Had to go 0.065 over LQ4 6.0 block =11:1cr 376" for less than $1000 all day build
03-03-2020, 08:07 PM
#141
03-03-2020, 08:15 PM
#142
Be careful of who you think you know.
03-03-2020, 08:15 PM
#143
They dont use VR1 for real racing engines and 20/50 is a very poor choice of oil for an ls. 10/30 or 10/40 at most. If you have to run 20/50 to bring up oil pressure or make noises stop, its not the oil thats the problem.
They make vr1 in straight 40wt 50wt and 60wt also. The idea that if they make it then you can use it for XX build is wrong.
They use VR1 because they are still under the train of thought that it still has more zddp in it than other brands, which i am pretty sure has not been true since about 2010 or 2012.
Bobistheoilguy is the best forum and research for that. Any other place is going to give you biased info and results. Trusting any oil company to give you unskewed results is like trusting the water in Mexico.
As far as 1/30th of a human hair? Im going to have to say thats wrong also. Human hairs avg .001" MAYBE. So .00033? No.
They make vr1 in straight 40wt 50wt and 60wt also. The idea that if they make it then you can use it for XX build is wrong.
They use VR1 because they are still under the train of thought that it still has more zddp in it than other brands, which i am pretty sure has not been true since about 2010 or 2012.
Bobistheoilguy is the best forum and research for that. Any other place is going to give you biased info and results. Trusting any oil company to give you unskewed results is like trusting the water in Mexico.
As far as 1/30th of a human hair? Im going to have to say thats wrong also. Human hairs avg .001" MAYBE. So .00033? No.
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00pooterSS (03-03-2020)
03-03-2020, 08:26 PM
#144
Quote by Jayssz28
The bearings are pressure fed.
I said twice I was referring to the rod bearings which are splash fed,
The 5w is the cold start protection when the oil is at its thickest before in thins with heat, while the oil is heating up to operating temp it still needs to replenish all the bearings continually with oil it would be risky to rely on residual oil from the last heat cycle to do this.
There is a lot of science that goes into oil specs, don't mess with it if you want to get the best out of your engine. 20w-50w deviates greatly from the correct weight for cold start protection.
The bearings are pressure fed.
I said twice I was referring to the rod bearings which are splash fed,
The 5w is the cold start protection when the oil is at its thickest before in thins with heat, while the oil is heating up to operating temp it still needs to replenish all the bearings continually with oil it would be risky to rely on residual oil from the last heat cycle to do this.
There is a lot of science that goes into oil specs, don't mess with it if you want to get the best out of your engine. 20w-50w deviates greatly from the correct weight for cold start protection.
Y'all, he's talking about the small end, not the big end
03-03-2020, 08:28 PM
#145
TECH Regular
Yes 20-50 is a poor choice, a search on net will show almost all if not all oils listed as Racing oils whether or not they are actually used in racing often if not always state they are low in detergents.
As for the low tolerance in a slow leak down lifter like the Hylift 2148 SE the info was direct from the Hylift Johnson PDF file on there slow leak lifter for the LS1 and SBC as quoted below.
Quote
These lifters are very hard to produce because the TOTAL
clearance between the I.D. of the Body and the Piston assembly is reduced to less than
0.000120”, or 1/30 of a human hair.
As for the low tolerance in a slow leak down lifter like the Hylift 2148 SE the info was direct from the Hylift Johnson PDF file on there slow leak lifter for the LS1 and SBC as quoted below.
Quote
These lifters are very hard to produce because the TOTAL
clearance between the I.D. of the Body and the Piston assembly is reduced to less than
0.000120”, or 1/30 of a human hair.
Last edited by TimsLS1; 03-03-2020 at 08:46 PM.
03-03-2020, 08:40 PM
#146
TECH Regular
Quote
Y'all, he's talking about the small end, not the big end
No it was a mistake I did consider the small end but I was primarily thinking of the big end end, but thanks for bringing it up, the oil in the small end may not be replenished with the wrong oil in it until it reaches operating temperature, could cause a bit of ratling, the tolerance on my rods small end is even finer than the big ends.
Y'all, he's talking about the small end, not the big end
No it was a mistake I did consider the small end but I was primarily thinking of the big end end, but thanks for bringing it up, the oil in the small end may not be replenished with the wrong oil in it until it reaches operating temperature, could cause a bit of ratling, the tolerance on my rods small end is even finer than the big ends.
03-03-2020, 08:44 PM
#147
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00pooterSS (03-04-2020)
03-03-2020, 09:01 PM
#149
There is no bearing on the small end. Its either press fit or bushed.
Hardly anyone has heard of the 2148 SE and afaik they have been on back order for a while, so why even bring them up?
