LS6 Rebuild Questions
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LS6 Rebuild Questions So I've got an 05 CTSV with the LS6 and T56 both stock of course. I had the front drive pulley bolt slowly back itself out, and then the pulley popped off. The bolt stayed barely in the end of the crank and completely wasted the crankshaft. So it obviously needs a crank, and new front seals. At this point im wondering whats the bear minimum that I need to replace for a crank swap? I'm most likely going to be selling the car as soon as its running again so I'm not trying to make it a big power build by any means. I just need to get it back to its stock glory.
Thanks for any help or ideas.
Thanks for any help or ideas.
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From: PDX-OR-USA
Focusing on basic pull and replace,,
If there is shrapnel inside the motor its a full tear down flush the block and new bearings for crank and rods depending on what you find inside..
If there is nothing in the oil pan, its a new crank and bearings, don't even have to take the heads off..
"Completely wasted" is a relative term.. Did it hurt the timing cover?
The are suppliers engine builders use to buy "core" hard parts, crank, oilman gasket set and bearings that match a clean crank and its back in play..
If there is shrapnel inside the motor its a full tear down flush the block and new bearings for crank and rods depending on what you find inside..
If there is nothing in the oil pan, its a new crank and bearings, don't even have to take the heads off..
"Completely wasted" is a relative term.. Did it hurt the timing cover?
The are suppliers engine builders use to buy "core" hard parts, crank, oilman gasket set and bearings that match a clean crank and its back in play..
A new crank, maybe bearings, and lower end gasket kit unless like pdx said youve got shrapnel in pan etc.
Our complete rebuild kits run $699 and only DONT inlcude lifters rods and crank ans cam. New crank with matching bearings runs $450 from us.
Our complete rebuild kits run $699 and only DONT inlcude lifters rods and crank ans cam. New crank with matching bearings runs $450 from us.
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So yeah, my bad completely wasted wasnt a great explanation there, it basically just destroyed the threading and opened up the diameter at the front section of the threading, I dont mind buying a fresh crank so Im not going to mess with trying to fix/re-thread the stock one. Not a whole lot else looks to have taken any damage. Hopefully the oil comes out without shavings or debris.
On the off chance I end up deciding to keep the car after I put this work into it (needs trans rebuild as well), is there anything that I should be doing while Ive got the motor out? like just good maintenance thatll be easier while its out of the car, something to get out of the way? It's got 75k on the clock so Im not sure what needs doing. Nothing power adder or crazy expensive but something that if I do it will most likely end up as a favor to the next owner?
On the off chance I end up deciding to keep the car after I put this work into it (needs trans rebuild as well), is there anything that I should be doing while Ive got the motor out? like just good maintenance thatll be easier while its out of the car, something to get out of the way? It's got 75k on the clock so Im not sure what needs doing. Nothing power adder or crazy expensive but something that if I do it will most likely end up as a favor to the next owner?
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okay I just googled Heli-Coil, did not know that existed, and thats super cool. Ill have too look into that once ive got the motor out, if nothing else is wrong that could be an option. Thanks for the tip!
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If the engine has less than 100k miles, just repair as needed and move on. If approaching 200k or more, consider a new oil pump, lifters, rocker trunnion kit, and both front and rear seals. There might be more to do, but this is a start.
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Yeah, ill only be pulling the motor if I find metal shavings in the oil, hopefully not the case, and bbond im way to attached to the thing to sell it now lol Its looking like Im going to end up keeping it as well, so Im probably going to throw a cam in it while I have the front of the motor accessible. Whats a decent idea for a cam if im not ready to put head on it yet? nothing insane, just to wake up the motor a little bit.
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Something like a 212/218, .550/.550, 112LSA will make it feel good and won't need different springs, being it's an LS6 with a .550+/- lift cam already. Just a little gain in duration and tightening the LSA will make a bigger difference than you think.
Sometimes when that bolt backs out, it will allow the pulley to spin and tear up the OD of the snout. When that happens, you lose the press fit and have to replace the crank, so that's something you may want to check.