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I decided to install the injectors and fuel rail while I was watching the Redskins get smoked, then I threw it on the motor just to see it. Wow this thing is HUGE!
Pushrods (off the shelf, i.e. not custom) come in .050" increments for the most part (50 thousands), with availability in .025" increments (25 thousands).
Pushrods are in and the rockers are on. I got between 1 and 1 1/4 turn after zero lash with the lifters on the base circle of the cam. I think that's pretty good. Should be .045 preload +/- .015.
She's about done! I'll double check everything tomorrow and fill it up with fluids. Get ready for the first start video tomorrow night. I put together a decent base tune with some idle adjustments and the new injector data, so hopefully it'll idle well. Fingers crossed! I'm as nervous as I am excited...
Yep, that's a front MAP location and I'm happy with it. Didn't feel like messing with the rear mount and having to pull the intake if it ever fails.
I also need to cut my 22* bellows from intakehoses. I am going to run an SD tune this time
Looks good! Where did you get the hold down for the MAP?
I found the intakehoses 22 degree coupler to make taking the lid on and off a major pain. I ended up getting a 4" spectre 9775 accordion style bellow that makes it a lot easier to get to the air filter. I used a scrap piece of 4" exhaust pipe to go from my 104 mm lid to the coupler. I also found that a 3.5" 22 degree street bend PVC pipe worked well to go from a blackwing lid to the coupler. Good luck with the startup!
Looks good! Where did you get the hold down for the MAP?
I found the intakehoses 22 degree coupler to make taking the lid on and off a major pain. I ended up getting a 4" spectre 9775 accordion style bellow that makes it a lot easier to get to the air filter. I used a scrap piece of 4" exhaust pipe to go from my 104 mm lid to the coupler. I also found that a 3.5" 22 degree street bend PVC pipe worked well to go from a blackwing lid to the coupler. Good luck with the startup!
The hold down is on eBay. It'd actually work on the rear too, but is perfect for the front. I may paint it at some point.
Yeah, I'm not sure what to do about the coupler. I have a few options actually. That old SLP smooth bellows was a bit of a pain too. I'll look at that Spector piece. Thanks for the well wishes!
I am still messing with the intake on mine. I ended just leaving the SLP lid with the stock MAF for now as looking at the numbers while tuning the intake had very little restrictions (at least in Utahs thin air). I have solid motor mounts but still need just a little more clearance on the setup I was working with.
I wound up using a straight 4" coupling on mine, lid neck to TB. I ditched the aluminum tube altogether. Just something to consider. (Obviously I was SD tuned as well...)
...I ended just leaving the SLP lid with the stock MAF for now as looking at the numbers while tuning the intake had very little restrictions (at least in Utahs thin air)...
I am doing some testing to see the difference between my blackwing lid and the FTP 104. So far based on MAP readings it seems like about a 2 kpa difference in favor of the FTP. I still need to mess with it some more and see how the difference in kpa correlates to hp on the dyno and mph at the track.
It started and thankfully the initial observations are good. There's a weird squeaky sound that may be a header leak interestingly enough, but so far so good. I'll check things over a bit better tomorrow and should get started on tuning this weekend.
Sounds good. Not sure that's a header leak. Sounds a bit metallic. Could be a pulley.
It sounds a bit different in person than it does on the video, and it sounds like it's coming from the driver's side. You could be right though. I'll try to figure it out tonight.
Sounds like an exhaust leak to me, videos do change things, but it still sounded pretty clear, and just like an exh leak IMO.
I use a mechanics stethoscope to find exhaust leaks, pull the end of it off leaving just the rubber hose and stick a metal brake line in the hose then bend the end so you can get up under the manifold. Trace all flanges with it and you'll find your leak and pinpoint it.
09-16-2018, 04:01 PM
