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Valve job and bowl work are done all for 100 bucks.
You will be able to get some additional flow if the valve guide area is ported. Again how much is hard to say and I'm not a professional by any means. If they gave you that kind of deal maybe they would be willing to give a similar deal to get them fully ported.
Last edited by LLLosingit; Apr 11, 2018 at 03:18 PM.
You will be able to get some additional flow if the valve guide area is ported. Again how much is hard to say and I'm not a professional by any means. If they gave you that kind of deal maybe they would be willing to give a similar deal to get them fully ported.
Ya I'm hoping I can get another smokin deal, it's just they don't even have the 5 axis cnc yet when they were suppose to get it last month. I keep bothering my buddy about when it's coming in and yesterday he said like 2 weeks maybe so I'm hoping it comes soon before I start tearing into my motor.
I'm not experienced with massaging heads but would there be any value in going in at the runners with some sand paper rolls and dremel to smooth it out a bit? I'd be too worried I'd screw up to do a full diy head port.
I wouldn't worry about it really and I would never recommend someone use the only heads they have as a first try or heads that just had a nice valve job done. Some people don't have the skill or patience to slowly remove material and take time to blend everything. The idea isn't to just go in and remove material but to massage radiuses to improve flow without hurting velocity. There's only so much you can do without a flow bench to test your results.
You can smooth out any really rough area's/ridges but you don't want a really smooth or polished type finish. I just posted that picture for you to get an idea what a good port job will look like. Compare those two pictures and you can really see how flow would be improved in that area without opening up the port itself.
I wouldn't worry about it really and I would never recommend someone use the only heads they have as a first try or heads that just had a nice valve job done. Some people don't have the skill or patience to slowly remove material and take time to blend everything. The idea isn't to just go in and remove material but to massage radiuses to improve flow without hurting velocity. There's only so much you can do without a flow bench to test your results.
You can smooth out any really rough area's/ridges but you don't want a really smooth or polished type finish. I just posted that picture for you to get an idea what a good port job will look like. Compare those two pictures and you can really see how flow would be improved in that area without opening up the port itself.
I mean I have the set of 806s that will be coming off the motor I'll be able to practice on but I don't know how long I'll want the motor to be sitting on the stand so I can work on the runners of two sets of heads
Never hurts to practice for the next time. There is some work you can do easily and you can tape off the valve seats to protect them. You're really not going to see huge gains from it but as long as you just do some blending you're not going to hurt power.
Some gains can be had with port matching the intake/exhaust to the heads, I've done it many times on SBC and BBC aluminum intakes/heads but haven't looked to see if it's needed on any of my LS based engines.
I wouldn't recommend any real portings on in.or ex.runners, to burr some sharp edges in flow might be ok, but for more, there is manual skill needed and what about making each runner the same like the other in volume and shape, thats very difficult by handish make...
I was wondering the same thing if it would be porting or not. After going through numerous threads, everyone always has gains from the porting.
Porting for sure helps but if you're balling on a budget a valve job and bowl work gains more hp to your dollar. I know the valve job and bowl work I have yields about 25 hp on a cam car and at the non discounted price it's $300
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