Booster01

I have an LQ9 w/ 110k miles. I planned on putting the engine into a 73 C10 2WD w/ manual three speed. Want I want to build the engine for is a daily driver that has a very strong torque curve. I planned on pulling the 317 heads and running a set of slightly milled 243s, but not milled enough to need piston work. I want the compression to be 11-1 or so if possible. The engine comes with 42# gm performance injectors and 1 7/8" long tube headers. Am I even headed in the right direction?
Want kind of cam and intake should I run(stock?)

I really like the results of Patrick G's cam setup .223/231 .610/.617 113LSA +4 advance using Comp LSL.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...p-446rwtq.html

64post

iTrader: (5)

A good start but you'll be limited to how much valve lift you can run. 243's milled, .040-.050" head gasket and stock flat tops with no valve reliefs that will be an obstacle. Cutting valve reliefs with an Isky tool weakens an already brittle cast piston. Forged pistons with reliefs, run any shelf cam. Straub bronze bushing trunion upgrade, .080" wall cromoly pushrods, skip the LS6 intake please.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

We have a full range of torque cams avail.
Our high lift hot cam should put you in the 380-400 ft lb range. its 218/228 .600/.600 112. Idles good, easy to tune, and works with either stock, flex fuel 32/36 or 42s.
Its easy to drive and works on a budget also.
$515 for cam and springs or $590 for cam springs and pushrods. We also have options for oil pumps, timing sets, and great prices on cam install kits.

If you need more info please let me know or email me

Rpmspeedtech@gmail.com

gagliano7

I like the combo you picked. I am building a similar setup with a LQ4. Should drive really nice and have good torque. Should be easy to tune also.

Booster01

I was hoping not to do any bottom end work at this time. I don't plan on running a super aggressive cam. So do you think it would be okay if I just surfaced them and used a .040 set of head gaskets?

What did you mean by the last couple sentences?

Booster01

Is that 380-400 ft lb to rear wheels? Because these lq9s put that number to the crank from the factory I thought. I could be wrong. How does the idle sound? Does it have any lope, or is it pretty smooth?

Booster01

I'm hoping so! I see in your sig the Cam Motion cam. Mind if I ask why you went with that one?

64post

iTrader: (5)

No matter what cam you use, you should check your piston to valve clearance. Use modeling clay, it's pretty easy, there are Youtube vids showing you how if you don't know already.

Booster01

I suppose the easiest thing to do would be to pick a cam and have the machine shop mill as much as thing can while checking clearance and not going so far I can't run pump gas. But I'll start looking for those videos as well.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

64post valve lift has little to do with ptv. Advance on the cam, lsa, and overall duration @.050 make the difference.

Our high lift hot cam will not have ptv issues with your setup.

You are basically building an iron ls2 so its pretty easy to work with cam selection.

Here is a video of the cam in an ls1.


The torque numbers would also be at the rear wheels, sorry i should have specified that. It has a pretty good idle to it, youll know its there. It is also very quiet on the valvetrain side.

Booster01

I was looking at your Hot Cam, and I saw on the Time slips there was a big difference in 60' times and 1/8 mile. It was a fair bit slower than the original hot cam. Was there something wrong? Thank you for all the help btw!

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

When you look at time slips like that the mph means power increase. The time is changed by many other factors.
He was running worse tires but he also launches soft as he is still running the stock 10 bolt with 3.90 gears so the teeth on ring and pinion arent as thick as say a 3.73 even or 3.42.
If he launched it hard he could hit a sub 2.0 60 foot easy if he could stick.
The long and short of it is, even though he pulled a worse time, picking up 5mph means a pretty good power increase. The time is based off driver basically.

Hope that helps!

Booster01

It does! I figured it was something like that. Would the stock intake be worth messing changing with that cam and the larger injectors?

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

The stock truck intake is ok. The tbss intake is an upgrade but takes even more $$ to make it work. Depends on your budget!

64post

iTrader: (5)

Oh you're right Mr. store clerk, nobody should ever check their PTV, not necessary, ever. What else are you selling?

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

I never said that. we actually know some of our cams will be close and tell people up front to check ptv.

gagliano7

I went with cam motion because there lobes are valvetrain friendly. I have one in my 5.3 now and it is very quiet. The one i went with for my 6.0 was just looking at everyone's different cam setups so i decided on those specs for good power, easy to tune and great drive ability. With the cam i have in my 5.3 now i can lug in 5th gear at 1200 rpms with no bucking.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Well, he was right and you were wrong. He never said not to check PTV either, so you're wrong again. Not sure what you're agitated about, but let's try to stay on topic and keep the information accurate please.

fastlt1

iTrader: (4)

What is the rpm range of this cam and what kind of gains


​​​​​​​

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

The rpm range will vary depending on intake heads and exhaust but should be from 1800-6300 with stock cathedral intakes.
Gains...every engine is diff so i cannot say exactly. Id expect 50+ hp at the wheels vs stock with full exhaust and a good cai and tune.