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I have an lq9 from an 04 Escalade my current setup is 228/228 TSP CAM 110 LSA .600 lift on single springs.
Ls Swap Longtube Headers, Cold Air Intake, 42 lb injectors
E85 converted so I run corn only. I have stock intake manifold and stock 317s on it. Have a 4l60e with a 3600-3800 3C circle d converter with some 4.11s in the rear. The vehicle is a 1998 Tahoe. It’s a unique project I got going on and at the moment I’m basically stuck now on what to do. Motor had 79k miles on it when I did swap don’t know if info is useful. My motor started knocking day before yesterday after I ran it at the track. Little did I know it was leaking oil. So my engine started making a knocking noise. One of my buddies helped tow it but he says it sounds like I spun a rod bearing. So should I do a stock rebuild? What’s the difference between 370 402 408. I use the truck daily so yeah I like to street race here and there lol. Will see track about twice a month. Mainly street race or cruising. Looking to achieve 500rwhp. I do on the other hand have a Nitrous Express Kit I just got for it. I plan on upgrading to dual springs and a 238/246 cam what do you guys recommend? What’s more budget friendly? I’m not looking to spend $6000 either I’m in the $1900-3800 range Max.
No replacement for displacement but on a $1900-$3800 budget and trying to reach 500 rwhp NA will be a tall order with stock cathedral stuff. A forged rotating assembly alone could set you back $2500. My goal is to reach 500 rwhp with my LS370 build but it hasn't really been budget friendly as the $$$ adds up fast.
Stock LS1 crank and timing gears: $0
LQ9 block: $500
Machine work to block: $275
Forged pistons for 3.622 stroke: $900
Forged rods: $700
Balance rotating assembly: $250
Valve spring kit: $300
Lunati High RPM lifters: $800
823 cylinder heads: $500
ARP head stud kit: $250
C5R timing chain: $160.00
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$4635.00
I still need the intake manifold, fuel rails, injectors, camshaft, fuel system and a tune. There's FAST, CHEAP and RELIABLE but you can't have all three.
I don’t think you’ll get 500 without a pretty radical stroker through the auto. If your budget is 3800. I would turn or replace crank do standard rebuild and either look into a LS3 top end or go 243 ported yourself and nnbs intake and keep spray in the 150 or less range.
I don’t think you’ll get 500 without a pretty radical stroker through the auto. If your budget is 3800. I would turn or replace crank do standard rebuild and either look into a LS3 top end or go 243 ported yourself and nnbs intake and keep spray in the 150 or less range.
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THIS
And you will still go over budget.
Or find another junkyard 6.0, will cost about the same
You should be able to find a later model 6.0 with the 823 heads already on it though ive seen them for under 2,000 even on ebay with free shipping, then you will already have the better heads and intake.
I have a 402 stroker built from an LQ9 making 590 crank/490 rwhp through an M6 on 93 octane and a mild tune but it cost way more than your budget. The only thing I ended up using from the original takeout 6.0 was the block. I overbuilt the snot out of mine though.
The 370 will make better power than 364 but those heads and low cr are holding you back.
We can get you set on the parts, machine work is the only variable then.
Our complete rebuild kits are $699. Doesnt include crank rods cam lifters or springs but everything else.
Then youd need a set of 243s ported, and a bigger cam. Port work from tsp starts at 750 and bigger cam means dual springs. So bet on 389 for cam and 289 for springs.
Basically 2120 for all that. Not a bad price though. Then lifters $90 with kit. 2220.
Options are out there but youll need to set you budget higher or hp goals a little lower.
I was at the same spot as you, my lq4 started making noise. Instead of rebuilding it I decided to go with a stroker short block from Thompson motor sports but I shortly found a deal on a complete 383 ls1 based stroker for a little bit more than what the short block was going to cost me. Your budget is too low for a stroker, unless you find a good deal. Rebuild the stock bottom end, get some square port heads and a better intake, have the heads milled that's about where your going to be at with your budget.
Corn opens things up a bunch so we'll put this option out there for you. You may want to have a look at the Lunati 4" crank and rod kit for $1349 and a set of a domed Wiseco K448X3 pistons ($908) gets you to $2225. They would be 12.4:1 out of the box and you'd be at 408ci. The SUM-8709 237/246 113+3 .625/.600 cam $289. Send the castings to TEA for their competition valve job, hot tank, bead blast, grind the valves, check the guides and mill the heads .030 to pump 13.25:1 for $300 + another $225 for their TFS-2500286P dual springs. This gets you to $3038 plus some freight on the heads. Local Machine work would be hot tank, cam bearings, bore, hone, balance. You'd need a rebuild kit with bearings and gaskets then a LS2 chain perhaps and a balancer bolt. You'll easily hit your number and have a bottom end in it that can take a lot of spray.
