Build ideas? CAM, Heads and such.
Build ideas? CAM, Heads and such. Looking at doing another engine build with my "stock unmolested" newly purchased 35th SS LE. Just bought the car so I'm very hesitant on tearing anything apart since it's got 10,300 miles. I don't want to go the same route with my z28 in my sig.
I want to build a Pro Touring car so I'm being careful with what parts I throw at it. Eventually I will pull the motor and forge internals and procharge. I've been looking at Alchemists build. But that will come with time.
Looking to do a cam that I can build off of. Something that's good with nitrous and eventually procharged. Looking to get in the low 12s to high 11s.. I used to run a 150 shot on my old Z28. So I'm aware what the car will do and what's needed. I just need advice on picking a cam. The TSP MS3 was too much. Way too lopey for me. Something with street manners but changes with power adders. I just want to be smart with the build. Thoughts or Advice?
My ideas so far:
TSP 1 3/4 headers w/ catted Y pipe (I hated the true duals)
CME Catback!
4000 stall
243 heads, PRC stg 2 heads or??
Cam??
Nitrous Express wet kit
I will regear after advice from tuner
Eventually D1X procharger.
I want to build a Pro Touring car so I'm being careful with what parts I throw at it. Eventually I will pull the motor and forge internals and procharge. I've been looking at Alchemists build. But that will come with time.
Looking to do a cam that I can build off of. Something that's good with nitrous and eventually procharged. Looking to get in the low 12s to high 11s.. I used to run a 150 shot on my old Z28. So I'm aware what the car will do and what's needed. I just need advice on picking a cam. The TSP MS3 was too much. Way too lopey for me. Something with street manners but changes with power adders. I just want to be smart with the build. Thoughts or Advice?
My ideas so far:
TSP 1 3/4 headers w/ catted Y pipe (I hated the true duals)
CME Catback!
4000 stall
243 heads, PRC stg 2 heads or??
Cam??
Nitrous Express wet kit
I will regear after advice from tuner
Eventually D1X procharger.
Yeah that makes perfect sense. I would think something like a 228 cam on a slightly wider LSA might be a good compromise. I'm sure the vendors on here can come up with something you'll be happy with
Agreed! That's why I said I want a cam I can build off of. If that's even possible going from nitrous to forced induction? A cam good for both nitrous and forced induction. I know this gets technical. That's why I'm asking these questions lol. Overall what I'm planning is going the poor mans route for now and eventually just sell my nitrous kit and buy a D1X kit. I can buy a D1X now but it would be stupid since the car is stock. I'm building up to it. Hence the nitrous first 😎
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Thanks. I'll look into the 228. I'll call TSP tomorrow and see what they can come up with in terms of my build plan.
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Joined: Aug 2016
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From: Indiana
I would ditch the idea of N2O then a Procharger. Just save up your money and contact Bob at Brute Speed for the D1X.
Read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...arged-cam.html
Read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...arged-cam.html
I would ditch the idea of N2O then a Procharger. Just save up your money and contact Bob at Brute Speed for the D1X.
Read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...arged-cam.html
Read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...arged-cam.html
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,149
Likes: 60
From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
Don't even bother with the internal modifications or nitrous. Just go straight to the blower and maybe add a set of upgraded valve springs; and exhaust/fuel system to support the power.
The best road car/grand tourer I have built to date is our D1SC'd TBSS (stock LS2 w/LS9 cam) - the Mrs. cannot tell of the changes despite going from a 14 second stone to an 11 second Drag Week participant.
You may want to consider a tighter converter (3200-3600) because 4K is going to feel mushy and sloppy for a true road car.
The best road car/grand tourer I have built to date is our D1SC'd TBSS (stock LS2 w/LS9 cam) - the Mrs. cannot tell of the changes despite going from a 14 second stone to an 11 second Drag Week participant.
You may want to consider a tighter converter (3200-3600) because 4K is going to feel mushy and sloppy for a true road car.
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; Aug 18, 2017 at 09:24 AM.
