Need help comparing two small cams
New LS-7 Camshaft/LS-9 Camshaft Hi Bron, I work with TurnKey Engines, Colby, in OUR AREA.
The cost of a NEW can from GPMM is $100.00 + (LS-7/9)
The "take-out" from Colby, a "crate engine" take out could be as NEW ?
The LS7/9 cam specs are very close to what you ask for AND the other ones "teched-in" with respect to engine performance, the main difference for your needs is just the cost.
Lance
The cost of a NEW can from GPMM is $100.00 + (LS-7/9)
The "take-out" from Colby, a "crate engine" take out could be as NEW ?
The LS7/9 cam specs are very close to what you ask for AND the other ones "teched-in" with respect to engine performance, the main difference for your needs is just the cost.
Lance
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100 bucks wouldn't be a bad deal. I'd also get a ls6 oil pump off Amazon, ls2 timing chain, ls7 lifters and trays and pushrods. Just for peace of mind. You could also do the trunion upgrade but idk if it's necessary. Up to you.
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Hi Bron, I work with TurnKey Engines, Colby, in OUR AREA.
The cost of a NEW can from GPMM is $100.00 + (LS-7/9)
The "take-out" from Colby, a "crate engine" take out could be as NEW ?
The LS7/9 cam specs are very close to what you ask for AND the other ones "teched-in" with respect to engine performance, the main difference for your needs is just the cost.
Lance
The cost of a NEW can from GPMM is $100.00 + (LS-7/9)
The "take-out" from Colby, a "crate engine" take out could be as NEW ?
The LS7/9 cam specs are very close to what you ask for AND the other ones "teched-in" with respect to engine performance, the main difference for your needs is just the cost.
Lance
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,758
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The problem with the LS7 & LS9 cams are that they will make less power than the stock LS1 camshaft all the way to nearly 4500 RPM. This will make a car with stock torque converter very lazy. The LS7 cam was designed for 427 cubic inch and the LS9 cam is for a supercharged engine. A good aftermarket camshaft will outperform the LS7 and LS9 cams across the board.
A small stall would be stealthy. I've had a very tight stall and a loose stall. The tight stall knocked about 2 tenths off my 60 ft and et which was okay and you really couldn't tell it was there.
The 3800 stall knocked another 2 tenths off my 60 and 5 tenths off my 1/8th mile et and you could really tell it was there, came out of the hole real hard and was a lot of fun but it slipping all the damn time was kind of annoying, but personally I didn't care I wanted the fun that came with it.
I would go with the cam cam motion is recommending and something like a 2800-300 stall if you want to be stealthy and still have some advantage of a stall
People are recommending the stall so much because you have no idea the difference it makes in an auto until you do one. It ends up being one of those "how did I live without this" "holy **** I should have done this first" "holy **** this is badass" things.
Sticky tires are a must with a stall though. Auto F bodies are turds out of the hole and in some cases will barely spin the tires, with a stall it's a tire smoking machine.
The 3800 stall knocked another 2 tenths off my 60 and 5 tenths off my 1/8th mile et and you could really tell it was there, came out of the hole real hard and was a lot of fun but it slipping all the damn time was kind of annoying, but personally I didn't care I wanted the fun that came with it.
I would go with the cam cam motion is recommending and something like a 2800-300 stall if you want to be stealthy and still have some advantage of a stall
People are recommending the stall so much because you have no idea the difference it makes in an auto until you do one. It ends up being one of those "how did I live without this" "holy **** I should have done this first" "holy **** this is badass" things.
Sticky tires are a must with a stall though. Auto F bodies are turds out of the hole and in some cases will barely spin the tires, with a stall it's a tire smoking machine.
Wide L/C Camshaft Hi Bron, I too agree with the UNDER 4500 RPM report by Cam Motion.
YOUR request was a D/D design with much time spent with the engine being throttled.
The wide C/L LS-7 camshaft LOVES high compression.
YOUR engine should IDLE at 600 RPM, (LS-7 Cam) good for the OEM converter.
The "tech" here is quality though YOU could restate your requirement for Daily Operation ?
Lance
YOUR request was a D/D design with much time spent with the engine being throttled.
The wide C/L LS-7 camshaft LOVES high compression.
YOUR engine should IDLE at 600 RPM, (LS-7 Cam) good for the OEM converter.
The "tech" here is quality though YOU could restate your requirement for Daily Operation ?
Lance
Just did a 01 camaro with a stock bottom end. Put stock 5.3 heads on to bump compression, 220r cam and a trailblazer torque converter. Pretty fun little setup. Original plan was the low lift stg 2 cam from Ws6store but was out of stock $349, autozone converter Dacco part number B85VJCX $165 and 5.3 heads $150 with valve job. So $665 plus gaskets and fluid and it's pretty fun. Idle set at 700 and pushes no more than stock cam and converter, the highest I got it to flash before breaking tires loose was 2600. I'd recommend this setup to anybody, gave up nothing and gained across the board.
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Verdad Gallardo Just did a 01 camaro with a stock bottom end. Put stock 5.3 heads on to bump compression, 220r cam and a trailblazer torque converter. Pretty fun little setup. Original plan was the low lift stg 2 cam from Ws6store but was out of stock $349, autozone converter Dacco part number B85VJCX $165 and 5.3 heads $150 with valve job. So $665 plus gaskets and fluid and it's pretty fun. Idle set at 700 and pushes no more than stock cam and converter, the highest I got it to flash before breaking tires loose was 2600. I'd recommend this setup to anybody, gave up nothing and gained across the board.
