I thought it would be good time for another check in... In time we will move all of the project car articles into their own archive.

Back to the supercharged project.

A lot of decisions have been made with respect to parts selection. To recap the car is a 98 Formula that has been raced for a few years and went 11.02 at 3550 raceweight with an iron block stroker from ARE.

I hope that by April 1st the longblock and the transmission will be ready to install into the Firebird. The plan is to make the car drivable so we can easily move it around as we continue on with the buildup of the car.

So stage I is basically the engine, exhaust, and transmission...

ENGINE
Displacement: 348ci (bored .005 over)
Block: 02 LS6 bare crate block from GM
Crank: Stock crank but cryoed
Rods: Eagle 6.126 with ARP L19 rod bolts
Pistons: Diamond 9:1
Bearings: Federal Mogul
Oil Pump: ported OEM
Cam: FMS blower cam
Heads: Stage II 6.0 heads from Chris Gelineau formerly of Katech
Compression: 9.1:1

EXHAUST
Headers: Not yet picked but need to be 1.875 full lengths or bigger
Catback: Will run dual exhaust terminating at axle, no X-pipe no room with torque arm

TRANSMISSION
Transmission: Turbo 400 most likely by FLP, will have reverse manual valvebody and a transbrake, good for 1000hp
Converter: TCS Phoenix Super Pro, ~5000 stall
Shifter: B&M Pro Ratchet
Cooler: B&M 19,000 gvw

Differential
I already have a 31 spline Moser with a soft locker but we will pull out the 4.11 and swap in a 3.50 but I will do that later, I might even run the car with the 4.11 since I might go to a 29" tire.

SUPERCHARGER
Blower: Vortech YS trim, Vortech crank balancer and pulley (8"), Vortech 3.12 blower pulley
Intercooler: Custom air to water intercooler by Sikora Precision

FUELING
Injectors: 83 lb Siemens
Fuel Rails: billet rails by Sikora Precision
Fuel pump: Weldon 2025
Tank: Speed Inc. drag tank

TUNING; PCM
PCM: 99 pcm and harness
Controller: new controller that we are evaluating

I'll add more info tomorrow and take some pics over the weekend, showing the car in it's current state and pics of the parts.

I can tell that I need to get headers I really need them by the beginning of next month.

This pcm controller which is not FAST is intriguing but I'm not sure if it's got all the features we need for the car, more on that tomorrow...

 

John, get a gen 7. You have one of the best tuners in the country right in your back yard, Jobe Spetter. He's a gen 7 whiz, I'm sure he could get that baby to run to it's maximum potential.

 

Using a Gen7, which I am not sure is out yet, will require that use of either a crank trigger or an adaptor box to convert the crank signal... $350 for the box from Cartek. I don't have room for a crank trigger.

I would also need to use an EDist box otherwise I cannot control timing... another $350.

I have friends running FAST's on LT1 cars and they have all gone deep in the 9's so I know what I need from the box... I need:
1) low impedance drivers
2) provision for 3 bar map sensor
3) provision for wideband
4) easy tuneability
5) a system that will help work with, around or eliminate the MAF

The box that I am going to try is specifically for LS1's. I am not sure if it will address 4 and 5, but it will address 1, 2 and 3 for sure.

If you give me a contact for Gen7, a manufacturer contact, I will find out what's available and discuss it.

My box if it works will also cost a lot less than FAST or DFI but heck it might not be as affective I'm willing to try it and move on if it does not address all of the needs of the blower setup.

Keep it coming!

 

John I used the ATI damper on my car with an MSD flying magnet and a custom pick up mount. The reluctor ring bolts directly to the front of the Damper right out of the box. I did'nt think about the fact that your gonna have a mondo blower belt smack dab in the middle of the way though. It just seems to me that tunabilty should the be the focus. I'm sure you will evaluate the "box" before you get too far into things.

<small>[ March 19, 2003, 09:13 PM: Message edited by: KECHME ]</small>

 

what intake will you be running: LS6, holley, sheet metal?

 

John, have you contacted Kooks about your headers ?
Just a thought.
<img border="0" alt="[USA]" title="" src="graemlins/patriot.gif" />

<small>[ March 20, 2003, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: JayLS1-327 ]</small>

 

This box that I will evaluate is made specifically for the LS1 so right off the bat I like it... But if it does not serve all my needs I will not keep it. I should have the box within the next two weeks.
--
LS6 intake for now, but have a lead on a custom cast aluminum intake but I will baseline with the LS6 intake which is an excellent intake.
--
Kooks is on the list, they make a 1.875/2.000 step that is intriguing.

 

What are your targets mph wise?

I would consider running a 28x10 W inch tire and a 4.11 gear.
With tire growth of only .5 inches (you would likely grow over an inch to 1.5 inches) you would be good for 155mph @7500rpm.

With 5% converter slippage you are looking at: ~148-150mph depending on growth at the big end @7500rpm. (which would be ideal if you are going with a 7000-7200rpm shift point)

Also I would get a spool in the car ASAP <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

If you are restricted for a Ypipe I think a set of bullets off the collectors would be ok for the limited street driving you will be doing (ie: running the car up on the trailer hehehe)
and just run extensions at the track <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Cheers,
Chris

<small>[ March 20, 2003, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: Chris ARE 360 ]</small>

 

John I'm going to build a similar motor for my Z28, only rather than waste all that time and money on a blower I'm going to run a $1000 direct port N2O system.

Want to place a friendly wager on who runs 9s first? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

You don't need a DP to runs 9's...plus, $1000 is THAT realistic for a complete DP kit. Just run that wet/dry setup you had on a built 346...that will get you there.

 

IF you do not run a crossover (X, H, or Y) you need to run merge collectors. You're just giveing up ponies without em.

 

The NOSzle setup has been out for a while, email Chicago Z06 here is a pic of Wes' setup... I think it's $1400 and you would need a few parts I would imagine I think you should budget $2000 for a decent DP setup.

https://ls1tech.com/psjpics/pages/Z0610.7.02%20004.htm
-----------------
Back to the topic, I am also thinking about running a 29x11.5x15 slick... But I don't want to run 7400-7500 thru the traps I don't have data on whether my hydraulic setup can take that... I will be running Crane double springs since my cam is 600 lift but I'd like to keep the rpms at 7000-7200 thru the traps initially.

I hope to run mid 140's almost immediately and then creep up on 150 mph.

Terry, let's get $20 bux.

 

What rpm are you planning on having peak power?

You'd ideally want to cross the traps around 300-400rpm past your peak power rpm.

I thought your were planning to shift around 7200rpm that is why I did the calcs with 7500rpm.

Stock lifters are going to be iffy at 7000+rpm

Cheers,
Chris

<small>[ March 20, 2003, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: Chris ARE 360 ]</small>

 

John you're on for the $20. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

You'll need a solid roller BTW. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

We took my 422ci up to 7400 a few times and it did not have any problems.

I plan to run about .010 lifter preload and the springs will take it.

I will cryo the crank once it is balanced (I still need the number to that place in Rolling Meadows).

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
You don't need a DP to runs 9's...plus, $1000 is THAT realistic for a complete DP kit. Just run that wet/dry setup you had on a built 346...that will get you there.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That wet/dry setup only cost me around $400 back in the day. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> $1000 might be a little low for a direct port setup but even if I spend $1200 I think its worth it. I've always wanted to try a decent N2O system and I figure this is the time to do it.

Maybe I'll run a $250 used 175 shot NX kit until NOS/NX comes out with that direct port system that plugs in under your fuel injectors.

 

ARE has an awesome custom DP setup. Should get in touch with Wade/Barry. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Cheers,
Chris