Corn opens things up a bunch so we'll put this option out there for you. You may want to have a look at the Lunati 4" crank and rod kit for $1349 and a set of a domed Wiseco K448X3 pistons ($908) gets you to $2225. They would be 12.4:1 out of the box and you'd be at 408ci. The SUM-8709 237/246 113+3 .625/.600 cam $289. Send the castings to TEA for their competition valve job, hot tank, bead blast, grind the valves, check the guides and mill the heads .030 to pump 13.25:1 for $300 + another $225 for their TFS-2500286P dual springs. This gets you to $3038 plus some freight on the heads. Local Machine work would be hot tank, cam bearings, bore, hone, balance. You'd need a rebuild kit with bearings and gaskets then a LS2 chain perhaps and a balancer bolt. You'll easilySURPASS your number and have a bottom end in it that can take a lot of spray.
Fixed it for you. After this the machine work will put him over his $3900 budget....plus all the extras that nickle and dime you to death. I would put it closer to 4500-5000 total.
Fixed it for you. After this the machine work will put him over his $3900 budget....plus all the extras that nickle and dime you to death. I would put it closer to 4500-5000 total.
Our customers can do the math. What isn’t so easy is to see what the next achievable level is. Without this, people would be stuck at rebuilder level. We are Summit Racing after alll. Not Summit rebuilding.
Last edited by Summitracing; 04-03-2019 at 06:33 PM.
Our customers can do the math. What isn’t so easy is to see what the next achievable level is. Without this, people would be stuck at rebuilder level. We are Summit Racing after alll. Not Summit rebuilding.
What? Not knocking your suggestions, sounds like it would make a solid platform, but clearly beyond his Max budget.
FWIW, I think it is possible to build a 408ci longblock with the $3800 budget but I wouldn’t suggest it if he already has a nitrous kit. If it were me, I would tear the engine down, replace or repair what needs it, and let the nitrous kit make the power. Save the rest of the money to replace that 4l60 with a better transmission.
FWIW, I think it is possible to build a 408ci longblock with the $3800 budget but I wouldn’t suggest it if he already has a nitrous kit. If it were me, I would tear the engine down, replace or repair what needs it, and let the nitrous kit make the power. Save the rest of the money to replace that 4l60 with a better transmission.
Idk summit priced him out to $3083 for the parts and some head work, but not including the gaskets, machine work, balancing, and assembly.
Idk summit priced him out to $3083 for the parts and some head work, but not including the gaskets, machine work, balancing, and assembly.
There are more budget friendly parts on summit’s catalog. A K1 crank (~$800) and Scat or Eagle I beams (~$300) would be about $200 cheaper than what was quoted. Summit brand pistons with rings would be another $200 or so cheaper than the Wiseco pistons as well. A hot tank and cam bearings may not be needed either if the block isn’t a sludged up nightmare. You can usually have the crank balanced cheaper if you measure and provide the machine shop with the bobweight. There’s a lot of ways to pinch pennies, especially if you can do some of the work yourself rather than paying someone.
Still, machine shop costs would be around 500 to 800 and balancing 200-350. Plus $100ish for bearings and $175ish for file fitting rings.
Our gasket kits with head bolts are one of the best priced out there and thats $330 also.
It all adds up even the small stuff. Especially if you cannot do any yourself.
How would this Scat "Street Series" 4in LS stroker crank be for $455? That's shipped to your door and no sales tax. Needs a reluctor wheel installed. It appears budget friendly by trimming another $200 to $250 off the cost of the rotating assembly.
How would this Scat "Street Series" 4in LS stroker crank be for $455? That's shipped to your door and no sales tax. Needs a reluctor wheel installed. It appears budget friendly by trimming another $200 to $250 off the cost of the rotating assembly.
Still, machine shop costs would be around 500 to 800 and balancing 200-350. Plus $100ish for bearings and $175ish for file fitting rings.
Our gasket kits with head bolts are one of the best priced out there and thats $330 also.
It all adds up even the small stuff. Especially if you cannot do any yourself.
I know machine shop costs can vary depending on geography and scope of work, but I think a bore, hone, and balance would be the minimum needed to get a block ready to build into a 408 and that’s less than $400 at the machine shop I use here in Conroe. I just priced out the internals for less than $1900, including a K1 crank, Scat rods, Summit pistons, pins, rings, and King bearings, so thats less than $2300 total. The remaining $1500 budget should cover the little stuff.
I’m not trying to argue just to argue, I’m just looking at the minimum price it can be done for, but obviously it can cost way more depending on the parts and how much work you’re willing to do.