On The Tree
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You want stealth, keep engine stock except add a LS6 intake, headers and quiet mufflers (magnaflow), install a Yank 3600 stall or Circle D 3600. Junk the stock diff, install a 9" with 3:90 to 4:11 gears and sticky tires and then install a GOOD quality NOS kit with a progressive controller, purge valve, heater and run a 150 shot. It will run hard on the bottle and still be a DD easily. This would be the cheapest way to go fast and still be stealthy.
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You want stealth, keep engine stock except add a LS6 intake, headers and quiet mufflers (magnaflow), install a Yank 3600 stall or Circle D 3600. Junk the stock diff, install a 9" with 3:90 to 4:11 gears and sticky tires and then install a GOOD quality NOS kit with a progressive controller, purge valve, heater and run a 150 shot. It will run hard on the bottle and still be a DD easily. This would be the cheapest way to go fast and still be stealthy.
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From: White Bear, Mn
OP a small cam and Ls6 intake only is not going to beat new Camaros, Coyotes and Mopars.
If you want stealth do full exhaust with a 4000 stall and when they ask what you have done just say exhaust only. They are not going to pull your transmission to look at your converter and with 3.73's it will drive tight enough that the average door **** that just drove off the lot thinking he is king won't even be able to tell.
Those two mods will give you a 12 flat car.
I kinda sorta get your stealth idea....I guess.....
But I like winning. And with the setup in my sig I do not lose. Especially from a stop light. These guys running around in 500 hp new cars don't realize they are heavier, going no where with the factory pizza cutters on back, no stall and lots of torque management no matter what the commercial looks like or says.
If you want stealth do full exhaust with a 4000 stall and when they ask what you have done just say exhaust only. They are not going to pull your transmission to look at your converter and with 3.73's it will drive tight enough that the average door **** that just drove off the lot thinking he is king won't even be able to tell.
Those two mods will give you a 12 flat car.
I kinda sorta get your stealth idea....I guess.....
But I like winning. And with the setup in my sig I do not lose. Especially from a stop light. These guys running around in 500 hp new cars don't realize they are heavier, going no where with the factory pizza cutters on back, no stall and lots of torque management no matter what the commercial looks like or says.
Last edited by 98CayenneT/A; May 28, 2018 at 04:13 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Imperial Valley, CA
OP a small cam and Ls6 intake only is not going to beat new Camaros, Coyotes and Mopars.
If you want stealth do full exhaust with a 4000 stall and when they ask what you have done just say exhaust only. They are not going to pull your transmission to look at your converter and with 3.73's it will drive tight enough that the average door **** that just drove off the lot thinking he is king won't even be able to tell.
If you want stealth do full exhaust with a 4000 stall and when they ask what you have done just say exhaust only. They are not going to pull your transmission to look at your converter and with 3.73's it will drive tight enough that the average door **** that just drove off the lot thinking he is king won't even be able to tell.
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If you really want Stealth do the converter as the others suggest and the following full exhaust with pretty much any cam that 230/236 or less. A good set of ported 243/799/LS6 heads and an LS6 intake with the 90mm snout. The key to hiding the combo is the exhaust and tuning to avoid lope.
Get a good long tube header 1 7/8 primary and Muffler Y pipe 3 inch that goes to 4 inch reducer, electric cut out at the end of the Y pipe. Use an SLP Dual / Dual catback. It's super quiet and normal rpm of daily driving.
In 15 years exact two people that were both hard core car guys were able to tell my 99 TA had a cam. My LS6 intake, heads and cam with no cats TA was quieter at idle than my wife's stock 02 Z28 with factory exhaust and a flow master muffler. I was told many times the wife's stock Z28 would kick the TA's *** by the muffler car experts.
My 91 RS has the same type of SLP Dual / Dual catback. I've been told a dozen times I need to put a cam in that stock LS1. The RS has an LS1 383 stroker with TEA 2.5 heads, LS6 90mm intake and 229/229 cam etc. The car is tuned to idle smooth and lope as little as possible. Quiet a few 5.0's and 5th SS owners have got their feelings hurt. No one has picked up on the cam by listening so far.
Standard procedure is to burn them with the cut out closed. Then when they want more to open the electric cut out / cut outs - but only after turning that hidden shot of NOS on that was mentioned above...the purge can even dump into the intake track so there isn't a give away puff....
I've never got around to setting up the NOS for the RS but that was the original idea.
All in good fun.
Get a good long tube header 1 7/8 primary and Muffler Y pipe 3 inch that goes to 4 inch reducer, electric cut out at the end of the Y pipe. Use an SLP Dual / Dual catback. It's super quiet and normal rpm of daily driving.
In 15 years exact two people that were both hard core car guys were able to tell my 99 TA had a cam. My LS6 intake, heads and cam with no cats TA was quieter at idle than my wife's stock 02 Z28 with factory exhaust and a flow master muffler. I was told many times the wife's stock Z28 would kick the TA's *** by the muffler car experts.
My 91 RS has the same type of SLP Dual / Dual catback. I've been told a dozen times I need to put a cam in that stock LS1. The RS has an LS1 383 stroker with TEA 2.5 heads, LS6 90mm intake and 229/229 cam etc. The car is tuned to idle smooth and lope as little as possible. Quiet a few 5.0's and 5th SS owners have got their feelings hurt. No one has picked up on the cam by listening so far.
Standard procedure is to burn them with the cut out closed. Then when they want more to open the electric cut out / cut outs - but only after turning that hidden shot of NOS on that was mentioned above...the purge can even dump into the intake track so there isn't a give away puff....
I've never got around to setting up the NOS for the RS but that was the original idea.
All in good fun.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; May 28, 2018 at 04:26 PM.