Looking to increase horsepower on bone stock ls1
The twin screw blower makes more torque but that only matters if the car can hook up and put the torque to the ground. It's also harder on the drivetrain that a centrifugal blower.
Get a Walbro. A stock pump will run out of gas, no pun intended, at a much lower power level.
Will the 255 LPH be fine or should I go for the 450 with my goals?
Also, does the hot wire require me to drop the tank or can I just go through the trap door I already have setup to get to the fuel pump?
Also, does the hot wire require me to drop the tank or can I just go through the trap door I already have setup to get to the fuel pump?
Last edited by phoenix trans am; Sep 4, 2018 at 11:43 PM.
My friend ran a P1SC kit with a 255lph pump. If I was going with a more aggressive build or a bigger blower I would consider the 340 lph pump.
a 255 will handle 500whp, but you'll want more lol. I would run a 340 or 450 so you have room to grow. 550whp is pretty common and won't hurt anything so long as it's tuned right. You almost have to try to not make power with a centrifugal blower on an LS.
Magnacharger > , if you are just going to slap a blower on, talk to brian or david over at superchargers online. And they will tell you everything you need to know and the differences between all superchargers applicable for your vehicle. Good people. Tell them justin tutogi told you to call and theyll take care of you
Easy...... Bolt a 200 Shot NOS with a progressive controller, cooler plugs, high octane fuel tank, all the normal bolt on crap, 3600 circle D converter, bring in the NOS nice and easy and be done with it. Then find another engine somewhere and build a stroker motor with good parts transfer NOS to new engine and run low 10s all day long. While you build the stroker put money away for a 12 inch or 9 inch rear diff also...
If you want the cheapest way to be a lot quicker, nitrous is it.
https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...?idproduct=332
If you want the cheapest way to be quicker all the time, you need to do rear end gears.
Next step up in price is a cam, springs, headers, converter, and a tune.
A really decent bang for the buck combo would be nitrous, gears, and a new converter.
As others have mentioned, if you have the budget for it, a centrifugal supercharger kit is nice. Instant power all the time with perfectdrivability. Of course, far from cheap.
Ok, so I decided to invest in a Procharger P1SC. I already met with someone who I've heard good things about and seems reliable. We ordered the blower and are just waiting for it to arrive. But now, despite me not planning on beating the car up, I want to put a new motor in the vehicle as well since I have a good bit of mileage racked up and I would like the vehicle to have some longevity. I know I am looking at another 8-10k, at least. Any suggestions on what motor would be the least expensive but still sufficient enough to handle the added hp the blower will help produce? Thanks again for the help all of you have offered.
You don't have to pay anywhere near $8-10k for another motor. You can get a low mileage 5.3 or 6.0 out of the junk yard for less than $2k. I would just keep the LS1 though. Run it until it blows.
I do strongly suggest that you replace the 4L60e first. That is your weakest link in the drive train.
I do strongly suggest that you replace the 4L60e first. That is your weakest link in the drive train.
I would do a cooler like mentioned,a Transgo and a pan off a truck for that trans. That along with frequent fluid changes should let the trans live with a blower. It lasted me into the 11 second zone. I would then weld your axle tubes and run a girdle on your rear. You will need some Nitto Drag radials with all that power. And unlike me you won't age 10 years if you get caught in a downpour(I have Mickeys). Do those so your drivetrain can take some boost with a daily driver.
I have heard of people making a 4L60e survive above 400hp, but I have never seen it done. I'm not the best person to comment on the 4L60e. That was the first thing I replaced.
The 4L80e is good for way over 500hp. That's why I went that route. I also compared the 4L60e rebuilds to the 4L80e rebuilds. The 4L80 was cheaper. I got a junk yard 4L80, brand new billet Circle-D converter, and Trans go HD-2 kit. Parts plus labor was about $2600. I was quoted way over $3000 for the 4L60 rebuild.
The negatives with the 4L80, are the extra weight and the gearing. The rotating mass is heavier, so it robs more power. The overdrive gear is about .05 larger, so your rpms will increase by about 200 on the highway. The first gear is also way longer. My 0-60mph is all first gear (.323 rear end gears).
Either way you go, you will be looking at a GM-brand transmission. Just take it to a trustworthy re-builder, and use high-quality parts.
The 4L80e is good for way over 500hp. That's why I went that route. I also compared the 4L60e rebuilds to the 4L80e rebuilds. The 4L80 was cheaper. I got a junk yard 4L80, brand new billet Circle-D converter, and Trans go HD-2 kit. Parts plus labor was about $2600. I was quoted way over $3000 for the 4L60 rebuild.
The negatives with the 4L80, are the extra weight and the gearing. The rotating mass is heavier, so it robs more power. The overdrive gear is about .05 larger, so your rpms will increase by about 200 on the highway. The first gear is also way longer. My 0-60mph is all first gear (.323 rear end gears).
Either way you go, you will be looking at a GM-brand transmission. Just take it to a trustworthy re-builder, and use high-quality parts.











