Had to go 0.065 over LQ4 6.0 block =11:1cr 376" for less than $1000 all day build
#182
TECH Regular
Glad to hear, I'm going to put 15w 40 engine running in oil I have in my LS1 but I think I'll heat it up first on stove then put it in my car drive it immediately for a long drive to run it in, then drain it all and put 5w 40 in it.
#183
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
I like stockA4 s thread a lot, Its great to see someone who can do it like he has and get a good result but I dont like the way the thread degenerated either.
Quote:
"really exciting is how well the old lifters pump at low RPM with the thicker stuff, there's a reason Valvoline makes 20w50vr1"
The 20w50VR1 you mention is a racing oil, it would likely be bad for lifters long term as it has very little cleaning ability for sludge removal and deposits compaired to a conventional oil for road use. Sludge build up and deposits are one of the major causes of lifter failure.
Some lifters like for example the Hylift 2148 SE have tolerances of only 1/30 the thickness of a human hair.
If you think about it makes sence a racing engine has much shorter service intervals between oil changes and it often isn't very long before they pulled down for refleshing and steam cleaned so an oils cleaning ability isn't as big of a consideration if at all.
It's best to use an oil that is application specific there is a lot of science that goes into it. All the racing oils I have checked have low levels of detergent. Most of the racing oils are not legal for road use although the VR1 in link here is an exception and is. Again they are application specific!
https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
Quote:
"really exciting is how well the old lifters pump at low RPM with the thicker stuff, there's a reason Valvoline makes 20w50vr1"
The 20w50VR1 you mention is a racing oil, it would likely be bad for lifters long term as it has very little cleaning ability for sludge removal and deposits compaired to a conventional oil for road use. Sludge build up and deposits are one of the major causes of lifter failure.
Some lifters like for example the Hylift 2148 SE have tolerances of only 1/30 the thickness of a human hair.
If you think about it makes sence a racing engine has much shorter service intervals between oil changes and it often isn't very long before they pulled down for refleshing and steam cleaned so an oils cleaning ability isn't as big of a consideration if at all.
It's best to use an oil that is application specific there is a lot of science that goes into it. All the racing oils I have checked have low levels of detergent. Most of the racing oils are not legal for road use although the VR1 in link here is an exception and is. Again they are application specific!
https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
#185
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
the 6.0 Lq4 Block was free, I just had to pull it out of my friends truck. #7 piston came apart, it was a mess.
It got a $300 bore and hone and the machinist also gave me a good used set of floating pin rods for nothing, awesome dude.
The 04' L59 crank was also free, it came out of my 5.3 suburban that I bought with a spun cam bearing. I made a thread about it lol.
Main bearings and cam bearings are original to the Lq4, I used some used rod bearings from a spare 4.8 I had lying around to match the rest of the worn bearings of the Lq4.
The pistons are silvolite LS3 replacement flat tops., I got them from summit for $248
Rings are sealed power LS3 replacements, $132.99 from summit.
head gaskets are the WS6-store 0.045 6.0-6.2 specials $60 iirc
the entire valvetrain, Camshaft, lifters, pushrods, and rockers Came off the 4.8. so Free. The cam was something I got in a previous trade so it was a free cam in the first engine lol
Heads are used, but in good condition from Craigslist, pulled from a 99 firebird LS1, 853 castings $75
Ls6 springs $79
Fel-Pro valvestem seals $22 iirc
Head bolts $40
oil galley plug was $11.99
M295 oil pump was about $75 iirc but I can't find the receipt for it, it could be a little more.
so that puts it a little more than 1g for the whole deal minus fluids but I spent a few more bucks there trying to figure out what kinda oil it likes lol
I re-used everything else, all the old gaskets, pans, and covers from the place holder 4.8, went on the new 6.2
It's really quiet with the stock manifolds still on it and just a magnaflow muffler, but I've got a new exhaust setup in the works. I may never paint it lol
Last edited by stockA4; 05-08-2020 at 02:08 AM.
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G Atsma (05-18-2020)
#187
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
706 heads from the old 4.8L that I had in the car originally are back on, These have 40k mile ls6 springs (one is new), fel-pro hat seals and some blistered paint from their 5 year old junkyard freshening for mods
My original plan was to use 706 heads on this lq4 engine that I was building so I finally decided put them on and they are awesome.
Here's how you do a stock tourqe converter stock rpm range some justice folks, still has the 2.73's behind it as well.
It's a LQ4 with silvolite 4.0662 LS3 flat top pistons, Comp 212/218 .558/.563 115lsa +0 straight up dot to dot, stock unported #706 heads (castech marked because it's me of course lol) ls6 intake and some random Craigslist headers
#190
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
I've raced a few sportsman brackets with my 5.7L camaro and I've been using this one with my homemade 6.2L to deliver pizza and get groceries. The 5.7 has a longer duration cam, a nice 3600 converter and 3.73 gears. It's well into the 11's I have many time slips posted on here and a lengthy thread about it however the admins have yet to add me to the 11 second club or I just don't know how to fix my avatar I don't know but this car I mashed together still with its 2.73 gear and stock torque converter is also a bit heavier. I'm going to try it at the track this year with the same nitto drag radials I use on my 5.7 and see what happens. I imagine it may struggle to ET as well as my other car but it will definitely show more pizzazz on the big end of the track with the extra cubes and compression
#193
TECH Apprentice
#194
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
The drivetrain is still à completely stock from the flexplate back and the car has several deficits including, the fact that the it is lowered at least 2", and it is at least 100lbs heavier than stock so given the DA that day and the restricted exhaust (eBay headers and a single inlet magnaflow 12267 with 2 1/4 tailpipes ) I'm still pleased with its performance so far. stock LS1 camaros go mid-high 13's @ 101-103mph at My track under the same conditions. I've added some cut outs behind the header collectors and I'm going to go back and try again and see how much more mph it will show. It's only shifting first to second at 6100 and second to third at 5800. The original 4L60E is still kicking strong with over 212, XXX miles
Last edited by stockA4; 10-15-2020 at 02:08 PM.
#198
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
look closely at this time slip all the information is included on it it's on the app at the drag strip I race at worldwide technology raceway in East St Louis the car in the left lane is also mine it's a 2002 Z28 with the original LS1 a 226/230 cam, 3600 stall, 3.73's and some good bolt-ons while The car in the right lane is a completely stock 2.73 geared 98 Z28 ls1. The DA is just below 1,000 ft and yet both cars could be doing a little bit better. This track is just a heartbreaker everyone knows it
#199
TECH Regular
Looks about 2 seconds difference to me, I would think that is quite bit.
I'd like to test mine on quarter mile but its manual and I almost always chirp the tyres launching, I think I would be slower than an auto no matter how much practice I had.
Do both vehicles have similar compression?
I'd like to test mine on quarter mile but its manual and I almost always chirp the tyres launching, I think I would be slower than an auto no matter how much practice I had.
Do both vehicles have similar compression?
#200
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Looks about 2 seconds difference to me, I would think that is quite bit.
I'd like to test mine on quarter mile but its manual and I almost always chirp the tyres launching, I think I would be slower than an auto no matter how much practice I had.
Do both vehicles have similar compression?
I'd like to test mine on quarter mile but its manual and I almost always chirp the tyres launching, I think I would be slower than an auto no matter how much practice I had.
Do both vehicles have similar compression?