Bent reluctor wheel
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Georgia
Bent reluctor wheel Sorry if this question sucks, but it seems rather important. I just got my rotating assembly back from the machine shop and started assembling the bottom end. I put the crankshaft in and gave it a few turns and noticed that the reluctor wheel was rubbing on the main cap. Seems that 1 spot is out of whack. Is there a gentle, yet effective way to fix this or am I looking at getting a new reluctor wheel installed?
You can lightly bend it back, but I would advise against praying against the cap to do it. You would want to have the crank out of the block and use 2 flat pieces of steel and squeeze them together over the small bend to spread the clamping force evenly.
The rings are an interference fit. (.007 if I remember correctly). You don’t want that ring to budge on its mounting surface. I had one come bent on an aftermarket crank and replaced it with a new factory one. It spun because the new one turned out to only be .003 interference fit. I since upgraded to a billet wheel that is welded to the crank.
If you can fix the bend, put a dial indicator on it and spin the crank to check the runout. There is a safe range of wobble that it can have before the sensor will give sporadic readings and you will be pulling it apart again. You will have to look that spec up because I just don’t remember it.
http://www.engineprofessional.com/ar...Q415_56-62.pdf
This article says more than .002 runout and to replace it, I think the factory max is .010, but someone will correct me, I will see if I can look it up.
The rings are an interference fit. (.007 if I remember correctly). You don’t want that ring to budge on its mounting surface. I had one come bent on an aftermarket crank and replaced it with a new factory one. It spun because the new one turned out to only be .003 interference fit. I since upgraded to a billet wheel that is welded to the crank.
If you can fix the bend, put a dial indicator on it and spin the crank to check the runout. There is a safe range of wobble that it can have before the sensor will give sporadic readings and you will be pulling it apart again. You will have to look that spec up because I just don’t remember it.
http://www.engineprofessional.com/ar...Q415_56-62.pdf
This article says more than .002 runout and to replace it, I think the factory max is .010, but someone will correct me, I will see if I can look it up.
Last edited by BlackDuk98; Feb 14, 2018 at 11:33 AM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
I have absolutely no experience with this sort of problem, however if it were my engine I would take it back to the machine shop and have a new wheel installed.
If it is a crank and reluctor wheel that you plan on never changing, you may just want to upgrade to a billet wheel and have it tacked onto the crank and have them rebalance it. Shop I used rebalanced the crank for free when I had him replace the wheel. I think Callie’s now come standard with billet wheels. Then you don’t have to worry about it ever spinning off. Some people had problems with new factory ones made in Mexico. Didn’t have the correct interference fit as I mentioned above.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Originally Posted by BlackDuk98
If it is a crank and reluctor wheel that you plan on never changing, you may just want to upgrade to a billet wheel and have it tacked onto the crank and have them rebalance it. Shop I used rebalanced the crank for free when I had him replace the wheel. I think Callie’s now come standard with billet wheels. Then you don’t have to worry about it ever spinning off. Some people had problems with new factory ones made in Mexico. Didn’t have the correct interference fit as I mentioned above.
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Gonna buy a effin crapo plain jane boring please shoot me I'm so boring to drive car soon and forget about having any fun with my pants on. Hope you get someone who can help you. Good Luck