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That looks like the box mine came in. The black one, from amazon. I love mine and have no complaints. I'd be very, very surprised if speedmaster actually put the ones in the black box out. Also, customblackbird, I wouldn't take a wire wheel to the studs. I think that's just an invitation to further corrosion issues in the future...
I'm by no means a chemistry expert or anything, but I was an airframer for years and very regularly dealt with corrosion prevention and control. I've taken several, several classes at NADEP , the regulating authority on aerospace maintenance, and have been told several times that if you have surface rust, as much as you'd like to take it off to make it look pretty, just leave it alone. That surface rust is as bad as it's ever gonna be, but if you take a wire wheel to it then it'll get worse after you put it in the head and let those two dissimilar metals meet and greet.
My advice would be to spray a solvent on them and just wipe off what you can.
Hi BB, I find it VERY ODD that a "white box" packaging was sold/shipped by Speedmaster !
This is WHY I started the Counterfeit remarks as Speedmaster ALWAYS uses their own Branded Boxes.
The White Box does not break a law.
YOU stated a DIRECT PURCHASE from ???
NOW I agree with that "OLD Geezer" remark, "cheep junk" in the right stud pictured.
MY OBSERVATION is an E-BAY purchase, then a BAD RAP about a Smeedmaster product due the the Part # on the WHITE Box !
Lance
Yes. I purchased these DIRECT from SPEEDMASTER! It was an website purchase from them directly. I have the invoices to prove it, and all the paperwork. They admitted to a machining problem on some sets which is why they are replacing them even tho it was 6 months ago from date of purchase.
Yes, speedmaster and procomp are the same. If u call and get put on hold the recording talks about procomp products etc.
Its a moot point wether or not anyone will run them or not. My thread started as a help why are all my studs not going into my block. Called and found out they had a defective batch that were machined wrong. These things happen and it happens with American brands too. More people run these than you think, they also push them really hard and have no issues. It solves 3 problems for me.
1.) only $75 for a full set of studs (this is a $500 Engine with computer and harness and it has a $50 LQ9 cam in it) I’m not going to spen $300+ on ARP studs when stock head bolts can handle boost.
2.) they are reusable. Stock replacement are not and I don’t like to be sitting there waiting for bolts. Also piece of mind instead of reusing stock bolts.
3.) equal clamping force of stock head bolts. I’ve pushed stock head bolts with 150k on them to 12psi and no problems. If these hold as well as them I’m game. Plus they take the stress off the block threads which is always good.
Speedmaster corrected my problem and fit my budget. I will install and report back if any snap. But I doubt it as I’m only going to 65ftlbs.
Yes, they are the cheap Chinese garbage that held up to 1000whp just fine for months for denmah. If you want to spend money, go ahead. If you want to go fast, these will work. One bad batch isn’t representative of their product. Comp cams also has had bad batches of cams, lifters, reunions, etc. cam motion has given me the wrong cam before, circle D put my stall too tight then fixed it. Human beings make mistakes. If they fixed it for free and the studs stand up to abuse greater than you’ll ever see, then what’s the problem again?
Just wanted to update this. I installed them the other night and all is well. Cranked them down to 65ftlbs on the big studs. The small ones were a tad on the short side so I pulled them out about 3 turns or so so the nut grabbed all the threads and Tq those to 22ftlbs.
Now i gotta box up and send the defective ones back to procomp.
3.) equal clamping force of stock head bolts. I’ve pushed stock head bolts with 150k on them to 12psi and no problems. If these hold as well as them I’m game. Plus they take the stress off the block threads which is always good.
This isn’t actually the case. The chinese studs have been tested against the stock bolts and ARP studs and the results were posted. The chinese studs had the lowest tensile strength. Compared to the OEM bolts, the chinese studs would actually produce LESS clamp load.
Hi KCS, as we all have seen in THIS post, there is more than one China manufactured head stud to choose from.
The tensile test I read here at LS-1 Tech found the OEM Bolt VERY CLOSE to the tested China Stud in strength.
PLEASE post the test you quote ?
The best part of this thread may be to know there are many stud/bolt manufactures AND each can choose their material specification.
Correct KCS, the difference between the two was minimal and thus I said equal. Remember the bolt is being Tq’d to its yield point and thus not reused where as the stud is not. The difference was 700lbs and 3000lbs clamping. See attached screen shot of the thread as it was an attachment or something.
Correct KCS, the difference between the two was minimal and thus I said equal. Remember the bolt is being Tq’d to its yield point and thus not reused where as the stud is not. The difference was 700lbs and 3000lbs clamping. See attached screen shot of the thread as it was an attachment or something.
Tensile and Yield strengths are not the same as clamp load though. The OEM bolts are marked as a grade 10.9 material, and the chinese studs tested were close enough to assume they too were probably manufactured as a grade 10.9 material as well.
The big difference is that OEM bolts are stretched to their Yield point and the studs are not, otherwise they wouldn’t be reusable. Since the OEM bolts are stretched further than the studs, they exert more force, aka clamp load.
Hi KCS, as we all have seen in THIS post, there is more than one China manufactured head stud to choose from.
The tensile test I read here at LS-1 Tech found the OEM Bolt VERY CLOSE to the tested China Stud in strength.
PLEASE post the test you quote ?
The best part of this thread may be to know there are many stud/bolt manufactures AND each can choose their material specification.
Lance
Interstingly enough, Speedmaser/Pro Comp says these studs are manufactured as 8740 and are said to be “rated at a whopping 190,000 psi”. Yet TSP had them tested showing significantly lower strength.
Fortunately they're still roughly the same as stock bolts, with the convenience of being reusable studs.
As far as mechanical properties, yeah they're roughly the same, but torque values for bolts and studs are usually intended to achieve 70-80% yield so they can be resused safely. That means the stus only achieve about 70-80% clamp load of an OEM bolt.
Just wanted to update this. I installed them the other night and all is well. Cranked them down to 65ftlbs on the big studs. The small ones were a tad on the short side so I pulled them out about 3 turns or so so the nut grabbed all the threads and Tq those to 22ftlbs.
Now i gotta box up and send the defective ones back to procomp.
Thats good to hear, I was a little concerned when you said you were going to tq to 70. Alot of the eBay head studs the seller don't recommend to go past 60
Hi ALL, I FIND some "tech" reports here VERY ODD and THE PICTURES PROVE the ERROR.
The "clamping load" tech ?
I KNOW the Bolt Pitch into the AL crankcase produces a LEVERAGE value read by the Torque Wrench (My read is from a Snap-On Dial-a-Beam)
THUS a "fine pitch" Nut on a Coarse Pitch block side stud WILL Have GREATER Clamping Force when BOTH values are read by my Snap-ON Tool.
Am I correct OR just a "dreamer" ?
I also ask, the Stud torque order first/last ?
Lance
Not necessarily true. In this case, we are comparing an OEM bolt which is tightened to it’s yield point. If you tighten the nut on a stud to the same torque value that causes the bolt to yield, then the stud could stretch just beyond yield where the clamp load would be less.
I tried to save some $$$ 
