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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 12:45 PM
  #21  
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Changed the bolt to a new M6 8.8 20mm.

what prevents these backing out with vibration over time ?
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fakky
Changed the bolt to a new M6 8.8 20mm.

what prevents these backing out with vibration over time ?
I do a very small dab of blue loctite
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 12:55 PM
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You finish that transmission up yet?
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 01:14 PM
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Lol.
yeah didnt you see all the videos

no idea if it works yet .... aiming to have this all done over winter .... so targeting April 2nd ....

looks good in my spare bedroom though

will be mating it back to engine this weekend and trying to get everything in place
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 07:12 PM
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So ... pulled the exhaust manifolds today and all came of cleanly except one ....... snapped .....

Whats the recommendation/consenus here - try the same approach - or weld a nut. Straight up mig wire ok ?
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 08:02 PM
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Yup, weld a nut on there with the welder of your choice. As long as the nut stays on there, it's all good.

When I was disassembling the 4.8 for my swap, half of the bolts broke off. I used a Lincoln "Crackerbox" arc welder to weld on a bunch of scrap nuts to the remaining stumps.
Spray it down with plenty of WD40 or the lubricant of your choice (I don't recommend KY, though...) while they are still hot. They should come out without too much resistance.

Of course, I did this after the engine was out of the truck, so I'm sure I had an easier task than you. But that's how it's done.
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 11:19 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dixiebandit69
Yup, weld a nut on there with the welder of your choice. As long as the nut stays on there, it's all good.

When I was disassembling the 4.8 for my swap, half of the bolts broke off. I used a Lincoln "Crackerbox" arc welder to weld on a bunch of scrap nuts to the remaining stumps.
Spray it down with plenty of WD40 or the lubricant of your choice (I don't recommend KY, though...) while they are still hot. They should come out without too much resistance.

Of course, I did this after the engine was out of the truck, so I'm sure I had an easier task than you. But that's how it's done.
thx

just want sure since the left hand bit worked so well if I should try that. But it's an area that can see rust and heat so might be a hell of a lot harder ... and if I start drilling... might make the bolt weaker if I then decide to switch to welding
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fakky
thx

just want sure since the left hand bit worked so well if I should try that. But it's an area that can see rust and heat so might be a hell of a lot harder ... and if I start drilling... might make the bolt weaker if I then decide to switch to welding
Try the reverse bit first in case it wants to come out just with that, then you don't have to worry about it. If it doesn't then you already have your hole drilled for an ease out, or stop there and weld a nut on. Only takes less than a minute to chuck up the drill and drill the bolt a little.

Let it soak in some penetrating lube over night or something and it'll probably come right out with the left hand bit.

Always remember when a bolt breaks that isn't cross threaded it will usually come right out with a pick or a left hand bit. If it's cross threaded or rusted solid it's harder to get out, but again if it isn't cross threaded it usually doesn't take too much to get it out. The exception is those exhaust bolts, sometimes they spin right out sometimes they're rusted in and a bitch to get out. I've done them with an ease out without too much struggle but if you can weld a nut on it easily and have a welder handy that method is hard to beat.
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Old Oct 2, 2018 | 04:19 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Try the reverse bit first in case it wants to come out just with that, then you don't have to worry about it. If it doesn't then you already have your hole drilled for an ease out, or stop there and weld a nut on. Only takes less than a minute to chuck up the drill and drill the bolt a little.

Let it soak in some penetrating lube over night or something and it'll probably come right out with the left hand bit.

Always remember when a bolt breaks that isn't cross threaded it will usually come right out with a pick or a left hand bit. If it's cross threaded or rusted solid it's harder to get out, but again if it isn't cross threaded it usually doesn't take too much to get it out. The exception is those exhaust bolts, sometimes they spin right out sometimes they're rusted in and a bitch to get out. I've done them with an ease out without too much struggle but if you can weld a nut on it easily and have a welder handy that method is hard to beat.

Thanks Ill give it a go. Watched a few youtube videos also ..... didnt realize/think to look there also.
This is all new to me .... first rebuild on anything - so welding or drilling into these areas gets me nervous - not so much for the fact I know it needs to be done .... but if I do something wrong.
eg

If I drill too far will it weaken the bolt that then I cant weld it as most of the material is not drilled out (hollow).
Can I weld with the aluminium --- meaning will the weld try and stick the aluminium heads and create a head issue
Heat problems ...
Buggered threads


Long story short ...... WAY overthinking it...... just the way my brain works unfortunately at times

thanks all
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