Ls1 build. What parts do I need to replace?
Ls1 build. What parts do I need to replace? I have a 2000 corvette ls1 I picked with 84,000 on it. I'll be putting it in my 70 Camaro. I'm wanting to change it to carbureted and do a cam maybe heads. What supporting mods should I replace.... Milling oil pump, LS2 timing chain, ARP head bolts, new coil wires, new harmonic balancer bolt, what else should I replace or anything on my list I don't need to worry about? Also was going to do trunion rock arms, LS7 lifters, push rods, ASA high lift cam, head springs......do I need to pull the oil pan and look at the main bearings? Should I use ARP main bolts? Is 84,000 miles safe to do these performance parts without messing with the short block much? I'm new to the LS world and learning lots but still have lots to learn! Thank you guys for the help and direction!
84k is very good for an LS. I know of guys who have 200k + on the sbe and they're running fine.
An oil pump upgrade is never a bad idea, nor is a good timing set. If you can spring for some better lifters (and roller rockers) you'll have better longevity and stability out of your valvetrain.
What are your power goals with this system? Through an automatic or manual trans?
An oil pump upgrade is never a bad idea, nor is a good timing set. If you can spring for some better lifters (and roller rockers) you'll have better longevity and stability out of your valvetrain.
What are your power goals with this system? Through an automatic or manual trans?
I would keep the stock bottom end as is provided the engine was well without issue because 84,000 miles isn't that many miles. With proper maintenance 300,000 is pretty doable. I have a friend that tore down a 297,000 mile 4.8 - when he saw all the parts he was like I should have just ran it as is.
My 99 TA had 165,000 miles on the old LS1 about 133,000 of that with heads & cam with 4.10 gears. That's close to 200,000 miles in rpm with stock gears. The old LS1 runs well and is probably getting swapped as is to another car with the bottom end as is.
I would leave the Rod bolts alone in less you have the rods resized. Changing bolts can distort the Rod when tightened up. Some get away with it some don't.
My 99 TA had 165,000 miles on the old LS1 about 133,000 of that with heads & cam with 4.10 gears. That's close to 200,000 miles in rpm with stock gears. The old LS1 runs well and is probably getting swapped as is to another car with the bottom end as is.
I would leave the Rod bolts alone in less you have the rods resized. Changing bolts can distort the Rod when tightened up. Some get away with it some don't.
Manual transmission, 3:73 gears, weekend hotrod that I'll take to the drag strip once or twice to see what it will do but other then that I plan to autocross it. From other build I have read about I should be around the 500 crank HP Mark with the high lift ASA cam and heads. There is a member selling NASCAR parts 799 heads ported and better springs and has then in either 61cc or 64cc for a fair price. I'm thinking I might get a set of those. Holley mid rise single plane carbureted intake, mid length headers....should have strong mid range power and still rev pretty good! Anyone else have any input on parts I might want to get while I'm in the engine?
Regarding the NASCAR 799 heads Wegner' does a nice one. I picked up a pair here on the board. With all the bells and whistles like vacuum pump etc and right parts they can do high 500's at the wheels with a single plane. If I ever use mine, I plan to have the titanium exhaust valves replaced and keep the titanium intake valves..
I would check the heads carefully before using - mine have a replacement valve. I picked up an LS2 block from the same vendor. It's a good block just needs to go .010 over for clean up.
I would check the heads carefully before using - mine have a replacement valve. I picked up an LS2 block from the same vendor. It's a good block just needs to go .010 over for clean up.
I'll echo the suggestion to leave the bottom end alone. Unless you're spinning it near or past 7k, the stock pieces should be fine. I probably wouldn't bother with the oil pump either. If you're autocrossing, a baffled oil pan would be a good idea, and I'd also suggest running 7 quarts of oil to hedge against any starvation issues.
Melling oil pump, - probably not needed, especially with 85k
LS2 timing chain, - same as oil pump, but inspecting the guide wouldn't be a bad idea.
ARP head bolts, - They're good peace of mind if you think you may be pulling heads often, but otherwise stock bolts are fine for your intended use. ARP = pricey.
New coil wires, - can't hurt, but probably not necessary. I'd save that for when you're bored later
New harmonic balancer bolt, - only if you're removing or replacing the balancer. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
trunion rock arms, - Yes
LS7 lifters, - as long as your spring pressures aren't too high, Yes
push rods, - not 100% necessary, and an easy upgrade later if you feel you need them
ASA high lift cam, - looks like a decent cam
head springs. - cam suggested to run with PAC1218s
do I need to pull the oil pan and look at the main bearings?
You'll probably be upgrading the pan for the swap. But as long as the crank turns nicely I wouldn't pull anything apart for inspection.
Melling oil pump, - probably not needed, especially with 85k
LS2 timing chain, - same as oil pump, but inspecting the guide wouldn't be a bad idea.
ARP head bolts, - They're good peace of mind if you think you may be pulling heads often, but otherwise stock bolts are fine for your intended use. ARP = pricey.
New coil wires, - can't hurt, but probably not necessary. I'd save that for when you're bored later
New harmonic balancer bolt, - only if you're removing or replacing the balancer. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
trunion rock arms, - Yes
LS7 lifters, - as long as your spring pressures aren't too high, Yes
push rods, - not 100% necessary, and an easy upgrade later if you feel you need them
ASA high lift cam, - looks like a decent cam
head springs. - cam suggested to run with PAC1218s
do I need to pull the oil pan and look at the main bearings?
You'll probably be upgrading the pan for the swap. But as long as the crank turns nicely I wouldn't pull anything apart for inspection.
