When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
200 shot at approx 3650lbs (that's with me in the car) on the combination listed in one of my posts above... I've changed things up considerably since then.
228/232 .600 112 lsa work on bone stock 853 heads without having to add springs etc etc ??? I dont want to touch the heads , just slide in cam and get a tune
i got a A4 , longtubes , ory pipe into gibson muffler & ls6 intake , slp lid & stock 10 bolt rear end , can i just slide in a 228/228 .600 112 lsa cam , without ******* anything up ?? Or do i Haaaaave to do springs , chain , oil puml etc etc , ???
Because the pushrods and springs are considered part of the cam swap. It's almost a given that you upgrade the lift over stock cam specs, and therefore you absolutely need new springs. If you want everything to maintain proper geometry, then you probably grabbed a pushrod checker and ordered the correct pushrods. Unless you want to do it again, do it right.
You can still be stock+cam with new springs and pushrods, I promise.
Davidboren beat me too it. One of my cars is stock long block with the 853 heads and a bigger cam than that. But with pac .660 dual springs,tsp one piece seat/seals. 7.4push rods and titanium spring retainers. Plus straub trunion bushing kit. So yes I have stock heads/Block. Being cheap is expensive! if you just slid that cam in with nothing more than stock springs you'd be just asking for TROUBLE.......
if you didnt know you needed springs with that size of a cam then you might have a bigger problem then just springs lol might want to give that "just sliding it in" idea a 2nd thought and maybe pay a shop to do the work
BUUUT if you do need some springs i have a brand new set of TSP 660 lift polished dual spring kit for sale.
Last edited by Blackbird-WS6; 06-06-2019 at 10:42 PM.
I'll be putting this cam in with an ls6 intake and true duals this spring on my T-56 with 3.42 rear, I'll update after I hit the dyno with it.
Well, took a bit longer than I was anticipating but came back with 399hp and 351tq. Only other mod besides the intake and exhaust is a ported TB. This was on my 2000 Firehawk.
I'm running that cam and I love it. one thing to consider is at low speeds/rpm when the torque converter locks up you can feel the cam surging. I would go with a 3600 stall as well.
That can be easily fixed by changing the TCC lock up table
Livinhocky, what headers and exhaust did you go with?
So stock heads? 399 seems pretty good. How does it drive at low rpms?
‘Any bad bucking? Mpg differences?
I'm curious to see what the OP did regarding this.
On my current build, this is the exact cam I'm going to be going with. However, I'm also going to be adding aftermarket heads and such as well. As everyone else already mentioned, changing out the springs and pushrods (hardened/chromoly) is a MUST. Otherwise you're just going to bind your coils, lock up the valves and end up breaking a lock/retainer and dropping a valve or two. All that because you didn't "feel" like replacing the springs. Yes, it can be a pain in the ****, but what is more of a pain in the **** is now pulling the entire engine to replace pistons and rods (and maybe even the crank) because you bound up and dropped a valve or two. :-/
Thank you to those that posted videos. LOVE the sound of that cam and I'm glad others have guided my way towards that cam. I definitely won't be in the low 10's like you are, allblackedout5, but I'm looking towards mid 11's or so.
04-26-2019, 10:19 AM
I definitely won't be in the low 10's like you are, allblackedout5, but I'm looking towards mid 11's or so. 