SonicFury

iTrader: (3)

Here's my goals for my 02's winter build and the plans I've laid to achieve them after digging through the forum and a few calls to TSP and Tick Performance. See any issues or areas you would treat differently? Please make sure to include *why* if you do

Goals:
- 600-700WHP from a ProCharged LS1
- 93 pump gas summer cruiser
- Reliability above all else with driveability a close 2nd
- Lopey idle (not choppy)

Plan:
- Tick Performance 4" forged rotating assembly (K1 rods and crank, Wiseco pistons) (383CI... figured "why not" stroke a little if I'm already swapping the assembly)
- -8cc reverse dome 3.903 pistons (~10.5:1 CR)
- Stock cast 243 heads (Tick suggested that would be fine with my WHP goals, TSP suggested PRC 225cc as cast heads [68cc chamber])
- custom ground 233/239 115lsa cam and supporting valvetrain (TSP's recommendation to also get the lopey idle, expecting a procharger to push enough boost to overcome that overlap)
- FAST intake (not sure which one, or if porting would be worth the $) and ported TB
- D1SC w/ FMIC
- Upgraded injectors and fuel pump

Thank you in advance!!!

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

If this is an FI build, maybe post up in the FI section. Goal should be easy though.

SonicFury

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! It is indeed an FI build. I see you have a D1SC build yourself. What are you thoughts on using stock 243 heads to reach 6-700WHP?

Public Enemy

I would ditch a 383ci... You need that much torque for the street I would do forged pistons and rods with arp rod bolts, main studs and head studs.. A btr cam for procharger.. Some nice ID850x injectors and a good fuel pump system. 243 heads are fine for 700whp.

Dian

forget ported tb and maybe fast as well. invest the money into a good belt setup (8 rib and flip drive).

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Dont overthink a boosted setup. 243 heads are not required. With a stock bottom end, many people swap to 317 heads (243's with a larger CC), to drop the compression and run more boost. Keep it simple.

SonicFury

iTrader: (3)

Big thanks for the help, guys!! To give a little more detail, the plan is to do this in 2 phases: all engine work this winter, and then procharger (and re-tune) a few seasons later. That's part of the reason I was thinking a 383 would be nice - it's a little more tq to play with until the procharger comes 'round. Is it really that bad to have "too much" torque for a street application? It doesn't cost me any extra $$, I'm forging the internals either way.

Regarding 317 heads and a lower CR, I was looking at a ~10:1 for a couple reasons (I'm not super confident in my understanding of these):
- If my CR is too low, I could see dull performance for the few N/A seasons prior to installing the procharger.
- Low CR and extra valve overlap from a lopey cam don't play nice together.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a great setup. You ever wanna see how it does i'd love to run you next spring. I'm not far from you. I bet it would be interesting

SonicFury

iTrader: (3)

Hah sounds good... does seem like it would be a nice match-up!

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I think so too. Hard to find fellow f-body enthusiasts in my area lol

JoeNova

Ditch the stroker.
LS1s have issue with liner thickness. They are more prone to cracking than the other engines and you can't do much more than a light hone on them without causing issues.
When you stroke an LS1, you reduce the rod/stroke ratio, which means the rods will be at a greater angle at BDC, putting more side load on the cylinders on the up-stroke.

If it were N/A, it wouldn't be that bad. You're adding boost/heat.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Stock LS1 with good FI cam, LT headers, LS6 intake, bolt on etc is what a friend of mine needed to make 685 whp back in 2002 with a Procharger D1SC. That was with race gas and 12-14 pounds of boost. That was with stock 241 heads with valve spring upgrade.

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ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

For a 600whp built there's no downside to a 383 that's stroke based. Been there done that no issues. If it was turning really high Rpm or making 800whp or more okay, but 600whp is cake and torque is nice. Added stroke isn't required but it's whatever you want.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I agree.

I would do a stroker, or boost. There is nothing wrong with a stroker and boost but if I were going boost I would get all the power from the blower. And I'd keep the rest of the build simple and strong. NO NEED to upgrade the stock crank, it'll take 1k+ all day and night EASY.

And as far as torque goes, blowers = instant boost usually, that's one of the great things about them. The stroking just adds additional wear and weak points. It won't blow in a day but the stock stroke motor will last longer in regards to wear.

I would do nice forged rods and pistons, and use the forged crank money elsewhere. The stroker is great but if you want dependability and reliability as #1 then a stock rod angle (stroke) will be easier on the pistons/cylinder walls.

I would use the stroker crank money on better heads. You'll make more power at lower boost which keeps heat down and that's a major thing with boost. That'll keep heat down and reliability and efficiency up. I personally like the Trick Flow as cast 220 heads, the TSP as cast heads look really nice also. Both are excellent and unbeatable for the money. Both also have thicker deck surfaces which is great for boost and keeping the heads from lifting.

If you do the stock stroke thing with better heads and get ready for more power you can just turn it up. With the stock heads and stroker you'll likely want to make some changes if you decide to turn it up later.

Lastly, in all honesty a bone stock 5.3 will take 700 reliably. So that helps answer can you do it on 243 heads. You really don't need a billy bad *** built stroker motor for 700. If it were my money and I was gonna do a blower, i'd just do the blower. But I'm fine with the motor popping and throwing in another $500 motor, so my approach may be a little different lol.

SonicFury

iTrader: (3)

Yessss! Such great feedback from everyone thank you!!

Now let's say I target 9.5:1 with this winter build. Again, I'll be driving this motor N/A a few seasons and don't want it too soggy.. Should I be planning in a temporary set of different heads? Maybe just a thin gasket?