swain tech coatings
#4
No issues with either the company or the coating. I would definitely use them again.
Identify directly on the parts (with marker) where you DON'T want the coating. Its very tough and not easily removed. It didn't come off when I was trying to wedge the headers in and scraped them against various metal parts. There is no chance that coating will peel like the others I've seen (JetHot). The Swaintech rep laughed when I asked the maximum temperature of the coating. He said it gets applied at something like 3000°.
Never measured the temps but it feels cooler under the hood than when I had stock exhaust manifolds. I HPDE my car so the headers get a good heating!
Identify directly on the parts (with marker) where you DON'T want the coating. Its very tough and not easily removed. It didn't come off when I was trying to wedge the headers in and scraped them against various metal parts. There is no chance that coating will peel like the others I've seen (JetHot). The Swaintech rep laughed when I asked the maximum temperature of the coating. He said it gets applied at something like 3000°.
Never measured the temps but it feels cooler under the hood than when I had stock exhaust manifolds. I HPDE my car so the headers get a good heating!
#5
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i figured the stories were bs, i know how some customers can be.
i was thinking about sending my headers and heads to them, but you have to do a valve job to them after the coating gets done.
they said "Because the head needs to be sent disassembled and we cannot keep track of which valve goes in which hole most do the valve job after coating.
Also, when we coat the exhaust port there will be coating which gets on the exhaust seat. That coating needs to be lapped or ground off the seat once you get the head back from us."
i was thinking about sending my headers and heads to them, but you have to do a valve job to them after the coating gets done.
they said "Because the head needs to be sent disassembled and we cannot keep track of which valve goes in which hole most do the valve job after coating.
Also, when we coat the exhaust port there will be coating which gets on the exhaust seat. That coating needs to be lapped or ground off the seat once you get the head back from us."
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i get the exhaust obviously
im assuming you had pistons and valves done in 85. why didnt they turn out good and why wasnt it their problem?
last one im lost lol (jethot?)
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Piston/Valve Coatings
Hi FG, you are one of few here that are able to respond with a good tech question.
My answer : The coating surface rejects heat, sure, the problem is that the metal UNDER the coated surface can MELT.
This CAN happen and when it does the CERAMIC "flakes" will destroy the valve seat, turbine blades, other items in the area/path of the combustion. (cylinder walls)
Swain Tech did NOT manufacture the piston, thus "not their fault".
When I coat exhaust I have BOTH inside/outside sprayed if possible.
This is MOST critical at the head port exit, the hottest area.
JETHOT = Vendor name (I have had good luck with them for exhaust)
Lance
My answer : The coating surface rejects heat, sure, the problem is that the metal UNDER the coated surface can MELT.
This CAN happen and when it does the CERAMIC "flakes" will destroy the valve seat, turbine blades, other items in the area/path of the combustion. (cylinder walls)
Swain Tech did NOT manufacture the piston, thus "not their fault".
When I coat exhaust I have BOTH inside/outside sprayed if possible.
This is MOST critical at the head port exit, the hottest area.
JETHOT = Vendor name (I have had good luck with them for exhaust)
Lance
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thanks for the compliment
I thought that's what you were getting at.
when you had the failure happen was it during a extreme situation?
i would think with a properly operating cooling system there wouldnt be a problem with parts melting. except for N2O of course
I remember reading a Hotrod article form the late 90s i think (i was like 13 at the time). they did some testing like holding an oxy acetylene torch on 2 pistons at the same time one coated and one not.
they stopped the test after the uncoated piston had a hole in the top and the ring lands melted off, but the coated piston was undamaged.
i have the article burried some where. i just moved tho, so you know how that goes lol
does that mean you wouldn't recommend coating the pistons, valves, combustion chambers and exhaust ports.
I thought that's what you were getting at.
when you had the failure happen was it during a extreme situation?
i would think with a properly operating cooling system there wouldnt be a problem with parts melting. except for N2O of course
I remember reading a Hotrod article form the late 90s i think (i was like 13 at the time). they did some testing like holding an oxy acetylene torch on 2 pistons at the same time one coated and one not.
they stopped the test after the uncoated piston had a hole in the top and the ring lands melted off, but the coated piston was undamaged.
i have the article burried some where. i just moved tho, so you know how that goes lol
does that mean you wouldn't recommend coating the pistons, valves, combustion chambers and exhaust ports.
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Creamic Coatings = yes/no
Hi FG, = yes/no THINK = OK
COOL pistons with Oil Squiters = OK (not sure)
Gallery Pistons = Should work fine = also not sure ???
YES ! (NOT A CURE ALL)
Lance
COOL pistons with Oil Squiters = OK (not sure)
Gallery Pistons = Should work fine = also not sure ???
YES ! (NOT A CURE ALL)
Lance
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Piston Falure AREA
Hi FG, YES an Enigma, good work again.
The "code" is that I am not sure if the ceramic coating of the combustion area is safe.
You ARE one here that has given good answers/questions for LS-1 tech members.
I too read/have the Hotrod article you spoke of AND followed THAT "tech" with the ABOVE engine damage report.
I love the DLC coatings for Ti valves, piston pins, oil pump rotors.
I love the PVD, Titanium Nitrate, coating for rings.
I love the "anti scuff" coatings on piston skirts.
I love N20 (chill) with reports of EGT's of UNDER 1000F when the tune is correct.
The piston is UNABLE to be coated in the problem area, the Ring Lands.
The damage starts at the crown edge/top ring area.
THEN as seen by fire fighters, it burns UNDER the coated area melting the aluminum.
Modern Race Engines/OEM Engines use piston Oil Jets with some fitting Gallery Pistons.
I would trust the OEM stance.
Lance
The "code" is that I am not sure if the ceramic coating of the combustion area is safe.
You ARE one here that has given good answers/questions for LS-1 tech members.
I too read/have the Hotrod article you spoke of AND followed THAT "tech" with the ABOVE engine damage report.
I love the DLC coatings for Ti valves, piston pins, oil pump rotors.
I love the PVD, Titanium Nitrate, coating for rings.
I love the "anti scuff" coatings on piston skirts.
I love N20 (chill) with reports of EGT's of UNDER 1000F when the tune is correct.
The piston is UNABLE to be coated in the problem area, the Ring Lands.
The damage starts at the crown edge/top ring area.
THEN as seen by fire fighters, it burns UNDER the coated area melting the aluminum.
Modern Race Engines/OEM Engines use piston Oil Jets with some fitting Gallery Pistons.
I would trust the OEM stance.
Lance