My blower cam does a great job, and has worked well for people who want to install a cam in an N/A engine prior to going with forced induction. Thanks. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
I know what your trying to do but at the same time, why build all this and spend all the money around a 300-400 dollar cam? That doesn't make sense. If you wanna do a NA/Nitrous setup do that and when you wanna switch to a blower setup, pull it out, sell it for 225-250 and get the appropriate cam for the application. Now if it was a set of pistons or an expensive set of heads or something I understand but a 400 at most cam?
And on the thought of he others, I agree with the, if you can put a blower on it now, do it even if it's stock motor. Put a set of springs PAC 1218s (cheap) and throw a 255 pump with Hotwire kit/60lb injectors and roll with it.
Also go 1 7/8 headers right off the bat and don't go 4K stall. 3400ish.
Last but not least if you do want to have a 10k build around a 400 cam shaft then bob's brutespeed cam is the one you want.
And on the thought of he others, I agree with the, if you can put a blower on it now, do it even if it's stock motor. Put a set of springs PAC 1218s (cheap) and throw a 255 pump with Hotwire kit/60lb injectors and roll with it.
Also go 1 7/8 headers right off the bat and don't go 4K stall. 3400ish.
Last but not least if you do want to have a 10k build around a 400 cam shaft then bob's brutespeed cam is the one you want.
Don't even bother with the internal modifications or nitrous. Just go straight to the blower and maybe add a set of upgraded valve springs; and exhaust/fuel system to support the power.
The best road car/grand tourer I have built to date is our D1SC'd TBSS (stock LS2 w/LS9 cam) - the Mrs. cannot tell of the changes despite going from a 14 second stone to an 11 second Drag Week participant.
You may want to consider a tighter converter (3200-3600) because 4K is going to feel mushy and sloppy for a true road car.
The best road car/grand tourer I have built to date is our D1SC'd TBSS (stock LS2 w/LS9 cam) - the Mrs. cannot tell of the changes despite going from a 14 second stone to an 11 second Drag Week participant.
You may want to consider a tighter converter (3200-3600) because 4K is going to feel mushy and sloppy for a true road car.
I know what your trying to do but at the same time, why build all this and spend all the money around a 300-400 dollar cam? That doesn't make sense. If you wanna do a NA/Nitrous setup do that and when you wanna switch to a blower setup, pull it out, sell it for 225-250 and get the appropriate cam for the application. Now if it was a set of pistons or an expensive set of heads or something I understand but a 400 at most cam?
And on the thought of he others, I agree with the, if you can put a blower on it now, do it even if it's stock motor. Put a set of springs PAC 1218s (cheap) and throw a 255 pump with Hotwire kit/60lb injectors and roll with it.
Also go 1 7/8 headers right off the bat and don't go 4K stall. 3400ish.
Last but not least if you do want to have a 10k build around a 400 cam shaft then bob's brutespeed cam is the one you want.
And on the thought of he others, I agree with the, if you can put a blower on it now, do it even if it's stock motor. Put a set of springs PAC 1218s (cheap) and throw a 255 pump with Hotwire kit/60lb injectors and roll with it.
Also go 1 7/8 headers right off the bat and don't go 4K stall. 3400ish.
Last but not least if you do want to have a 10k build around a 400 cam shaft then bob's brutespeed cam is the one you want.
Agreed. I was looking into a huron kit. I can buy a D1, intall and tune and forget about it. Turbos are more complicated and something I don't want to deal with. It's crazy that I could have put a 3.4 crusher whipple twin screw on my cobra for $4600 give or take. A 4.0 whipple crusher kit capable of 30 psi is 6k. Why are D1 kits a $1,000 dollars shy of a brand new lsx 376 b15? But to do the same with Fbodys I'm paying close to 7k tuned. I could buy alot with 7k. I'm just not ready to drop that amount of money right of the bat for a stock fbody with no supporting mods for the blower. I'm probably just going to get a good cam and build it for nitrous.
Last edited by 02z28marom6; Aug 19, 2017 at 07:39 PM.
I went from only having nitrous set ups to a turbo set up not knowing anything about turbos besides the basics. I too thought it would be a headache and a lot to deal with but it wasn't like that. Now thats its all done I love it. But then again my car already had the necessary things for a power adder like trans,suspension,rear end etc.