222/226 597-598 113 vs 218/224 553-553 116+3
Far from a cam expert. I’m basically looking for a DD cam that I can drive without needing a stall. Drive Traffic, be able to go on trips also. I might do a small stall later on but I don’t want to be forced into one. I was looking into the 228r but not sure if that would be too big. All I’m gonna do to the car is ls6 intake/lt’s/lid/243’s and a tb(don’t know which one yet).

 

Is this going in that 2000 Z28 listed at the bottom?

 

None..

go with the TSP 228. Its about the smallest cam i would run. Definitely do the stall. Go with a 4000. I daily drive my circle d 5C. No problems at all.

 

I would talk to who your gonna have tune it and get their take on it. The 218/222 would be easier to run with a stock converter

 

I'd do the converter first man, I know you want the sound but the converter will do more good for you than a cam. And tuning won't be necessary just to drive around town. (although you will need one if you want to go romping on it) I have circle D's budget 278mm 3200 stall (450$ and tell him you heard about him through Matt happel of sloppy mechanics for a discount) it works wonderfully. Can't tell it's there at all untill you mash it. I have a 222/228 cam and has a noticeable lopey idle but isn't crazy. Makes tons of mid range power. Great cam for an everyday driver and would be even better if you sneak in some spray in the future. I'd get a 9" under it before adding any power. Ask me how my 10 bolt experience was...

The 228r is a great cam, it will make a little more up top and a little less down low compared to the other two cams. You could daily it no probs but would take more gear to be comfortable. At least 3.70s and a quality 3600 stall. Just call the cam manufacturer and tell them what you want. They will gladly school you on what works and why.

 

Yes it will be going on the 2000 z28. I'm not looking for "best cam" options. I want the biggest cam I can go with, without needing a stall. I'm not looking for lope, the more sleeper the better. But I don't want a hot cam or ls6 cam either.

 

Well if you insist on stock converter I'd run this
http://www.cammotion.com/camshafts/mild-performance-ls-camshafts/mild-performance-ls1-cams-5-7/ls1-stage-3-camshaft-218-224-16-3/

But you really, really should look into a converter. It will give more gains than a cam will.

 

Simply speaking camshaft lope is a product of valve overlap. The easiest way to get an idea of how a cam will idle is to look at valve overlap at .050

The​​​​The formula is: ((intake duration + exhaust duration) / 2) - (2 X LSA).

So my camshaft has 222 intake duration and 228 exhaust duration at 113 LSA. This comes out to -1 at .050. The cam I recommend for you if you are running a stock torque converter will have -11 degrees of overlap at .050. So your camshaft will have a slight hint of chop to it but with the right exhaust choice it can easily be hidden to the untrained ear. I recommend either a MagnaFlow or hooker aerochamber catback if you wish to have a stealthy Idle.
​​

 

It would sound similar to this guys.

 

The one u recommended is actually one of the ones I was asking about. I’m kind of set on that one until I saw the eps baby cam and since it’s not much bigger I was curious as to how much of a difference that would be from cam motion stage3.

 

228R is a great DD cam with the stock vert

 

No... stop it. You are not going to run a 228r with a stock converter.
Which other EPS cam are you talking about can you send the link?

 

Oops I see you have it in the original post. They will be a very minor difference. You can drive the EPS cam with a stock converter, although that is about as big as I would comfortably go. You wouldn't notice a difference between those two cams. The EPS cam should make a bit more power.

 

To be completely honest i would skip the whole cam idea unless you do a stall along with it. I would spend it on something else in that case. Thats just me though

 

FACT!

Not sure why you would do all that work for a small cam.
Again, i wouldnt go any smaller than the TSP 228. Its been a proven performer forever on here.

best advice i can give you OP, is to keep your setup simple..

 

I'd skip both and get a proper rear end.

 

I see why and what everyone suggests. But I’m not building a race car by any means. Let’s just say I’m wanting to “wake up” an ls6. That’s why I’m adding the 243’s and ls6 intake only. I can go on and on with mods but it’s just not my goal. Other than 3:73 gears, I’m keeping the stock rear.

 

I know what you are trying to do. I did the same thing. I had a 180k mile LS1. Everything on the car was bone stock minus some bilstein shocks. I added an ls6 intake, 799 heads, 222/228 cam, 3200 converter, headers and exhaust. Aftermarket torque arm, LCA, PHB and SFCs made 390 wheel and 370 torque. The moment I put some real tires on it, i kid you not, after one launch, I blew up the ring and spider gears.

 

Hi Bron, the 2nd cam spec would be my choice.
The SIMPLE FACT that this is VERY CLOSE to a OEM LS-7 Camshaft would allow you to "find" a Take Out for a cost of UNDER $100.00.
The LS-7 camshaft has a L/C of 121 which is BETTER for your stated use.

I too could supply a different camshaft, just check my site Panteraefi.com

I could do an EAP model of ANY of your cam profiles ?

Lance

 

You lost me after u stated it would be your choice lol
I wasn’t sure if I should say who the cams are from but oh well...
It’s EPS BABY CAM and CAM MOTION Ls1 STG3
I want the cam brand new, if by take out you mean used.