrade may not be the best choice, for these reasons:

-I want to be able to drive the truck every day, for another 100,000 miles if I own the truck that long, and the engine still be in good condition like it was for the original 150,000.
-It seems that the bushings are claimed to only be good for a certain period, which makes sense, because a bushing is obviously a wear item. I have seen claims for 50,000 miles, but who knows if that is an accurate figure, they may go more or less than that.

My next question, is there an aftermarket roller rocker arm that will be totally reliable for a lot of miles, that I can use on my stock heads, and I can just spend the extra money on them now to get rid of any worry about valvetrain wear?

Harland Sharp
Comp
Yella Terra
Scorpion
Mast

Or any others?
If you are concerned with reliability why do you want to use the high lift version
of the hot cam? It only makes a few more HP up top and looses a few HP in the lower RPM where you mostly use the cam in a daily, unless you drive wide open
everywhere you go, more lift means more stress on valve train, the stock
rocker arms would rather not have the extra lift, especially for the same HP.
I dont get why people want more lift for not hardly any more power. What
did they claim 10 HP, would you even feel 10 HP? So less power where you
normally drive for more stress on the valve train.
The GM version of the Hot Cam would be more reliable in the long run. And
GM version you can use stock length pushrods. For the high lift version
they use a smaller base circle on the cam lobe so the lifter sits farther away
from rocker arm so you have to use a longer push rod, so you have to measure
for longer pushrods, too much trouble for not much gain and more stress.
My .02

Don't forget Texas Speed Has new Roller Tip Rocker Arms which look like they be worth having,
suppost to be light on the valve side.
Old 07-14-2017, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by slogo
If you are concerned with reliability why do you want to use the high lift version
of the hot cam? It only makes a few more HP up top and looses a few HP in the lower RPM where you mostly use the cam in a daily, unless you drive wide open
everywhere you go, more lift means more stress on valve train, the stock
rocker arms would rather not have the extra lift, especially for the same HP.
I dont get why people want more lift for not hardly any more power. What
did they claim 10 HP, would you even feel 10 HP? So less power where you
normally drive for more stress on the valve train.
The GM version of the Hot Cam would be more reliable in the long run. And
GM version you can use stock length pushrods. For the high lift version
they use a smaller base circle on the cam lobe so the lifter sits farther away
from rocker arm so you have to use a longer push rod, so you have to measure
for longer pushrods, too much trouble for not much gain and more stress.
My .02

Don't forget Texas Speed Has new Roller Tip Rocker Arms which look like they be worth having,
suppost to be light on the valve side.
The reason I was going to use the high lift hot cam, was because Tech@WS6store recommended it for my application, and that was the only reason. The stipulations I gave for the recommendation were: I would like it to lope some at idle, not need a stall converter, and make power up to 6000-6500. If there is a better one that fits that bill, (especially that I can get as a package for $515 with PAC springs), I'm all ears.

The Texas Speed rockers do look nice, but for the price point, they still use the Comp style roller bearings that are supposed to suck. So that puts me back at a stock rocker with a bushing. I think that is what I will end up going with. I also think I will do the CHE over the Straub kit though. I talked with CHE, and they say their bushings will be good for lots of miles. I know their other products are top notch too, so these should be no different.

Last edited by BuschPerformance; 07-14-2017 at 02:38 PM.
Old 07-14-2017, 12:28 PM
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The cam didnt lose any hp down low. the variation is within the margin of error esp a run from 2+ months earlier and 30 degrees cooler. This was one test also and the lobes have been redesigned since then.
As far as reliability, there is zero evidence to show these lobes are any less reliable than the gm cam. The cam core is def more durable and made of better steel to start with.
As stated by Dave thsy tested the cam, he gave his personal feedback in that it drove better and was quieter underhood than the og hot cam.

Op youll be very pleased with the cam. You are correct, the bushings will wear but the jury is still out on how long they will last. It will depend on many more factors than just miles of course. We are offering an option soon as well...when it is ready, we will let you know!! It will be very soon.
Old 07-14-2017, 02:38 PM
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The FM stands for Federal- Mogul a brand bought by Mahale. The make good bearings and piston rings.
Old 07-18-2017, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by BuschPerformance
I have been doing some more reading (dangerous, I know), and it seems to me that my plan to use the stock rockers with a bushing trunion upgrade may not be the best choice, for these reasons:

-I want to be able to drive the truck every day, for another 100,000 miles if I own the truck that long, and the engine still be in good condition like it was for the original 150,000.
-It seems that the bushings are claimed to only be good for a certain period, which makes sense, because a bushing is obviously a wear item. I have seen claims for 50,000 miles, but who knows if that is an accurate figure, they may go more or less than that.

My next question, is there an aftermarket roller rocker arm that will be totally reliable for a lot of miles, that I can use on my stock heads, and I can just spend the extra money on them now to get rid of any worry about valvetrain wear?

Harland Sharp
Comp
Yella Terra
Scorpion
Mast

Or any others?
Texas speed just came out with a real nice new roller tipped rocker that looks like a stock rocker with bushings.
Old 07-18-2017, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by gagliano7
Texas speed just came out with a real nice new roller tipped rocker that looks like a stock rocker with bushings.
I decided to go with CHE bushed rockers. I have some more pics and progress as well. I will post pics soon.
Old 07-18-2017, 12:25 PM
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Oh ya...i forgot

Rpmspeed HD Rocker Upgrade

Yes i realize its a threa with a link to another thread...kinda like Threadception
Old 08-30-2017, 01:41 PM
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Any pics coming soon?



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