Going with an OEM replacement would probably be the cheapest. Although getting something like a GT2-3 from Lingenfelter would also be a very stealthy and rewarding option.

As a matter of fact that might be better than the other two options. It might Dyno for maybe 5 to 10 less horsepower but who cares. Chances are you may not even see the difference even at the track. It would sound and drive just like stock but make probably an extra 30 or so peak horsepower, and more torque everywhere compared to stock. It would make power probably up to 5800-6200 rpm. Depending on heads and intake.

 

Gonna look into that cam, never heard of it. Interesting.

 

May I ask why you don't want to replace the converter?

 

i don't want nothing to affect the driveability. My main goal is to have a car that is modded without being able to notice it, want to beat coyotes and 392 mopars without them saying yeah u got a cam and all this other stuff. Even though I will have it but they won't be able to tell.

 

If you really want to surprise them, and be totally inconspicuous, slap on a small shot of nitrous. The switches are easily hidden and there is no whine or whistle like with a blower or turbo. Plus it will be far cheaper and with way more power. Can't beat this route

 

I would just like to slap on a ls3 if I had the funds. A friend has a 6.2 out of a escalade 2014 I believe, gonna look into that option also.

 

The Escalade will have the truck manifold on it, and a different cam than the LS3. Plus VVT and DOD.

 

No intake, just the short block. Gotta take care of all that vvt stuff(cam and dod). But he’s only asking $600 for it. But by the time it’s installed and running, I’m not sure how much I’d be in it money wise.

 

I'm surprised you popped your rear with those mods, a lot of people have the 10 bolt live with autos. I had a SS3800 stall and pulled 1.6 60 ft times on slicks and radials and beat the **** out of the car for years (every single day) on a 10 bolt. I did eventually break some bolts in the factory diff and swapped it out for an auburn.


OP you could get the same gains from some minor head work that you're looking for and avoid the need for a stall.

I know you don't want a stall, but the difference is night and day and better than a cam without a stall.


Just tossing stuff out there.


Pantera EFI knows this stuff well too, and could likely help you with this venture.

 

The fact of the matter is you don't have to be stealthy in order to honorably beat these new cars on the road. Where are using 20 year old technology and cars that have well over a hundred thousand miles on average. There is no shame in meeting to install a cam and stall to beat these guys as a matter of fact you can laugh at them while you do it because you spend a fraction of the price to beat their brand new technology.

 

So you want to beat cars with a "stock" car that has no chance of beating them if it really is stock, so you want these people to believe it's stock but yet it's faster than stock..

I gotta ask.. why??? This has always baffled me as to why people do this. I've only met a couple of people that want to do a build like you are and I've never asked. What's the point? It's going to be obvious you're lying, and that's why I don't get the point of it.

Your best bet if you want to bs people is to do headwork on the stock heads and have the porter not shave the factory casting numbers off so the heads look stock. Do that and a mild cam and a worked over LS6 intake.

A small undetectable stall would go a long *** way too. You'll need some real tires on it also. The 10 bolt will hold fine.

 

Why....I guess I like the look of amazement or disbelief. It depends on where u live too. It’s a small county here. I know most of the people who are driving these cars that i stated, never had a chance to even drive a ls1, they just see it as an old *** camaro. I beat a rt challenger that just was like totally depressed after he lost, that’s what I’m going for. I could pop the hood with ls6 intake and 243’s and 99% of people here wouldn’t know what they were looking at. Now if they saw a AFR casting or a nice FAST symbol, that would be different.

 

Some people have no idea another stock car is capable of beating their car. Especially the guys around here.

 

I see you're from Imperial Valley, I was born there in 78 and moved to NV when I was 2. My parents just went down there a few weeks ago for a reunion, they probably know your family lol.

Anyways,
I'd really listen to some of the suggestions posted. Have you every been in a street car with any type of stall? If not, I can guarantee it's nothing like you'd imagine. It will wake up your performance in every way and it's not something that's bolted onto the top of the engine...

 

Gotcha. Well I think even if you have some expensive parts on it they're still gonna be upset that they lost to an older/less expensive car. But your car your thing.

If you really want to upset them beat them in a 4 cylinder lol. I used to have an integra and one point it had a healthy shot of nitrous (direct port wet kit) and at another point it was turbo. I used to go camaro and corvette hunting in it a lot, those guys get really mad when they get pulled by a 4 cylinder.

I think for you a mild cam, milled heads with some bowl work and a valve job, LS6 intake, and a stall with sticky tires would blow their minds while keeping the car really docile and low budget too.

You could do bolt ons, a stall, and pull some weight out of the car and kill them and call it bolt on only.

 

Hello KbronSS,

Those two cams are both very mild. The difference between them is what we call "overlap". This is the period of time that both the intake valve and the exhaust valve are open at the same time.



What that means for you is that the 222/226 on 113 camshaft will make more power, but have less idle vacuum and will require a more expensive valve spring.

The 218/224 on 116 camshaft will make less power, but drivability and idle will be just like stock. It will have near stock idle vacuum and use an inexpensive GM performance valve spring.

So, it just depends on what you want. The 218/224 on 116 camshaft is typically used by those who are doing a rebuild or repairing a failure as a nice step up. It is only about 20HP stronger than stock, so not sure if it is worth all that work for just that much power gain.

For guys who want to maximize the stock torque converter, I have ground a 220/226 on 114+4 with .595" lift for them. It makes good power and does not fight the stock torque converter at idle.

But, like a lot of guys have said, a higher stall torque converter opens up more possibilities. It just depends on what YOU want for your car.

 

He wants a stock sounding car to beat the other guys yet refuses to put an aftermarket converter in it which will do more for him in terms of performance than any drive able street cam and not change his sound at all. He could blame the roaring exhaust note on his exhaust!! I don't get it.

 

I’ll def be in contact with u guys, actually I already have and that’s how I was referred to the stge3. I’m just trying to get as much info as possible all the way around.

Bspeck82 I know I know lol it’s hard to understand what I’m trying to do. Why not just mod the hell out of it since I’m opening it apart? It’s kind of like asking why not use drags and 4.11’s....I don’t want that type of car. At least not now. That’s also the reason I was thinking of buying that 6.2 I mentioned. I might be lost on torque converters too, gonna research more on them too. ALL INPUT IS APRECIATED, it’s all good

 

Not everyone wants some drag car rolling around on drag wheels and a huge lopey cam with tons of fuel smell all the time. Much the same that some people hate the way a stalled auto car drives. I fall into the same category as the OP and understand the logic. I would be okay with a larger cam since my car is a 6 speed but if it was an auto I would refuse to do a stall because I have never been in any car that didn't feel like garbage because of one. Doesn't matter the brand, from cheap to stupid expensive, they all suck IMO and sound like a slipping trans. I wouldn't want to put up with it every day.

 

Well alright then man. Mine drives fine with a cam and converter. Yes it smells and is loud but that's the nature of the beast and can be avoided with Cats and a MagnaFlow/aerochamber catback.