Sleeving Ls1
Anyone know what the costs are to Sleeve a Ls1?
I bought a C5, tore the engine down to shortblock found 1 bore #2 cylinder rings are gone and piston has wore a significant groove into the wall. Cylinders have been bored before.
Engine still in it, waiting to get a cherry picker to pull it. I have a L33 with good cylinder walls sitting on a Engine stand I could substitute for the LS1 if cost is too much for Re Sleeving. If I do it Id want to do all 8 and go Big Bore. Lol
I bought a C5, tore the engine down to shortblock found 1 bore #2 cylinder rings are gone and piston has wore a significant groove into the wall. Cylinders have been bored before.
Engine still in it, waiting to get a cherry picker to pull it. I have a L33 with good cylinder walls sitting on a Engine stand I could substitute for the LS1 if cost is too much for Re Sleeving. If I do it Id want to do all 8 and go Big Bore. Lol
if you have another engine, thats your best route cost wise. Its going to be quite pricey to sleeve all 8. Thats only worth it if your building a big cube motor or alot of boost. Or if that motor has alot of sentimental value to you.
why would anyone even sleeve a motor when you can buy a good block (I’m assuming without looking up prices) for that or cheaper? Seems like a waste of moola
I am going to Roll with the L33. I am not a Fan of Boring blocks out to the max all in one go. So most likely this L33 will be stock cube or a little bigger
in bore if it needs it. Forged Pistons will be in the mix. 11.2 compression....I have 2 choices of Cnc Heads.....just sent the 799 heads to Katech last week for Cnc Porting. So the little Motor should be all there even if it is small. Oh and a TSP Cam will be inside working things as well.
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Race Engine Development does quality Darton sleeves with perfect precision. BES too and ERL did before closing shop.
I've read that correctly sleeved MID Darton set ups are stronger than new factory blocks in some applications but less expensive than aftermarket. Also Darton style improved cooling from what I've read.
Maybe someone with a sleeved set up share the details.
"I like the LS1 block because it has solid main webs with no cast-in breather holes. I will install the large bore, 4.200-inch sleeves, in the LS1 blocks but not the LS6. The LS6 blocks have the cast-in breather holes, making them too weak in my opinion, to bore out for the larger bore sleeves. Now, the Gen IV blocks also have breather holes, but on these blocks the floor of the coolant section has been raised leaving more material for the sleeves to sit on with much less chance of cracks developing than on the LS6 block. My preference in order on the Gen IV blocks is LS2, LS7, and then the L92/LS3/LSA/LS9 blocks, which are all the same in terms of sleeving."
Texas speed salesman told me they will resleeve (dry) Gen4 blocks only.
RED claims now they will resleeve (dry) Gen4 Siamese cyl blocks only like ‘06 and later 5.3s, $2100 not L33, maybe they’ve had failure issues with other non reinforced blocks.
RED claims now they will resleeve (dry) Gen4 Siamese cyl blocks only like ‘06 and later 5.3s, $2100 not L33, maybe they’ve had failure issues with other non reinforced blocks.
Sounds more like they don't want to do wet sleeves. Could be a supply issue or it could be connected to the special coolant they require with wet sleeves.
I suspect it's just not that practical anymore. To my knowledge you wet sleeve the Gen3's since you can't dry sleeve them, so the entirety of the bores has to be machined out and the MID installed, a bit more complex. But the Gen3 aluminum motors are just the LS1/6 and L33 so I can't imagine there's many cores left out there. I think it's probably just a lot easier and cost effective for them to use a plentiful Gen4 core and dry sleeve them.
Steve, owner and only installer of sleeves at RED has been doing this for 40 years. He also co-owns the patent for them and does most all of Dartons R&D work. You can trust him. In this hobby, that’s worth a lot, to me anyway.









