Bent valves?
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Houston
Bent valves? I missed third and over revved my engine. I'm going to do a leakdown test tomorrow to test my valves. I checked my pushrods and they were ever so slightly bent(Aftermarket hardened). Anyone know a good shop in the houston area I can drop my heads off at and have the valves replaced in a timely manner if they are indeed bent? (Ls1 engine).
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Why not just buy a spring compressor (the giant C-clamp looking kind) and replace em yourself? If the seats are in good shape you can just lap new ones in. All you need is some valve grinding compound... the kind that's not much more abrasive than toothpaste, you don't want the kind that's like gravel.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Houston, TX
i know on the west side there is LME near beltway 8 and little york. they did some milling for me a few years back and was in and out in a day or so.
1930 Aldine Western Rd
Houston, TX 77038, United States
https://www.latemodelengines.com/
1930 Aldine Western Rd
Houston, TX 77038, United States
https://www.latemodelengines.com/
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Houston
I have trick flow 215 heads with tfs-16306-16 valve springs. 238/242 .605/.610 112lsa cam. I would like good lifters that wont fail if I miss a gear. Maybe a new spring lifter combination?
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Launching!
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Houston, TX
my guess is going to ether be
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/jo...st2126lsr.html
or
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/mo...r-lifters.html
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From: Houston
in my opinion you should call BTR and see what they think a good lifter would be but i know it is going to be a johnson or a morel lifter. one thing is you are going to need to measure each push rod length because all these have a smaller "sweet spot" of travel to handle the higher rpm. would also look into some of those tapered push rods for better rigidity if you can find them.
my guess is going to ether be
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/jo...st2126lsr.html
or
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/mo...r-lifters.html
my guess is going to ether be
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/jo...st2126lsr.html
or
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/mo...r-lifters.html
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2017
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Talk to Preston at lunati. If anything, he loves to sift out fact from bulls***. Then either buy from him or take the kowledge with you. I just had a lengthy conversation with him yesterday. Great guy.
I'd probably guess they would recommend a link bar style short travel lifter or an OE style short travel lifter, dual springs and steel retainers if it's driven daily. Oh, and measure for pushrods length and feth the thickest rod you can in it. I did not ask Preston but I am to believe a .120 wall should fit. You should find out. That's what I'd roll with when I get my heads done by TEA. Correct spring pressure and lifter preload is the most important thing here. This is why I would recommend consulting a cam vendor before purchase.
I'd probably guess they would recommend a link bar style short travel lifter or an OE style short travel lifter, dual springs and steel retainers if it's driven daily. Oh, and measure for pushrods length and feth the thickest rod you can in it. I did not ask Preston but I am to believe a .120 wall should fit. You should find out. That's what I'd roll with when I get my heads done by TEA. Correct spring pressure and lifter preload is the most important thing here. This is why I would recommend consulting a cam vendor before purchase.
IF you want a good hydraulic lifter, Johnson's short travels (I believe the part number is something like ST2126LSR) it takes a fair amount of work to set up correctly (you'll be buying several custom length pushrods) but set up correctly it's one of the best you can get. My valvetrain is quieter now than it was when the car was stock >>
Go 11/32/.120" wall Trend or IMO, Manton pushrods at minimum. but before you order them, get your lifters sorted out as well as your head gaskets as you'll be replacing those and measure every single spring with the good COMP pushrod checker and use calipers to measure each valve. Add you desired preload and contact the mentioned vendor(s) above and order them based on your measurements. Tell them how you measured them, too. Very important.
With the way you drive your car, you'll have a good proper sorted (And Quiet since done right) valve train and not have to worry about it for a long time.
Good luck.
With the way you drive your car, you'll have a good proper sorted (And Quiet since done right) valve train and not have to worry about it for a long time.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Houston
got the passenger side head off and called it a day. So far it looks like it's just bad lifters. No visible touch points between the valve and piston. I was told to put water on the valves and see if it holds or drips into the runners just to double check that they are sealing.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9yLA6arEAWE
Last edited by youguessit; Jun 10, 2018 at 02:07 AM. Reason: Stupidity
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
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From: Houston
there is mild scoring on the camshaft and I can barely feel super light smooth waves in the lifter roller contact surface. Looks like I need a new cam. I bought mine from g-force motorsports in houston. 238/242 .605/.610 at 112 lsa. I'm going to call and see if they still sell them. I'm short on funds and dont want to pay for a retune. I suspect my lifters have been going flat a while.... also from reading I've not been using good enough oil in the motor. So I'd say failure is from my mistakes.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
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From: Houston
I cant remember the head gaskets that are for larger bore engines that are also thinner for more compression. Anyone recall the part # or which vehicle it was for. I think it was for a 6.0 engine. Anyone remember?
