Cam recommendations for LS1
#1
Cam recommendations for LS1
Soo I wanna hear some cam suggestions for my LS1 from a 2002 firebird. Car has tsp long tubes, 3 inch true duals, tune with an m6 and factory rear. Also going to be throwing on some 799/243 heads at the same time so I wanna know what cam would be good to pair with my current mods. Im looking for hopefully 400 wheel while still being okay to drive on the street without the AC stalling the engine lol. Thanks for the help!
#2
228/232 on 111 is still my favorite little street cam for a setup like yours. Definitely do 243's over the 799 unless you plan on milling the 799's. AC wont stall the engine regardless of cam size if tuned properly.
#3
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#5
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Pro LS Stage 1 SUM-8715 Ghost cam (222/233 115 + 3 .600/.575) will make the number easily and it's easy to tune. Of course the SUM-8707 Stage 2 (226/238 113 + 3 .600/.600) would be a good time as well and do just fine with a good tune.
#6
Ive been looking hard at the stage 2 SUM-8707 cam. What would you recommend for valve springs? Also do I need to do anything else mechanically for that cam to work? pushrods, rockers, etc? Running factory 3.42's in the rear if that makes any difference in cam selection, though I'd like to go to a 3.90 or 4.10 in the future.
#7
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Ive been looking hard at the stage 2 SUM-8707 cam. What would you recommend for valve springs? Also do I need to do anything else mechanically for that cam to work? pushrods, rockers, etc? Running factory 3.42's in the rear if that makes any difference in cam selection, though I'd like to go to a 3.90 or 4.10 in the future.
We prefer the factory rocker as it's lighter at the valve, but the trunnions wear over time. It would be a good idea to get the SUM-141560 Bushing style kit and our installer p/n SME-906011. Yes, we have the new thick wall HDR pushrods. We recommend using a pushrod length checker to verify, but you will probably need a set of 11/32 SUM-14197425 7.425 length pushrods. We have the cam installation kit CMB-08-0029 which has the gaskets, seal, o-ring, and LS2 timing chain.
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#8
The more gear you run, the more you can shift power upstairs, but the stage one and two both do well in the midrange where you're spending a lot of time. Both have a 43 abdc closing point...it's the opening point that's changed to get a smoother idle with the Stage 1 Ghost cam. The best spring for that is the TFS-2500287 Dual springs with the Titanium retainers is good if you're doing head work and a Dorman RNB-615-901 intake in the future, but a set of TFS-16918-16 Beehives work just fine for what you're doing at present.
We prefer the factory rocker as it's lighter at the valve, but the trunnions wear over time. It would be a good idea to get the SUM-141560 Bushing style kit and our installer p/n SME-906011. Yes, we have the new thick wall HDR pushrods. We recommend using a pushrod length checker to verify, but you will probably need a set of 11/32 SUM-14197425 7.425 length pushrods. We have the cam installation kit CMB-08-0029 which has the gaskets, seal, o-ring, and LS2 timing chain.
We prefer the factory rocker as it's lighter at the valve, but the trunnions wear over time. It would be a good idea to get the SUM-141560 Bushing style kit and our installer p/n SME-906011. Yes, we have the new thick wall HDR pushrods. We recommend using a pushrod length checker to verify, but you will probably need a set of 11/32 SUM-14197425 7.425 length pushrods. We have the cam installation kit CMB-08-0029 which has the gaskets, seal, o-ring, and LS2 timing chain.
#12
TECH Senior Member
#13
I always do my 228/232's on 110 for street cars just to bring the power in quicker, dont need to rev that high, and they of course sound a little better. The last one I did was an LXL lobe, super quiet, but I need to have Cam motion do my next one just for comparison sake.