3.8" Wiseco Pistons to Clear a 2.04" Valve?
11-03-2017, 05:51 PM
#1
3.8" Wiseco Pistons to Clear a 2.04" Valve? Just curious... picking up a 5.3L LM7 block and wanting to know if I should keep it at 3.800" or punch it out to 3.9"?
This will be for a turbo setup. Looking to use the TEA Stage 2 Heads I have now which have a 2.04" intake valve. As long as I don't make contact, would prefer to use the smaller motor with the turbo.
This will be for a turbo setup. Looking to use the TEA Stage 2 Heads I have now which have a 2.04" intake valve. As long as I don't make contact, would prefer to use the smaller motor with the turbo.
11-03-2017, 09:10 PM
#2
TECH Senior Member
Whoa, that's gonna be TIGHT! But you might be the one to do it...
11-03-2017, 09:47 PM
#3
Yeah, sort of discarded the D1X idea. Decided I wanted to run something to tame the car and that was adjustable for street vs racing...
So looking at a forged 5.3L, PT7675, 226/231 Cam, 93/Meth Mix, Twin Walbro 267s and Bosch 95s, FTI Triple Disk 3600 Stall, and a custom 3" DP to my modified TDs... 800rwhp through the stalled auto. Then turn it down to 650 or so for the street.
So looking at a forged 5.3L, PT7675, 226/231 Cam, 93/Meth Mix, Twin Walbro 267s and Bosch 95s, FTI Triple Disk 3600 Stall, and a custom 3" DP to my modified TDs... 800rwhp through the stalled auto. Then turn it down to 650 or so for the street.
11-04-2017, 11:02 AM
#4
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Punch it out to 4.0 and put the 4.8 crank and rods in it.
That’d be great on boost.
That’d be great on boost.
11-04-2017, 01:59 PM
#6
Nah, I want the stock 5.3L size. It works well with the T4 turbos I'm looking at. And if I decide to go ahead and get rid of my BeCool and MightyMouse Shroud, I'll swap over to the Griffin standup radiator with the MM Shroud for it. That'll make a lot of space for something like a BW S476 87mm compressor 1.25 A/R... that'd be 1000rwhp turbo all day. And would need a little more cubes...
11-04-2017, 06:23 PM
#7
Just curious... picking up a 5.3L LM7 block and wanting to know if I should keep it at 3.800" or punch it out to 3.9"?
This will be for a turbo setup. Looking to use the TEA Stage 2 Heads I have now which have a 2.04" intake valve. As long as I don't make contact, would prefer to use the smaller motor with the turbo.
This will be for a turbo setup. Looking to use the TEA Stage 2 Heads I have now which have a 2.04" intake valve. As long as I don't make contact, would prefer to use the smaller motor with the turbo.
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11-05-2017, 09:51 AM
#9
Nah, I want the stock 5.3L size. It works well with the T4 turbos I'm looking at. And if I decide to go ahead and get rid of my BeCool and MightyMouse Shroud, I'll swap over to the Griffin standup radiator with the MM Shroud for it. That'll make a lot of space for something like a BW S476 87mm compressor 1.25 A/R... that'd be 1000rwhp turbo all day. And would need a little more cubes...
The GM 3.622 prolly taps out around that 1000 horse range whereas the 4.8 has made as much as 1400. And if you're gonna "package" a T6 frame single; go 88mm from the get go and have enough steam to require laundry hanging off the rear bumper
11-05-2017, 12:25 PM
#10
Not going to package a T6. This isn't a drag car. I'm not doing a cage in it.
So a T4 is fine.
4.8L shortblock from the JY would be okay. But trying to find a 3.267" crank and 6.3" rods and all of that for a shelf 5.3L piston just pushes the price up for not real reason.
L33 or LR4 is what I was looking for. Found an LM7 block.
So a T4 is fine.
4.8L shortblock from the JY would be okay. But trying to find a 3.267" crank and 6.3" rods and all of that for a shelf 5.3L piston just pushes the price up for not real reason.
L33 or LR4 is what I was looking for. Found an LM7 block.
11-08-2017, 12:01 AM
#12
They are the ones LJMS sells. They are "shelf" custom pieces he and Tooley stock. 1.0/1.2/2.8 rings, H-13 .200" wall pins. $750. Hard to beat. Haven't bought them yet - since I can push this out to 3.9" bore. Just curious if my heads would work ok on the smaller bore since that's a good price for a shelf piston that does what I want.
However, I may just go with a 383... Molnar Rods and Crank and shelf Wiseco -15cc pistons. Would be a 10.2:1 motor. But then I'd need a 76/96 1.25 at least with a 4" downpipe for the turbo so it doesn't choke out. Problem is the BW stuff is so big. Trying to find something in a more reasonable package.
Found that Comp can do the CT43 cover with the CT5 94 turbine and the 76mm compressor in a T4 package with either a 1.15 or 1.32 A/R and 4" v-band for the turbine. That'd probably light off well on a 383 and make for a fun street car.
Decisions.
