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Glad you are making decent horsepower with the GM hotcam! .. especially dealing with smog laws!…I’m swapping a G-Body 87 Cutlass with a iron 6.2 and AI 226cc ported heads... the exhaust is a big deciding factor?..��
Glad you are making decent horsepower with the GM hotcam! .. especially dealing with smog laws!…I’m swapping a G-Body 87 Cutlass with a iron 6.2 and AI 226cc ported heads... the exhaust is a big deciding factor?..��
Its not the gm cam. Its our cam.. even says so in the title. :-)
OP I would REALLY like to see the dyno graph so please get a pic or the graph scanned/sent to me via email. I want to give our customers facts and real results and youre in exactly the situation to do that.
Its not the gm cam. Its our cam.. even says so in the title. :-)
OP I would REALLY like to see the dyno graph so please get a pic or the graph scanned/sent to me via email. I want to give our customers facts and real results and youre in exactly the situation to do that.
Sure, no problem. Once I put on the exhaust and throw it on the dyno again. I will make sure I get those graphs somehow; And will post here and send to you.
Its not the gm cam. Its our cam.. even says so in the title. :-)
OP I would REALLY like to see the dyno graph so please get a pic or the graph scanned/sent to me via email. I want to give our customers facts and real results and youre in exactly the situation to do that.
Will my 32lb injectors work with E85, if not; what injectors do I need?
Thinking of maximizing what I have. Exhaust upgrade
and E85 upgrade.
comtemplating on Aem e85 fuel pump, e85 fuel pressure regulator, but was wondering if the 32lb injectors I have now will be enough?
I'm no guru here, but I highly doubt the 32lb will work. You need nearly double the fuel when running E85. You'll likely need 40 ish lb, may as well go ahead and get 60's so you have room to grow.
You'll also need to make sure any flexible lines in the system are able to handle the ethenol.
Have you considered pulling weight out? Like light wheels, brakes, suspension? Pull the spare and jack, rear seat that really doesn't weigh anything etc?
Also consider a turn one PS pump, electric water pump, and crank scraper. All that will free up drag too.
Slicks are a good idea too, they are super light and I'm sure you're spinning a ton, but one of the best things is they are soft and flex and will help your rear end last a little longer since they absorb more of the shock loads. Yes they grab harder and that can be hard on a rear end, but shock loads are harder on the 10 bolt than pressure is. Pressure is power, shock loads are slamming the clutch. With a radial it's really heavy and hard and lets the hammering transfer to the gears and axles. Slicks absorb a lot of that. Seen a lot of dudes snap rears on drag radials and keep them together on slicks.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 03-18-2019 at 08:12 PM.
E85 will likely gain you nothing on this setup honestly.
Your 36lb are likely 42lb at ls1 pressure. Depends on what your duty cycle is now and what afr you target, but youll need quite a bit more cr to make it worth the while i think.
On a 408ci I had built we switched to e85 to see what would happen for ***** and giggles and it only made like 10rwhp more at the most. It may have been even less then that tbh. So probably not really cost effective in the dollar vs HP gained. Not sure how that works out you being in cail tho. I'm in FL
Also see if you can find a used 8.8 rear end instead. At your power level you really dont need a 9in but sometimes they are the cheaper route. Nice thing about the 8.8 is its lighter and eats less power. I had a 9in in my car. Made the car feel night and day different tho in a good way lol
Also see if you can find a used 8.8 rear end instead. At your power level you really dont need a 9in but sometimes they are the cheaper route. Nice thing about the 8.8 is its lighter and eats less power. I had a 9in in my car. Made the car feel night and day different tho in a good way lol
I have been looking but I can’t seem to find any, maybe I’m not looking in the right place.
So I figured what the hell, I have plans for itnin the future so might as well secure it now..
F - body Badonkadonks that's always hot topic! Mid-West Chassis bad *** badonkadonk
My Hawk's 8.8 Rear End review. My 91 RS has one and my 99 TA does too. Wish I'd done a UMI Watts link as well for the RS. Both rears have been trouble free. Both are Torsen's with 4.10's. One of members on Third Gen Org built a 9 inch himself and didn't save very much. I believe the 8.8 is a good choice. 700 whp to 1,000 whp depending on what what your doing is my understanding.
The 8.8 rear in the 99 TA survived the car being stolen, the idiots joy riding, and pounding the TA so hard the front k member shifted slightly and the K-member had to be realigned to get the suspension alignment fixed.
One of my friends has the aluminum housing Mid-West Chassis 9 inch with 3.73's and S-trac. It's outstanding. No issues. Quiet all things considered with ability to handle 1,200 to 1,500 whp depending from what I understand. It's also pretty light weight for a 9 inch. I'm impressed with the MWC. Customer service and taking time to help spec what you really need is A+++ from everything my friend shared. He can be a very demanding customer so I'm convinced MWC is outstanding.
My friend spent about $6,500 for his rear, MWC suspension upgrades and Vikings. I would love to have one of the aluminum housing 9 inch rear but my budget didn't allow it.
Personally, I will pass on the Vikings and any other oil shock for the street and keep my Bilsteins or get a set of Koni's from Sam Strano. The roto-joint LCA's & Panhard aren't bad on the street. He has the MWC, mine are UMI. Both are A+.
