degree cam or not..........
Split Overlap Measurement Hi BMW, the best cam timing is set WHEN the Inlet/Exhaust valves ARE at the same LIFT when the piston is at TDC.
A Piston TDC happens TWICE per cycle, once at Firing AND the other at Overlap.The Crower Cams camshaft is sell is ALWAYS measured, a Cam Doctor tool, AFTER the grind is finished, every lobe. This report is provided at purchase as do many cam manufactures ALSO supply.
The measurement is SIMPLE AND I will state the method :
1. Install the timing chain lower sprocket at the 2* advance for your Comp #54-441-11 selected camshaft. (112 C/L)
2. FIND TDC #1 & #6 cylinders BY measuring the two pistons next to each other AT equal distance from the deck.
3. Measure the lifters in #1 & #6 for distance from the deck finding them at equal distance will STATE Split Overlap as is suggest by Comp Cams at 112* I/C.
I always do this FIRST before I fit a Degree Wheel.
The quality cam grinder should provide good product though to check this we "degree" each lobe.
Myself, in my many years of cam installation (Crower Cams) I have never seen one NOT at specification.
I have often found TIMING CHAIN SETS with INCORRECT reference marking.
I truly doubt that members here will express "tech" to do ANY JOB in poor fashion.
Lance
A Piston TDC happens TWICE per cycle, once at Firing AND the other at Overlap.The Crower Cams camshaft is sell is ALWAYS measured, a Cam Doctor tool, AFTER the grind is finished, every lobe. This report is provided at purchase as do many cam manufactures ALSO supply.
The measurement is SIMPLE AND I will state the method :
1. Install the timing chain lower sprocket at the 2* advance for your Comp #54-441-11 selected camshaft. (112 C/L)
2. FIND TDC #1 & #6 cylinders BY measuring the two pistons next to each other AT equal distance from the deck.
3. Measure the lifters in #1 & #6 for distance from the deck finding them at equal distance will STATE Split Overlap as is suggest by Comp Cams at 112* I/C.
I always do this FIRST before I fit a Degree Wheel.
The quality cam grinder should provide good product though to check this we "degree" each lobe.
Myself, in my many years of cam installation (Crower Cams) I have never seen one NOT at specification.
I have often found TIMING CHAIN SETS with INCORRECT reference marking.
I truly doubt that members here will express "tech" to do ANY JOB in poor fashion.
Lance
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Biggest issue with degreeing a cam is, what do you do if it's off.
If all you have is a stock style timing set, you can't change it. You buy it, you jam it in, you measure it, it is what it is. All you're really doing in that case is the final quality control for the cam mfr. IOW you discover they efffed it up, you send it back and get another one; or, it's what it's supposed to be, so you run it. That's pretty much the limit of your possibilities.
That said, you can NEVER (well, almost never...) measure things too much. Short of paralysis by analysis. Never hurts to know that it's dead on, a bit off this way or that, or whatever, even if you can't change it.
OTOH if you CAN change it, i.e. if your timing set has adjustment built into it, then it's basically stupid NOT to degree, and use that info to make it RIGHT.
I would add, Pantera's method is the old racer's trick we've all used forever, to keep us out of the weeds. Pretty reliable. While not "accurate" or "absolute", it's plenty close enough to prevent catastrophe. Different cam designs will affect it slightly, but in NO case should it ever be too much different from what he said.
If all you have is a stock style timing set, you can't change it. You buy it, you jam it in, you measure it, it is what it is. All you're really doing in that case is the final quality control for the cam mfr. IOW you discover they efffed it up, you send it back and get another one; or, it's what it's supposed to be, so you run it. That's pretty much the limit of your possibilities.
That said, you can NEVER (well, almost never...) measure things too much. Short of paralysis by analysis. Never hurts to know that it's dead on, a bit off this way or that, or whatever, even if you can't change it.
OTOH if you CAN change it, i.e. if your timing set has adjustment built into it, then it's basically stupid NOT to degree, and use that info to make it RIGHT.
I would add, Pantera's method is the old racer's trick we've all used forever, to keep us out of the weeds. Pretty reliable. While not "accurate" or "absolute", it's plenty close enough to prevent catastrophe. Different cam designs will affect it slightly, but in NO case should it ever be too much different from what he said.
Last edited by RB04Av; Mar 2, 2018 at 06:53 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Avon Gear Timing Set Hi RB, thanks as my age is 65 years with some "old school" tech remembered.
My method is to fit an Avon Gear timing set with billet/heat treated sprockets.
This is more common to users who race, one such is NASCAR GN West LS "spec" race engines.
The timing chain is the strongest of ALL LS chains AND each pin has an oil hole location !
Lance
My method is to fit an Avon Gear timing set with billet/heat treated sprockets.
This is more common to users who race, one such is NASCAR GN West LS "spec" race engines.
The timing chain is the strongest of ALL LS chains AND each pin has an oil hole location !
Lance