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Input on which direction I should go on LS chevelle build
I just sold off the last of my 70 chevelle and replaced it with a nice 65 malibu ss. It has a solid roller 396 , headers, holly 750 and edelbrock intake, dual flowmasters and behind it is a TH350. Motor is around 400 HP at the crank. This is not bad for the street , nice power and a decent cruiser but its horribly inefficient. I might be lucky to get 10 mpg. This is the excuse im giving my wife in order to go ls based
Id love to do a full build but the money is just not there all at once at the moment so id like to go with a junkyard build. This is a street only car and I would like 450-550 crank hp . I keep seeing 5.3s with power steering, ac and harness for under 700 bucks so that is very enticing, but ive read the cubes are the limiting factor unless they are boosted. Id love to go boosted but that’s mega uncharted territory for me and im not all that sure what the end result would cost. Im also seeing vortec 6.0s in the 1500-2000 range with all accessories. The 6.0 seems to be much easier to get into my power range but cost will be about the same ( just guessing) as a boosted 5.3 id love to go 5 or 6 speed but Im not sure if I want to cut apart the tunnel yet to fit one so id probably end up with a 4l80e . stock 10 bolt needs to go in this swap as its probably not built for what I have now nor is the th350.
I will probably be running hooker ls headers built for this car unless I go boosted, but I don’t see that happening unless I literally get walked through the process of what I need. That’s the only known part to this build.
Any suggestions on a build or directions I could look into? Again a ground up build with a good shortblock built by someone like Thompson motorsports would be great but it seems it would end up costing much more in the long run.
Look for an LS3 or L99(delete DOD & VVT) out of a Camaro or Vette(LS3), and give it some cam. Should put you at 500 CrankHP easy. IDK how expensive these engines are getting, though. I would think a 6.0 with good heads and a cam should do at least as well. I would try to stay with an aluminum block, as it lacks 100# you don't need to carry around.
CLEAN Chevelle, BTW!
Look for an LS3 or L99(delete DOD & VVT) out of a Camaro or Vette(LS3), and give it some cam. Should put you at 500 CrankHP easy. IDK how expensive these engines are getting, though. I would think a 6.0 with good heads and a cam should do at least as well. I would try to stay with an aluminum block, as it lacks 100# you don't need to carry around.
CLEAN Chevelle, BTW!
thank you!
The ls3 pull outs are in the 6500+ range With accessories . If I was going that high I'd have one built or buy a new gm crate .
WHOA! That better be with a tranny AND ALL electrical. A new LS3 crate can be had for a little over 6k. So yeah, back to a 6.0 I guess. Between you and me, almost ANY LS is gonna run well enough for a strong street runner, with a mildly lumpy cam and good exhaust system (Long tubes WAKE these guys up!) Even an iron block would be OK as the heads are still aluminum. I just presented a best-case scenario above. If you can dupe a junkyard guy into thinking an L99 is subgrade because of the DOD/VVT, that would be cool, but that might be wishful thinking. Keep us updated!
WHOA! That better be with a tranny AND ALL electrical. A new LS3 crate can be had for a little over 6k. So yeah, back to a 6.0 I guess. Between you and me, almost ANY LS is gonna run well enough for a strong street runner, with a mildly lumpy cam and good exhaust system (Long tubes WAKE these guys up!) Even an iron block would be OK as the heads are still aluminum. I just presented a best-case scenario above. If you can dupe a junkyard guy into thinking an L99 is subgrade because of the DOD/VVT, that would be cool, but that might be wishful thinking. Keep us updated!
those prices are motor only . I think the sellers figure knock off 1-2 I becuse it's used . Don't get me wrong. I'd love an ls3 na 550hp. But it seems I'll be close to 10k for the trunk key
Yeah. I see where you're at. Actually, a 6.0 with LS3 heads would be VERY close to a full-on LS3. Also, look at L92 truck engines. Essentially an LS3 in truck clothing. Maybe cheaper?
That still has to be less than the LS3's. I can't see the accessories running $3500. You might have to do a little driving to get a good deal.
Strictly curious, where are you?
That is a low compression 6.0, but it looks like everything has already been stripped off. I would pass, unless you have all the stuff. Buying it would nickel and dime you to death.
Good thinking! Best is to get EVERYTHING from the same vehicle, that way you KNOW it will all work together.
Meanwhile keep checking the local boneyards for newly wrecked LS vehicles (especially 3/4 ton trucks).
The aluminum block motors are sky high in price compared to the iron block motors. People still pay 2k+ for LS1 motors lol. There is roughly a 100 pound difference though. However I bet an iron 6.0 with aluminum heads (some had iron) and plastic intake is lighter than the small block you pull out with steel heads and steel or aluminum intake.
You could bore the 5.3 out to a 5.7 but then the cost would probably be higher than just buying a 6.0
If you want to put a little money in the 6.0 and have a fresh build then clean it up and do that or bore the 6.0 out and put some hyperutectic pistons in it, same as OE that can handle a ton of power but around $300 instead of $800 or so
Or just buy a 6.0 and put some decent heads and cam and make your 500+ goal. Or bore it for more.
Trans stuff. A 4L80 isn't necessary. A well built turbo 350 or a 4L60 can handle your goal, but if you buy a 6.0 pullout it's likely to have a 4L80 attached. And a stock 4L80 will handle your goal, but it's big and heavy. Another benefit though is if you buy a 6.0 4L80 pullout it'll have the right wiring and computer to run the 80. If you buy a 6.0 pullout that had a 4L60 behind it (rare but it'd likely be a LQ9 which is better) and you want to run an 80 then you'd need some conversion hardware or you could use the 4L60 if it was there or you could source one.
The aluminum block motors are sky high in price compared to the iron block motors. People still pay 2k+ for LS1 motors lol. There is roughly a 100 pound difference though. However I bet an iron 6.0 with aluminum heads (some had iron) and plastic intake is lighter than the small block you pull out with steel heads and steel or aluminum intake.
You could bore the 5.3 out to a 5.7 but then the cost would probably be higher than just buying a 6.0
If you want to put a little money in the 6.0 and have a fresh build then clean it up and do that or bore the 6.0 out and put some hyperutectic pistons in it, same as OE that can handle a ton of power but around $300 instead of $800 or so
Or just buy a 6.0 and put some decent heads and cam and make your 500+ goal. Or bore it for more.
Trans stuff. A 4L80 isn't necessary. A well built turbo 350 or a 4L60 can handle your goal, but if you buy a 6.0 pullout it's likely to have a 4L80 attached. And a stock 4L80 will handle your goal, but it's big and heavy. Another benefit though is if you buy a 6.0 4L80 pullout it'll have the right wiring and computer to run the 80. If you buy a 6.0 pullout that had a 4L60 behind it (rare but it'd likely be a LQ9 which is better) and you want to run an 80 then you'd need some conversion hardware or you could use the 4L60 if it was there or you could source one.
A junkyard 6.0 just took 1482 hp before giving out on the westech dyno. Twin turbos and cam... Still find you a nice 6.0 junkyard motor and cam/springs/trunnion upgrade.... you will hit your goal