LS1 Oil Pump Options
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
LS1 Oil Pump Options I found a lot of threads about different oil pumps for the LS1 (stock/high volume/high pressure) but they were mostly older threads with part numbers I am not finding anymore. I wanted to make a current thread with the current oil pump options available.
I have a mostly stock 2000 Camaro Z28 automatic with 100k miles on it. I have read that the high volume/pressure pumps are not recommended without having a larger oil pan and is not needed unless you have a racing setup. I have not done the install so any links to videos or tutorials on installation would help.
Here are the current options I am finding and I am looking for a recommendation as there are a lot of options and it is getting confusing. I will also list the high volume/pressure pumps for other users who may want them.
Rockauto/Oreilly's:
Melling M295 - Standard volume and pressure $55
Melling M295HV - High volume (+18%) 'recommended for high mileage engines' $107
Melling 10295 - 'High performance', high pressure (+10%) $115
Melling 10296 - 'High performance', high pressure (+10%), high volume (+18%)
Summit Racing:
Summit Racing SUM-1221170 - Standard volume and pressure $70
Chevrolet Performance 12678151 - Standard volume and pressure $76
Chevrolet Dealership:
(Same as above) Chevrolet Performance 12678151 - Standard volume and pressure $115
For my stock setup I would plan on using the Chevy part or the stock Melling. What would you guys/gals recommend?
I have a mostly stock 2000 Camaro Z28 automatic with 100k miles on it. I have read that the high volume/pressure pumps are not recommended without having a larger oil pan and is not needed unless you have a racing setup. I have not done the install so any links to videos or tutorials on installation would help.
Here are the current options I am finding and I am looking for a recommendation as there are a lot of options and it is getting confusing. I will also list the high volume/pressure pumps for other users who may want them.
Rockauto/Oreilly's:
Melling M295 - Standard volume and pressure $55
Melling M295HV - High volume (+18%) 'recommended for high mileage engines' $107
Melling 10295 - 'High performance', high pressure (+10%) $115
Melling 10296 - 'High performance', high pressure (+10%), high volume (+18%)
Summit Racing:
Summit Racing SUM-1221170 - Standard volume and pressure $70
Chevrolet Performance 12678151 - Standard volume and pressure $76
Chevrolet Dealership:
(Same as above) Chevrolet Performance 12678151 - Standard volume and pressure $115
For my stock setup I would plan on using the Chevy part or the stock Melling. What would you guys/gals recommend?
Stock OEM pump with a fresh oil pump o ring is all you need, don't need a high pressure or high volume pump on a stock clearance bottom end ls1.
My OEM pump makes 50 cold and 30-35 hot and is fine. You don't need 50-60 psi hot
My OEM pump makes 50 cold and 30-35 hot and is fine. You don't need 50-60 psi hot
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
jetech: I can't find much online about adding a shim and porting. Are there any install guides to do this? I currently see a bout 20psi at a hot idle with the automatic. How much would a shim boost it?
Burken01: With the A4 automatic I have I only have about 20psi at hot idle and 40 on the highway; I read that that is normal but it seems low to me. I read someone say that the 2000 and earlier oil pumps are known to fail. I have also read that Melling pumps are better than the stock but I generally prefer to go stock..
Would you guys recommend replacing the timing chain at 100k miles? I see different brands for the chain also. Melling, GM OE, Cloyes.. I have read about people going with the double chain. Any recommendations from you guys?
Similar question on the water pump options... Looks like there is a later OE design with a different thermostat housing. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Burken01: With the A4 automatic I have I only have about 20psi at hot idle and 40 on the highway; I read that that is normal but it seems low to me. I read someone say that the 2000 and earlier oil pumps are known to fail. I have also read that Melling pumps are better than the stock but I generally prefer to go stock..
Would you guys recommend replacing the timing chain at 100k miles? I see different brands for the chain also. Melling, GM OE, Cloyes.. I have read about people going with the double chain. Any recommendations from you guys?
Similar question on the water pump options... Looks like there is a later OE design with a different thermostat housing. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 711
Likes: 6
From: PNW
Idle and warm pressure mean nothing - every oil pump can do that. What matters is pressure when it counts and that’s in the upper rev range. The stock pump cavitates. Never put a stock pump on there.
Originally Posted by 8.Lug
The amount of work required to change an oil pump - thats asinine to just put a stock one back in. If you have any plans to do anything with this engine besides daily drive it, the stock pump needs to go.
Idle and warm pressure mean nothing - every oil pump can do that. What matters is pressure when it counts and that’s in the upper rev range. The stock pump cavitates. Never put a stock pump on there.
Idle and warm pressure mean nothing - every oil pump can do that. What matters is pressure when it counts and that’s in the upper rev range. The stock pump cavitates. Never put a stock pump on there.
Myself, and plenty others do just fine on a stock pump.
Idle and warm pressure on a new o-ringed pump do tell what the upper rpm is going to read, pumps just don't fail like an on/off switch.
These engines don't really need 50-60psi at idle, or 80-90 at WOT. not a stock or bolt on car for damn sure.
I've seen a thing or two to form my opinion.
And no it isn't asinine, I can think of a lot dumber things guys do on here on a daily basis.
So go jump in another thread kid
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
jetech: I can't find much online about adding a shim and porting. Are there any install guides to do this? I currently see a bout 20psi at a hot idle with the automatic. How much would a shim boost it?
