Were did I go wrong with my engine combo
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From: Mississippi
of course every company is going to direct you towards a cam they make.
who done the Tuning ? That would be my first step. Making sure I had a good tuner and not some shade tree ****, which sounds like what you have
who done the Tuning ? That would be my first step. Making sure I had a good tuner and not some shade tree ****, which sounds like what you have
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The Titan 4 from cam motion would be something I would look at if you mainly street drive the car? It's 227/232 113+4 would have a nice rumpity idle in a 383 without being hard to drive.It probably would want to shift around 6400-6500. Would probably make 440 wheel or better but with 4 degrees of overlap be a breeze to tune!
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I have a hard time believing it's is the tune. 20+ degrees overlap at .050 is way too much for an efi 383. That's a lot for even an ls2 402/408. When i called Texas speed they told me to NOT buy the 244/248 stroker cam because driveability would be too poor (meaning surging) and a mid 230s cam would drive better and still make great power. You can't tune out a mechanical function of the valve events.
Again, it depends on goals and expectations. If you expect it to drive like stock, not happening. If you expect it to hold a steady idle and run from a cold start, that is entirely possible with a good tune. Messing with EOIT and running a hybrid tune with an OL idle with a "leaner" AFR and adjust the IAC passage/TB hole all go a long way towards street manners on an engine like this.
Originally Posted by Alvin Smith
The Titan 4 from cam motion would be something I would look at if you mainly street drive the car? It's 227/232 113+4 would have a nice rumpity idle in a 383 without being hard to drive.It probably would want to shift around 6400-6500. Would probably make 440 wheel or better but with 4 degrees of overlap be a breeze to tune!
The cam the OP has needs rpm. And it needs compression. That cam can be made to work. Add compression and shorter runner intake. Rev it out and make power. Easier to swap cam. But go too small and you just made a tow truck motor.
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Again, it depends on goals and expectations. If you expect it to drive like stock, not happening. If you expect it to hold a steady idle and run from a cold start, that is entirely possible with a good tune. Messing with EOIT and running a hybrid tune with an OL idle with a "leaner" AFR and adjust the IAC passage/TB hole all go a long way towards street manners on an engine like this.
Right but that doesn't change the fact it is way overcammed and it will have make more average power and drive better with the new cam he selected. Way waste time getting short runners and different heads to accommodate a cam that wants to rev to 7k+ when he is already upset about how it drives. My gut tells me he wants is a daily drive able torquey motor that still makes great times at the track . If he nails down his suspension/traction he will be good to go. Add a wet kit if you want to go faster.
We know nothing of spark advance, AFR, etc. and know it wasn't rev'd high enough for the setup.
We also know the shop screwed him "I had about 15k budget for the hole build the 383 was 8500$ and I did the Machine work and Assembly"
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It doesn't matter if 11.4:1 is not exactly stock it isn't enough, he would need at least 12:1 and a bigger stall to come onto cam harder. Sure swapping intakes is easy but that will make the low end even worse. We can read between the lines to find out what his expectations are. If he is complaining about the driving characteristics above, he obviously wants the opposite of that. And yes, for a cam that will behave and not experience any real driveability issues, that cam is too big for his expectations and for his combo. This is a very typical case here.
Less than a point in CR isn't going to solve his problems. Do you know the OP? You are ASSuming he wants the exact opposite of what he has, without actually knowing how it drives or the expectations. Again, drivability can likely be significantly improved with a tune. Not everybody wants a car that drives exactly like stock.....especially with a goal of 500whp. There is always a compromise. There is zero point in swapping a cam if the tune still sucks...
That is my guess -- TSP specced the cam to hit 500. There is an undeniable sacrifice to hit 500 rwhp.
That said, 237 intake cams have done it on 346s. Stands to reason it would also do it on a 383. No need to run a 242 unless it is a solid roller and drops to 237 hot due to lash.
That said, 237 intake cams have done it on 346s. Stands to reason it would also do it on a 383. No need to run a 242 unless it is a solid roller and drops to 237 hot due to lash.
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That is my guess -- TSP specced the cam to hit 500. There is an undeniable sacrifice to hit 500 rwhp.
That said, 237 intake cams have done it on 346s. Stands to reason it would also do it on a 383. No need to run a 242 unless it is a solid roller and drops to 237 hot due to lash.
That said, 237 intake cams have done it on 346s. Stands to reason it would also do it on a 383. No need to run a 242 unless it is a solid roller and drops to 237 hot due to lash.
Last edited by Bspeck82; Jun 4, 2019 at 09:43 AM.
That is my guess -- TSP specced the cam to hit 500. There is an undeniable sacrifice to hit 500 rwhp.
That said, 237 intake cams have done it on 346s. Stands to reason it would also do it on a 383. No need to run a 242 unless it is a solid roller and drops to 237 hot due to lash.
That said, 237 intake cams have done it on 346s. Stands to reason it would also do it on a 383. No need to run a 242 unless it is a solid roller and drops to 237 hot due to lash.
Originally Posted by ddnspider
Yep, 500whp NA is going to sacrifice something, but goals are goals.....every thing else is an assumption. I agree the cam isn't the first choice, but there's no point in swapping cams if your tuner doesn't have a clue how to make the car stay running lol.
Drove me nuts until I saw the hole. 
You should have some one else tune the car before changing the cam. The cam in my 6.0 has 24 degrees overlap with the same compression as you, car idles at 850 rpm and drives well. never dyno'd it but puts stock ls3 injectors at 100% duty cycle.
It's the tune. I drove a cam almost that big in a 346. It took a long time to make it work right. But it did.
Also, I would leave the cam in there. You aren't changing the cam enough for it to matter. If you can make the 237/245 cam idle and behave, you can make the bigger cam do the same thing.
I would change the converter and go with a PT4000 or an FTI 4000 or a CircleD 2E 4200. That stall is garbage for that combo.
I'd probably swap the heads to the MAST 240 LS3s. Just for ***** and giggles. Even with the shitty tune it'd pick up 20HP. And then run a FAST Medium Runner LS3 intake. Rev to 7500. Enjoy 500.
Also, I would leave the cam in there. You aren't changing the cam enough for it to matter. If you can make the 237/245 cam idle and behave, you can make the bigger cam do the same thing.
I would change the converter and go with a PT4000 or an FTI 4000 or a CircleD 2E 4200. That stall is garbage for that combo.
I'd probably swap the heads to the MAST 240 LS3s. Just for ***** and giggles. Even with the shitty tune it'd pick up 20HP. And then run a FAST Medium Runner LS3 intake. Rev to 7500. Enjoy 500.