Un - fuc*&ing believable
11-28-2017, 04:17 AM
#1
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Un - fuc*&ing believable If anyone was wondering how long an LS lasts with finger tight rod bolts, the answer is about a quarter mile.
Bought this long block from a reputable guy locally, all the machine work was done by a good company in town and I guess he did the assembly.
Got her swapped in, fired up. Was in the process of seating the rings when I heard the most awful metal on metal noise. Never lost oil pressure, shut her down and towed her home.
Pulled the motor, pan and found this.
Every bearing had spun in the rod journal, with only one spinning to the point of overlapping.
I'm aware the thing to do is pull the crank and all the rods to get them inspected. Anyone have any advice beyond that? With the bolts being SO loose I'm hoping the damage to be minimal.
Thanks,
Jordan
Bought this long block from a reputable guy locally, all the machine work was done by a good company in town and I guess he did the assembly.
Got her swapped in, fired up. Was in the process of seating the rings when I heard the most awful metal on metal noise. Never lost oil pressure, shut her down and towed her home.
Pulled the motor, pan and found this.
Every bearing had spun in the rod journal, with only one spinning to the point of overlapping.
I'm aware the thing to do is pull the crank and all the rods to get them inspected. Anyone have any advice beyond that? With the bolts being SO loose I'm hoping the damage to be minimal.
Thanks,
Jordan
11-28-2017, 08:49 AM
#2
The big ends of those rods need to be Resized since the bolts were changed. They torque differently and change the shape Usually only takes a few honing strokes and don’t always need to be taken out to the .002” over dimension that bearings are available for. Your crank still looks decent so get the rods checked. New bearings and reassemble. Double check ring gaps, location and direction. Don’t assume they did that right either.
11-28-2017, 08:59 AM
#3
That's painful to look at, but at least it's all fixable. Like AR said, you should have those rods resized .002" larger and that should fix the problem. Clevite used to have a bearing for that, PN 1776, but I think it's been replaced by something else.
11-28-2017, 09:05 AM
#4
Remove, disassemble, inspect, replace what is needed, reassemble, install, enjoy.
I would do those steps in order to prevent anything else from happening. Then I would make a phone call to this guy who did the work and ask for his recommendations. If in fact he is a "Reputable" guy then he should help you out physically and financially. If not then you know what to tell anyone wanting to know about his work.
Crank looks OK but I would give it a polish, that is time well spent.
Chad
I would do those steps in order to prevent anything else from happening. Then I would make a phone call to this guy who did the work and ask for his recommendations. If in fact he is a "Reputable" guy then he should help you out physically and financially. If not then you know what to tell anyone wanting to know about his work.
Crank looks OK but I would give it a polish, that is time well spent.
Chad
11-28-2017, 10:50 AM
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The big ends of those rods need to be Resized since the bolts were changed. They torque differently and change the shape Usually only takes a few honing strokes and don’t always need to be taken out to the .002” over dimension that bearings are available for. Your crank still looks decent so get the rods checked. New bearings and reassemble. Double check ring gaps, location and direction. Don’t assume they did that right either.
These bearings are P/N CB1776A, which KCS and the Clevite catalog state are for connecting rods with housing bore resized .002" larger than stock.
Will do everything else recommended, thanks for that. On the verge of paranoia over here now.
11-28-2017, 12:23 PM
#7
Sadly, this is not the first time I have seen this on an LS engine. I fixed an LS2 with a Blower that was like this.
Those look like the ARP 234-6301 rod bolts.
Katech used to recommend you should burnish the rod bolt threads by torquing the new bolts 3 times at a lower torque value before doing the final full torque value.
In my opinion it's not a bad idea to do on the arp rod bolts as well. It would insure the rod and cap are fully seated
Those look like the ARP 234-6301 rod bolts.
Katech used to recommend you should burnish the rod bolt threads by torquing the new bolts 3 times at a lower torque value before doing the final full torque value.
In my opinion it's not a bad idea to do on the arp rod bolts as well. It would insure the rod and cap are fully seated
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11-28-2017, 12:31 PM
#8
That sucks.
Looks like you got lucky and it could have been extremely bad, catastrophic bad if you were running WOT down the road/track.
Hope it's all salvageable with minimal issues.
Good luck.
Looks like you got lucky and it could have been extremely bad, catastrophic bad if you were running WOT down the road/track.
Hope it's all salvageable with minimal issues.
Good luck.
11-28-2017, 01:34 PM
#10
I knew a guy with a low 10 second AMC, builder did the same thing but it lasted a few passes then kicked a rod @ the end of the pass.
Driving through the oil with 14 32s on the rear scared the hell out of him so afterwards he did all his own assembly & never was cheap on lower end parts
Driving through the oil with 14 32s on the rear scared the hell out of him so afterwards he did all his own assembly & never was cheap on lower end parts
11-28-2017, 07:29 PM
#11
Worked on a new CJ5 8 cylinder long time ago, had a funny noise in the bottom end. Pulled the pan off and one rod the bolts were never torqued down completely. It also had a bad exhaust seat in one of the heads. Sheeet happens.
11-28-2017, 10:14 PM
#12
Sadly, this is not the first time I have seen this on an LS engine. I fixed an LS2 with a Blower that was like this.
Those look like the ARP 234-6301 rod bolts.
Katech used to recommend you should burnish the rod bolt threads by torquing the new bolts 3 times at a lower torque value before doing the final full torque value.
In my opinion it's not a bad idea to do on the arp rod bolts as well. It would insure the rod and cap are fully seated
Those look like the ARP 234-6301 rod bolts.
Katech used to recommend you should burnish the rod bolt threads by torquing the new bolts 3 times at a lower torque value before doing the final full torque value.
In my opinion it's not a bad idea to do on the arp rod bolts as well. It would insure the rod and cap are fully seated
Been living for 3 years with weekly blasts to 7000+...
11-29-2017, 09:48 AM
#16
Sorry to see this man. I recently bought an engine from a guy and had it all buttoned up and ready to go in. Something told me to pull the pan and make sure the rod caps were tight. Low and behold, one of the rod caps were hand tight. The guy must have pulled one piston to look at the bearings and never tightened it back up.
11-29-2017, 10:07 AM
#17
Hate to say it but **** like this is why I started to prefer to use a used engine over a rebuild when I've nuked them in the past. I've been a tech for 20 years and have had far more bad experiences with rebuilds than used engines. Sad you can't trust people and have to double check their work, especially on something so simple as tightening bolts or checking clearances. Best of luck, hope the damage is just some bearings and a hone on the rods.
11-29-2017, 11:13 AM
#18
Hate to say it but **** like this is why I started to prefer to use a used engine over a rebuild when I've nuked them in the past. I've been a tech for 20 years and have had far more bad experiences with rebuilds than used engines. Sad you can't trust people and have to double check their work, especially on something so simple as tightening bolts or checking clearances. Best of luck, hope the damage is just some bearings and a hone on the rods.
11-29-2017, 11:57 AM
#19
TECH Senior Member
Too bad to say it, but it looks like it's gotta be SOP to re-torque all bolts upon receiving a "new" short or long block from just about anyone nowadays...