Burken01: With the A4 automatic I have I only have about 20psi at hot idle and 40 on the highway; I read that that is normal but it seems low to me. I read someone say that the 2000 and earlier oil pumps are known to fail. I have also read that Melling pumps are better than the stock but I generally prefer to go stock..
Would you guys recommend replacing the timing chain at 100k miles? I see different brands for the chain also. Melling, GM OE, Cloyes.. I have read about people going with the double chain. Any recommendations from you guys?
Similar question on the water pump options... Looks like there is a later OE design with a different thermostat housing. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Burken01: With the A4 automatic I have I only have about 20psi at hot idle and 40 on the highway; I read that that is normal but it seems low to me. I read someone say that the 2000 and earlier oil pumps are known to fail. I have also read that Melling pumps are better than the stock but I generally prefer to go stock..
Would you guys recommend replacing the timing chain at 100k miles? I see different brands for the chain also. Melling, GM OE, Cloyes.. I have read about people going with the double chain. Any recommendations from you guys?
Similar question on the water pump options... Looks like there is a later OE design with a different thermostat housing. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Regarding shimming of reliefs...every pump as a spring in it that regulates the pump output pressure. If you pull the spring out and add a shim washer behind it, you are effectively compressing the spring more requiring a higher output pressure to crack it. In other words, your pump pressure gets a slight boost. I can't tell you the thickness of the shim without getting a feel for the spring, but it would be in the 10-30 thou range if I was gonna guess. I'd just leave this all alone and install whatever pump you choose without modding it.
You should change the timing chain while you're in there. The LS2 timing chain is the recommended direct replacement. Look up GM part no 12646386.
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So your looking for info regarding how to shim it???? Back in the day most ported and shimmed pumps ran a .080 shim. I dont have any ones modified pump, so I don't know who runs what these days.
Unfortunately I don't recall who wrote this info so I can't give them the credit they deserve. But I will share it with you.
Unfortunately I don't recall who wrote this info so I can't give them the credit they deserve. But I will share it with you.
Relief Valve Shim: In a study of the Chevrolet LS6 oil pump (GM™ part number 12656665); the following equation calculates the shim size needed to achieve a desired oil system pressure. General shim size recommendations are .060 to .125 inches. Equation: xshim = 0.00612(y) – 0.362 In this equation, (y) is the desired oil system bypass pressure. Substitute this value with the desired oil system bypass pressure to calculate the desired shim size. Here are some common shim sizes and corresponding oil system bypass pressure:
- .121 = 79 psi
- .100 = 75.5 psi
- .095 = 74.6 psi (approximately 41 psi hot idle)
- .080 = 72.3 psi
A few oil pumps back in the day (1999-2001) failed on LS1's. There wasn't a lot of concern but it was infrequent. Way back I belive this was the spec when my TA got heads and cam.
Specs from GM Lubrication System - IIRC
Oil Capacity - Without Filter
5.7L
6.0 Qts
Oil Pressure - Minimum
34 kPa @ 1,000 RPM
5 psi @ 1,000 RPM
Oil Pressure - Minimum
69 kPa @ 2,000 RPM
10 psi @ 2,000 RPM
Dealers may have used 7-10 psi to determine if warranty was need back then as 20+ at idle seems normal.
Katech used to port stock LS oil pumps. I had a ported Katech LS6 pump that was perfect for 125,000 miles on my heads and cam TA. Shimmed, it make a little more pressure than stock. The pump made the same oil pressure when installed as the day the motor was pulled.
91 RS has a similar Katech ported LS2 pump if IIRC correctly.
TA's 416 has a Mellings high pressure with standard volume.
02 Z28 with 241,000 miles still has same stock oil pump oils 35 psi at hit idle, 45psi at cruise speed, 50+ at 6,000 rpm.
So far all have been excellent pumps.
Per Lingenfelter's website, then high volume LS oil pump is recommended in applications that will require increased pump flow to achieve the desired oil pressure. Engines with piston oil cooling jets, radiused crank bearings, aftermarket lifters or increased build clearances may require a higher volume pump to achieve the same oil pressure, especially at low engine speeds and higher oil temperatures when the pressure relief valve is not in control of oil pressure.
Specs from GM Lubrication System - IIRC
Oil Capacity - Without Filter
5.7L
6.0 Qts
Oil Pressure - Minimum
34 kPa @ 1,000 RPM
5 psi @ 1,000 RPM
Oil Pressure - Minimum
69 kPa @ 2,000 RPM
10 psi @ 2,000 RPM
Dealers may have used 7-10 psi to determine if warranty was need back then as 20+ at idle seems normal.
Katech used to port stock LS oil pumps. I had a ported Katech LS6 pump that was perfect for 125,000 miles on my heads and cam TA. Shimmed, it make a little more pressure than stock. The pump made the same oil pressure when installed as the day the motor was pulled.
91 RS has a similar Katech ported LS2 pump if IIRC correctly.
TA's 416 has a Mellings high pressure with standard volume.
02 Z28 with 241,000 miles still has same stock oil pump oils 35 psi at hit idle, 45psi at cruise speed, 50+ at 6,000 rpm.
So far all have been excellent pumps.
Per Lingenfelter's website, then high volume LS oil pump is recommended in applications that will require increased pump flow to achieve the desired oil pressure. Engines with piston oil cooling jets, radiused crank bearings, aftermarket lifters or increased build clearances may require a higher volume pump to achieve the same oil pressure, especially at low engine speeds and higher oil temperatures when the pressure relief valve is not in control of oil pressure.