However, I may just go with a 383... Molnar Rods and Crank and shelf Wiseco -15cc pistons. Would be a 10.2:1 motor. But then I'd need a 76/96 1.25 at least with a 4" downpipe for the turbo so it doesn't choke out. Problem is the BW stuff is so big. Trying to find something in a more reasonable package.
Found that Comp can do the CT43 cover with the CT5 94 turbine and the 76mm compressor in a T4 package with either a 1.15 or 1.32 A/R and 4" v-band for the turbine. That'd probably light off well on a 383 and make for a fun street car.
Decisions.
11-09-2017, 07:39 AM
#14
I had to leave off idle/no boost then wait for the lag to disappear and "grow legs"
The torque made by that snail seemed to add an INCH to the crank....it was just awesome.
Hence why I say even a small short stroke LS with killer heads will still respond quick enough to dig race and the T4 will kick faster than my wrong sized big one
It would just make for such a street friendly and fun as hell combo IMO
11-09-2017, 03:54 PM
#15
What turbine did you have on the 475? The 83?
So here's the current plan...
Engine
5.3L punched out to 3.903 local shop doing the machine work
Molnar Forged 3.622 Crank and Turbo Rods
Wiseco -11 Pistons &.200" H13 Pins
Clevite H-Series Bearings
ARP Mains and Head Studs
Improved Racing Crank Scraper, Windage Tray, & Pan Baffle
TEA Stage 2 LS6 Heads 62cc (9.8:1 CR) w/PAC 1904 shimmed for 170lbs
LS9 Gaskets
LJMS Stage 2 Turbo Cam 226/231 .605"/.598" 113+4 LSA
Johnson Short Travel Lifters and Manton 11/32 Pushrods
FAST 102 and NW102 TB
Turbo Setup
Custom Fabricated Cold Side 3" with Fabricated Bell 24x12x6 Intercooler & LPS AlphaLoc Connectors
Custom Fabricated 321SS Hot Side T4 w/2.25" Crossover designed to Clear A/C (although the Huron Speed A/C Kit is tough to beat on price)
Custom Fabricated 4" Downpipe to my current 3" True Duals w/UltraFlos
Huron Speed Oil Line Kit
Turbosmart Hyper-Gate 45
Turbosmart 50mm Race-Port BOV
BMR Turbo K-Member
Griffin Aluminum 55241-X Radiator Stood Up
MightyMouse Griffin-X Stand-up E-Fan Shroud w/SPAL 16" and 9" Puller Fans (want puller vs Pusher - by setting the turbo where I want can do this)
Custom A/C Lines and Condenser to clear Hotside
Fuel & Ignition
Bosch 95lbs Fuel Injectors
Squash Dual Walbro 267 Fuel Pump Setup w/Wiring Harness
Nasty Performance Stage 3 -8/-6AN Line Kit w/Billet Fuel Rails
IGN-1A Ignition Coils & FireCore50 Plug Wires & BR7EF Plugs
Transmission
Upgrade to the FLT Level 7 w/Rossler Trans-Brake
FTI SRLS0391-3 3600 Stall Triple Disc FI Torque Converter
Turbo
And finally... the turbo... from Forced Inductions. Just need to figure out which one will work the best. Want to spin to 7K. But don't want boost to come on at 5500 since it's still a street car. So want a fun street car.
Thinking the billet 76mm wheel... and either the 92 or 96 turbine with the 1.25 a/r T4. I think we can package that off to the side of the motor up high where the ABS block was. The 4" downpipe out the back will be the fun part. If I do the cast, the 83 or 87 might work... but the billet brings things on a little faster so the 92 or 96 may work (and will carry the power further).
My fabricator also said look at the Garrett GT4508R 1.28 A/R T4... it's smaller than the BW turbos... and pricing is pretty close between the billet stuff. It's an 80/87 turbo (also has a 1.44 A/R - or can use a Tial Stainless Compressor housing with a 1.30). Would necessitate a move to a 3.5" cold side but is a 4" down pipe as well.
Looking for about 900rwhp on 93+meth. And I know there's plenty of ways to get there with a JY 5.3... but I'm just reusing what I have and doing a pretty reliable setup.
So here's the current plan...
