Sleeving Ls1
03-08-2019, 09:53 PM
#21
I went from aluminum to iron 6 years ago. It makes zero difference. You can’t feel any difference no matter how you drive it.
Unless you’re building purpose built drag car.....it makes no difference.
Unless you’re building purpose built drag car.....it makes no difference.
03-08-2019, 11:10 PM
#22
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Well the C5 Performance Book I have states that it is NOT GOOD to Add the Heavier Iron Blocks. Car was designed with an Aluminum Block for a Reason. Just saying.
03-09-2019, 12:49 AM
#23
TECH Senior Member
Anyone who knows handling characteristics will tell you 100#+/- difference WILL affect the balance of ANY normally good-handling car. Actually a drag car is where it does NOT make AS MUCH difference since dragging is strictly a straight line situation anyway.
03-09-2019, 09:03 AM
#24
Getting a ~100 pounds off of the front of a car does make a difference in some cars. It may make more difference in some older mediocre or poorer handling basically stock suspension cars than in newer better suspension cars.
My 72 vette lost a 100 pounds off the nose with aluminum heads & intake, deleted AC and a few other changes. It was noticeable hitting the curves hard in spirited driving - less understeer. Riding down the interstate at 70 mph or normal driving it wasn't noticeable. Later with other mod's the vette lost ~300 pounds that's definitely more noticeable.
My 72 vette lost a 100 pounds off the nose with aluminum heads & intake, deleted AC and a few other changes. It was noticeable hitting the curves hard in spirited driving - less understeer. Riding down the interstate at 70 mph or normal driving it wasn't noticeable. Later with other mod's the vette lost ~300 pounds that's definitely more noticeable.
03-09-2019, 11:08 AM
#26
On The Tree
Thread Starter
03-09-2019, 04:28 PM
#28
On The Tree
Thread Starter
If you have your car set up right you don't need weight in the back. This car might see the strip twice when I get finished. Mostly it will be street driven.
03-09-2019, 04:53 PM
#29
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Aluminum block LS3 sleeved to 4.125 bore and go from there.
03-09-2019, 06:47 PM
#31
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
03-09-2019, 10:20 PM
#32
On The Tree
Thread Starter
There is ALWAYS someone out there That will Kick Your Cars ***. It's pointless to Try and Keep up with the Fastest. Its a Money game....whoever has the Most Wins. Lmao....... I'm building My Car to Have Some Fun, I dont care if it doesnt have the fastest times, as long as it is reliable and pleasing to drive
thats all I need.
03-10-2019, 11:52 AM
#33
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
No matter How Much You Spend on Your Motor,Turbo,Nitrous, Suspension, etc
There is ALWAYS someone out there That will Kick Your Cars ***. It's pointless to Try and Keep up with the Fastest. Its a Money game....whoever has the Most Wins. Lmao....... I'm building My Car to Have Some Fun, I dont care if it doesnt have the fastest times, as long as it is reliable and pleasing to drive
thats all I need.
There is ALWAYS someone out there That will Kick Your Cars ***. It's pointless to Try and Keep up with the Fastest. Its a Money game....whoever has the Most Wins. Lmao....... I'm building My Car to Have Some Fun, I dont care if it doesnt have the fastest times, as long as it is reliable and pleasing to drive
thats all I need.
03-12-2019, 08:19 PM
#34
Dart iron blocks start around 2300, Aluminum starts at 5k
LSX block is right around 3k, and that's still Iron.
If you mean just a stock block and not a high power motor, then you can get aluminum GM blocks for a little over 1k. But most sleeve for higher power/larger bore than OE liners can handle.