Rickys2003svt.cobra

I built an 383 ls1 trickflow 220s Fast 102 intake /tb tsp custom grind cam speced for my engine, 242/250 duration / .365/.353 -.620/.600 @ 113 lobe separation 1&17/8 long tubes and full tsp duel exhaust , yank 3600 stall. 9in with 3:89 gears , my t/a made 448/430 to the ground on a dyno jet , they tuned it speed density , the car feels real gutless driving around, won’t idle, even @ wot car feel like a dog , could it be the tune or is it over cammed? I called BTR the other day and they recommend there stage 4 cam .

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

I'm not a cam guru but that cam seems to have a lot of duration but should not feel doggy with your stall and gear. Tune could be part of it.

stockA4

How's it run at the track?

Rickys2003svt.cobra

I didn’t run it at the track yet, but on the street ,it ‘s seems to have no power,

Utinator

I won't claim to be an engine expert either, but I also think the cam is way too big. From what I have seen, the bigger cams make more hp at high rpms, but not much down low. If you are just driving around town, you are not using the "power band" that the cam is designed for. You probably never get the engine up to the rpms where you will actually feel the power. You would need about a 5k stall converter to get that cam up to it's power band.

If it were my car, I'd ditch that monster cam, and go with the BTR stage 2, or maybe stage 3. The smaller cams seem to make more "usable" hp and torque for daily driving.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I'd put a BTR stage 3 cam in there. It should feel like a rocket ship.

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

Well no matter what if it made 448rwhp that shouldnt feel slow by any means... for a 383 that cam is big but not HUGE
What rpm is it shifting at?
Wont idle is in the tune obviously
A high stall car will feel gutless at low speed because of the loose converter

Utinator

I don't care how good of a tuner you are, that car is not gonna idle worth a damn with that much overlap. Your tuner's skills can't compensate for poor mechanical combinations. Get a smaller cam, and you will be able to enjoy your ride. It will probably make more power with a smaller cam too.

Bspeck82

Cam is 10 degrees too big and the fast 102 tb is garbage. It's known to have idle issues. nicD knows all about it. A NW TB will have much better idle characteristics and tune easier and a smaller cam will be more make a lot more torque down low and idle nicer. Bigger is not always better.

Rickys2003svt.cobra

I shifted at 6500 rpms , the only reason I put this cam in is when I called tsp to have a cam that would work good on the street and make good power , and this cam would need a 3500 stall ,

Rickys2003svt.cobra

The car idles fine in park it’s acts up when I’m driving slow coming to a red light Or stop sign

Bad346

That cam isn't that big for a 383ci in my opinion, especially with the 3600 stall and 3.89 gear combo. I've seen people run similar cams in H/C/I 346ci engines on the street and those cars were definitely quick so in a 383ci I definitely wouldn't expect it to be a dog? To be honest I wouldn't even expect the idle to be 'super' lumpy with the 113 lsa, let alone struggling to idle and the dyno numbers look a little low for a stroker with nearly all the fruit too - not that I usually pay them much attention but it all does add up. Just my 2c..

Rickys2003svt.cobra

Btr did recommend There stage 4. Should I call Tick or another cam company, to see what they recommend ?

98CayenneT/A

You need to shift a whole hell of a lot higher than 6500 rpms. And you need more than a yank ss3600.
I shift my combo in sig at 7100 rpms and run a Pt4400.

When it acts up is it while coasting or is your foot on the brake?

98CayenneT/A

I run a cam with 17.5 degrees overlap in my 346 and my car drives and idles beautiful.

98CayenneT/A

Shifting at 6500 your combo has probably yet to peak. That combined with a to small stall and low shift extensions probably are not doing you any favors. Your shift extensions are probably around 5000-5200 rpms.
Now look at your dyno graph and see how much power you're making at 5000 rpms. Probably not much.

I would guess a 3600 was the minimum needed to have good driving characteristics but if you're looking to keep power in the wheel house you need to spin much higher and go with more converter.

Here is what im talking about. My combo with 7100 shift points and 4400 stall.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

When you dynod what rpm were peak tq and hp? Typically a LS with stock length runners is going to peak 4800 and 6300. That will also usually result in numbers like 480/430. Bigger increase in power vs torque. Seems like your power may have peaked early and fallen?

Also what compression ratio?

Utinator

That one has too much overlap for me, but I didn't build a "race car". I actually drive mine to work almost every work day. There's no way I'd have a BTR stage-4 in my car. The stage-2 is the biggest I would go.

What do you plan on doing with this car? If this is a race-only car, then just keep the cam. It won't matter how it idles or drives if you only need it to go a 1/4 mile at a time. If you plan on driving it around town, and not at the track, then get a much smaller cam. The BTR stage-2 would work well with your other parts, and make more "usable" hp/tq.

Rickys2003svt.cobra

My goal for the car was a n/a 500 wrhp car that I can daily drive and run low 11s , The shop who put the car together for me kinda steered me away from selling the Supercharger that was on my t/a when dropped it off to them the original plan was going to be an ls3 bottom end and a trickflow 255s heads and ls3 intake , I had about 15k budget for the hole build the 383 was 8500$ and I did the Machine work and Assembly , the transmission was 2000 and the built 9in was 3500ish + labor and tuning

SoCalDave

I agree. You have too much cam for the street. You have a lot of duration at .050" while 224 @ .050" would more streetable number. With so much duration you need a lot of compression, a top-notch intake, etc. Maybe change the cam to something with less duration. Good luck.