No experience with the S60 other than what I read online. Looks pretty heavy and like it eats more hp than a 9 inch or 8.8 but they are definitely tough.
It might be different experience if a powerful vendor is involved but I would be very leery of a Mouser, Mooser, er moser built rear end. If fixing leaks and correcting radial run out and other problems are something you enjoy doing then a Mouser might a great choice. That's based on conversations with two unhappy customers from back in 2015.
Their experiences steered me to the Hawk's 8.8 rear end.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 03-19-2019 at 05:04 AM.
F - body Badonkadonks that's always hot topic! Mid-West Chassis bad *** badonkadonk
My Hawk's 8.8 Rear End review. My 91 RS has one and my 99 TA does too. Wish I'd done a UMI Watts link as well for the RS. Both rears have been trouble free. Both are Torsen's with 4.10's. One of members on Third Gen Org built a 9 inch himself and didn't save very much. I believe the 8.8 is a good choice. 700 whp to 1,000 whp depending on what what your doing is my understanding.
The 8.8 rear in the 99 TA survived the car being stolen, the idiots joy riding, and pounding the TA so hard the front k member shifted slightly and the K-member had to be realigned to get the suspension alignment fixed.
One of my friends has the aluminum housing Mid-West Chassis 9 inch with 3.73's and S-trac. It's outstanding. No issues. Quiet all things considered with ability to handle 1,200 to 1,500 whp depending from what I understand. It's also pretty light weight for a 9 inch. I'm impressed with the MWC. Customer service and taking time to help spec what you really need is A+++ from everything my friend shared. He can be a very demanding customer so I'm convinced MWC is outstanding.
My friend spent about $6,500 for his rear, MWC suspension upgrades and Vikings. I would love to have one of the aluminum housing 9 inch rear but my budget didn't allow it.
Personally, I will pass on the Vikings and any other oil shock for the street and keep my Bilsteins or get a set of Koni's from Sam Strano. The roto-joint LCA's & Panhard aren't bad on the street. He has the MWC, mine are UMI. Both are A+.
No experience with the S60 other than what I read online. Looks pretty heavy and like it eats more hp than a 9 inch or 8.8 but they are definitely tough.
It might be different experience if a powerful vendor is involved but I would be very leery of a Mouser, Mooser, er moser built rear end. If fixing leaks and correcting radial run out and other problems are something you enjoy doing then a Mouser might a great choice. That's based on conversations with two unhappy customers from back in 2015.
Their experiences steered me to the Hawk's 8.8 rear end.
Very clean set up. Thanks for the heads up with moser. I did find the Hawks, but it seemed like people we unhappy with their products so I said what the hell might as well just get the 9”.
Will I need adjustable rear suspension parts? I already have UMi panhard bar, sway bar, relocation bar, and rlca. Wondering if I could just swap what have has less then 3k on it..
F - body Badonkadonks that's always hot topic! Mid-West Chassis bad *** badonkadonk
My Hawk's 8.8 Rear End review. My 91 RS has one and my 99 TA does too. Wish I'd done a UMI Watts link as well for the RS. Both rears have been trouble free. Both are Torsen's with 4.10's. One of members on Third Gen Org built a 9 inch himself and didn't save very much. I believe the 8.8 is a good choice. 700 whp to 1,000 whp depending on what what your doing is my understanding.
The 8.8 rear in the 99 TA survived the car being stolen, the idiots joy riding, and pounding the TA so hard the front k member shifted slightly and the K-member had to be realigned to get the suspension alignment fixed.
One of my friends has the aluminum housing Mid-West Chassis 9 inch with 3.73's and S-trac. It's outstanding. No issues. Quiet all things considered with ability to handle 1,200 to 1,500 whp depending from what I understand. It's also pretty light weight for a 9 inch. I'm impressed with the MWC. Customer service and taking time to help spec what you really need is A+++ from everything my friend shared. He can be a very demanding customer so I'm convinced MWC is outstanding.
My friend spent about $6,500 for his rear, MWC suspension upgrades and Vikings. I would love to have one of the aluminum housing 9 inch rear but my budget didn't allow it.
Personally, I will pass on the Vikings and any other oil shock for the street and keep my Bilsteins or get a set of Koni's from Sam Strano. The roto-joint LCA's & Panhard aren't bad on the street. He has the MWC, mine are UMI. Both are A+.
No experience with the S60 other than what I read online. Looks pretty heavy and like it eats more hp than a 9 inch or 8.8 but they are definitely tough.
It might be different experience if a powerful vendor is involved but I would be very leery of a Mouser, Mooser, er moser built rear end. If fixing leaks and correcting radial run out and other problems are something you enjoy doing then a Mouser might a great choice. That's based on conversations with two unhappy customers from back in 2015.
Their experiences steered me to the Hawk's 8.8 rear end.
I did a little research and the 8.8 with my options is 3050. If I build a 9” it’s 2700 plus labor and supporting mods. So I really like the idea of the hawks 8.8 ready to bolt on. Can you please share your experience with me on installing your 8.8?
I have all non adj Umi rear parts already..
03-16-2019, 12:02 AM