Engine
5.3L punched out to 3.903 local shop doing the machine work
Molnar Forged 3.622 Crank and Turbo Rods
Wiseco -11 Pistons &.200" H13 Pins
Clevite H-Series Bearings
ARP Mains and Head Studs
Improved Racing Crank Scraper, Windage Tray, & Pan Baffle
TEA Stage 2 LS6 Heads 62cc (9.8:1 CR) w/PAC 1904 shimmed for 170lbs
LS9 Gaskets
LJMS Stage 2 Turbo Cam 226/231 .605"/.598" 113+4 LSA
Johnson Short Travel Lifters and Manton 11/32 Pushrods
FAST 102 and NW102 TB
Turbo Setup
Custom Fabricated Cold Side 3" with Fabricated Bell 24x12x6 Intercooler & LPS AlphaLoc Connectors
Custom Fabricated 321SS Hot Side T4 w/2.25" Crossover designed to Clear A/C (although the Huron Speed A/C Kit is tough to beat on price)
Custom Fabricated 4" Downpipe to my current 3" True Duals w/UltraFlos
Huron Speed Oil Line Kit
Turbosmart Hyper-Gate 45
Turbosmart 50mm Race-Port BOV
BMR Turbo K-Member
Griffin Aluminum 55241-X Radiator Stood Up
MightyMouse Griffin-X Stand-up E-Fan Shroud w/SPAL 16" and 9" Puller Fans (want puller vs Pusher - by setting the turbo where I want can do this)
Custom A/C Lines and Condenser to clear Hotside
Fuel & Ignition
Bosch 95lbs Fuel Injectors
Squash Dual Walbro 267 Fuel Pump Setup w/Wiring Harness
Nasty Performance Stage 3 -8/-6AN Line Kit w/Billet Fuel Rails
IGN-1A Ignition Coils & FireCore50 Plug Wires & BR7EF Plugs
Transmission
Upgrade to the FLT Level 7 w/Rossler Trans-Brake
FTI SRLS0391-3 3600 Stall Triple Disc FI Torque Converter
Turbo
And finally... the turbo... from Forced Inductions. Just need to figure out which one will work the best. Want to spin to 7K. But don't want boost to come on at 5500 since it's still a street car. So want a fun street car.
Thinking the billet 76mm wheel... and either the 92 or 96 turbine with the 1.25 a/r T4. I think we can package that off to the side of the motor up high where the ABS block was. The 4" downpipe out the back will be the fun part. If I do the cast, the 83 or 87 might work... but the billet brings things on a little faster so the 92 or 96 may work (and will carry the power further).
My fabricator also said look at the Garrett GT4508R 1.28 A/R T4... it's smaller than the BW turbos... and pricing is pretty close between the billet stuff. It's an 80/87 turbo (also has a 1.44 A/R - or can use a Tial Stainless Compressor housing with a 1.30). Would necessitate a move to a 3.5" cold side but is a 4" down pipe as well.
Looking for about 900rwhp on 93+meth. And I know there's plenty of ways to get there with a JY 5.3... but I'm just reusing what I have and doing a pretty reliable setup.
Last edited by JakeFusion; 11-09-2017 at 04:09 PM.
11-09-2017, 04:53 PM
#16
Just got my Huron V3 AC kit hot side mocked up to clock the turbo and drill and tap the oil lines. It's definitely money well spent; especially if you were to wait a few months for their Group Purchase.
This is my first turbo application, so I went cheap and rebuilt a little SBE 4.8L and used a cheap 7875 turbo from VS Racing. This way if I mess something up and hurt the motor or turbo, I'm not out a bunch of money like if it were a forged shortblock and a badass turbo.
This is my first turbo application, so I went cheap and rebuilt a little SBE 4.8L and used a cheap 7875 turbo from VS Racing. This way if I mess something up and hurt the motor or turbo, I'm not out a bunch of money like if it were a forged shortblock and a badass turbo.
11-09-2017, 04:59 PM
#17
TECH Senior Member
Sort of a "proof of concept" build. Good idea!
11-09-2017, 05:05 PM
#18
That is a good idea. And thanks for the picture. That might the best pic I've seen of the Huron kit.
The cost of the Huron kit is very attractive.
I would spend the money on their Bell Intercooler though. And in talking to Jon (who is awesome btw), he was steering me toward a Comp CT43 7875 as a way to just sort of put it together and forget it. Would be good upto about 800rwhp as well.
But there's something about building exactly what you want if you can. Especially if the budget isn't crazy out of control.
The cost of the Huron kit is very attractive.
I would spend the money on their Bell Intercooler though. And in talking to Jon (who is awesome btw), he was steering me toward a Comp CT43 7875 as a way to just sort of put it together and forget it. Would be good upto about 800rwhp as well.
But there's something about building exactly what you want if you can. Especially if the budget isn't crazy out of control.
11-09-2017, 08:20 PM
#19
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Pop quiz —
If you put a 4.8L crank in a LS7, you have how much displacement? I got 5.7. All bore.
Consider boosting that?
If you put a 4.8L crank in a LS7, you have how much displacement? I got 5.7. All bore.
Consider boosting that?
11-09-2017, 08:41 PM
#20
If I did that bore, I'd do a 388... And then twin 67s would be a lot of fun. And now I have $60k in a car worth 9k LOL.
I'm also seeing folks with S475s and 83 wheels 1.10 getting really good responsiveness on a 5.7L and still carrying to 6500. But it looks like that'd be better for 700-750 at moderate boost levels with fast light off. So maybe I start there and then push to the S480 96 1.25 and go for 1k down the line...
I'm also seeing folks with S475s and 83 wheels 1.10 getting really good responsiveness on a 5.7L and still carrying to 6500. But it looks like that'd be better for 700-750 at moderate boost levels with fast light off. So maybe I start there and then push to the S480 96 1.25 and go for 1k down the line...