315k mile 4.8 "refresh" plan
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1
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Seeing as I just spent $1500ish on rebuilding my 4.8 (I plan on abusing it, it'll be getting boost eventually, it's going in my E36 BMW, and I I shopped around, bought a cam and springs and lifters, swap oil pan, hone and cleaning and new cam bearings at the machine shop, etc...) $678 is an extremely fair price for a full top to bottom refresh kit from a reputable source, not an eBay seller that wont answer your calls when something is wrong. With 300k on the clock there's no reason to cheap out to save $100, when that $100 could be the difference between another part failing in 20k versus getting another 300k or longer depending on how you are with maintenance out of the motor before you need to touch it. I've built and rebuilt a few things over the past 14ish years, but since this is my first post on here take what I say with a grain of salt 
Listen to ws6store on this, be realistic with your cam choice, set a goal, set a budget, and stick to it.
Listen to ws6store on this, be realistic with your cam choice, set a goal, set a budget, and stick to it.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
You have to be realistic when getting a cam, whether it has a catchy name or not. What rpm range are you typically going to be using the engine in. A 4.8L lacks ALOT to be desired NA which is why most boost them, so if you are boosting, have that in mind.
I could use one of our signature cams like the high lift hot cam but like i said, youve gotta get a cam for the power and range you need, not want.
Most trucks will NEVER see above 3k really. So why get a larger cam that takes away your bottom end and towing capabilities?
Id really depends on a few things but you have to be specific and not just ask for input otherwise everyone is going to throw something at the wall and see what sticks, and everyones idea of what is DD-able is different, sometimes way different. Ive seen no less than 10 cams on a few fb pages for sale because they weren't what they wanted.
Set a goal
Set a budget
Stick to them
My thoughts on cams are supported by alot and some have other ideas. Lift (to a certain extent) builds power. So does a narrower lsa, again to a certain extent. More lift on the same duration will also gain power and will gain rpm range as well. The adverse effects are nearly non existent within reason.
Some of the parts etc are not necessary and youll spend extra money for no reason there also.
There is really too much info on the internet and you can read too much and go off in left field easy. Not all of it is right but not all of it is wrong either."
I could use one of our signature cams like the high lift hot cam but like i said, youve gotta get a cam for the power and range you need, not want.
Most trucks will NEVER see above 3k really. So why get a larger cam that takes away your bottom end and towing capabilities?
Id really depends on a few things but you have to be specific and not just ask for input otherwise everyone is going to throw something at the wall and see what sticks, and everyones idea of what is DD-able is different, sometimes way different. Ive seen no less than 10 cams on a few fb pages for sale because they weren't what they wanted.
Set a goal
Set a budget
Stick to them
My thoughts on cams are supported by alot and some have other ideas. Lift (to a certain extent) builds power. So does a narrower lsa, again to a certain extent. More lift on the same duration will also gain power and will gain rpm range as well. The adverse effects are nearly non existent within reason.
Some of the parts etc are not necessary and youll spend extra money for no reason there also.
There is really too much info on the internet and you can read too much and go off in left field easy. Not all of it is right but not all of it is wrong either."
After all the looking around, I realized that I should really know what is and isn't necessary, and that there is just endless info thats easy to get lost in.
As far as sound/lope/what's DD-able, I'm definitely not looking to sound any more aggressive than I have to. Hell, I don't even really like loud bikes anymore. The goal here is for me to get my van a decent reliable motor, but with a little more power since it looks like the move is to get a JY motor and then tear it down and really go through it.
Regarding RPM range, it's tricky for me. I like to cruise pretty fast on the highway and the 4.8 is so gutless, that I find myself in the upper revs all the time at WFO. I know there's pretty much no worse scenario for MPG, and my dream here is to get enough of a bump in torque to not have to spin the motor so fast.
Id bore the 4.8l to a 5.1 like i am going to do. parts are same price so only machine work is different.
Then youll have more cid, a better bore, and better compression. then go from there. id bore the 6.0 out also since again parts are same price and just out machine work.
Then youll have more cid, a better bore, and better compression. then go from there. id bore the 6.0 out also since again parts are same price and just out machine work.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Id bore the 4.8l to a 5.1 like i am going to do. parts are same price so only machine work is different.
Then youll have more cid, a better bore, and better compression. then go from there. id bore the 6.0 out also since again parts are same price and just out machine work.
Then youll have more cid, a better bore, and better compression. then go from there. id bore the 6.0 out also since again parts are same price and just out machine work.
Also I haven't bought this theoretical 6.0 yet, so if I should go with a 5.3 or some other motor that's still an option. To me an LQ9 seems like the most attractive thing to start with, so I've been watching those on eBay.
What should my plan be for pushrods/rockers? I feel like I should replace the ones in the 4.8 no matter what just because of mileage. I don't want anything exotic, just something that would not die when paired with that stage 3 high lift 216/220 TSP cam. Those PAC 1219 springs will most likely be what I buy; thanks for the rec!
No need to replace rockers. maybe trunion upgrade but thats up to you.
Pushrods, if using any high lift tsp cam youll need em but they come with the kit.
4.8l would take a 3.905 bore
6.0 would take up to a 4.040. makes a 372. i have one in my truck now.
If you are going to bore and/or replace pistons in the 6.0 then an lq4 is usually cheaper and readily available.
Pushrods, if using any high lift tsp cam youll need em but they come with the kit.
4.8l would take a 3.905 bore
6.0 would take up to a 4.040. makes a 372. i have one in my truck now.
If you are going to bore and/or replace pistons in the 6.0 then an lq4 is usually cheaper and readily available.