The S are available i believe though. I dont have anything that precise to measure them.
Hardly anyone has heard of the 2148 SE and afaik they have been on back order for a while, so why even bring them up?
The S are available i believe though. I dont have anything that precise to measure them.
03-03-2020, 09:16 PM
#150
TECH Regular
Quote
There is no bearing on the small end. Its either press fit or bushed.
It still needs to have the oil replenished
I've used 2148 SE recently and also blsnelling, they have been discussed a lot recently on the forum. Do you disagree with my posts? Why do you ask? why bring them up? My wider point was they need to be kept clean whatever they are.
There is no bearing on the small end. Its either press fit or bushed.
It still needs to have the oil replenished
I've used 2148 SE recently and also blsnelling, they have been discussed a lot recently on the forum. Do you disagree with my posts? Why do you ask? why bring them up? My wider point was they need to be kept clean whatever they are.
Last edited by TimsLS1; 03-03-2020 at 09:22 PM.
03-03-2020, 09:24 PM
#152
TECH Regular
Hey 00pooterSS
Because as has just been pointed out above by tech@w6store they are not bearings on the small end.
Dont worry about it, I'm not, I appreciate your input.
tech@w6store
You said I was wrong below, but you were unable to validate that I was wrong, in fact you said you couldn't.
Quote tech@w6store
As far as 1/30th of a human hair? Im going to have to say thats wrong also
Quote tech@w6store
I dont have anything that precise to measure them.
Because as has just been pointed out above by tech@w6store they are not bearings on the small end.
Dont worry about it, I'm not, I appreciate your input.
tech@w6store
You said I was wrong below, but you were unable to validate that I was wrong, in fact you said you couldn't.
Quote tech@w6store
As far as 1/30th of a human hair? Im going to have to say thats wrong also
Quote tech@w6store
I dont have anything that precise to measure them.
Last edited by TimsLS1; 03-03-2020 at 10:42 PM.
03-03-2020, 10:23 PM
#153
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
The house Brand is what I actually run in this thing. It's out there now lurking under the hood of my unassuming little camaro, driving you all crazy. Turn the key and it drums to life instantly. The engine settles down to a placidly low 550 RPM idle in less than a minute or two on even very cold days. Muffled through the stock manifolds, magnaflow, and stock rectangles, those big LS3 flat tops smash those stock LS1 Chambers in a beautiful way, It sounds like a T-Rex digesting a triceratops and It's been like a rock since December guys, we are putting 2-300 miles on it a week I have no regrets I'm just gonna keep enjoying it.
03-03-2020, 10:39 PM
#154
TECH Regular
Why would you think it would drive us all crazy?
Using the wrong oil is about as common as the millions who dont use sun protection on a day with a high UV index.
No and I don't want to see photos of you not using Sun protection 😉
Using the wrong oil is about as common as the millions who dont use sun protection on a day with a high UV index.
No and I don't want to see photos of you not using Sun protection 😉
Last edited by TimsLS1; 03-03-2020 at 11:11 PM.
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G Atsma (03-03-2020)
03-04-2020, 01:37 AM
#155
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=tech@WS6store;20218166]They dont use VR1 for real racing engines and 20/50 is a very poor choice of oil for an ls. 10/30 or 10/40 at most. If you have to run 20/50 to bring up oil pressure or make noises stop, its not the oil thats the problem.
They make vr1 in straight 40wt 50wt and 60wt also. The idea that if they make it then you can use it for XX build is wrong.
I've been doing my own research for a while and I've seen that most aftermarket builders want to see at least 25-30psi from a rebuilt engine at idle no matter what the viscosity is (I know, I know my cam only 110k mile LS1 still gets 40psi with 5w30)
I think I could get away with 10w40 or 10w30 in the winter here but it's starting to get warmer so I'll leave the thick stuff in there for now to be safe. Remember that I'm just running a newly bored block with all the original and well worn main, and cam bearings, and a different crank from a completely different engine. Different used rods, and used rod bearings from another engine even! It just has new pistons and rings in there. Hindsight at this point I should probably have got a high volume melling instead of the standard 295, still it gets 30-35psi at a hot idle with the 20w50 and it was still close to 15-20psi with 5w30 and still quiet as a mouse either way so I'm really just trying to be safe and keep it alive while I continue to drive it and sort it out.
Thanks for the headgaskets though they are great and I'm sure they are the only thing keeping this mechanical nightmare from detonating. I also have your 255 drop in pump in this car, I don't think I mentioned that before but it sucks because the stock 02' injectors are maxed out by 6k anyways and I haven't even put headers on it yet lol
They make vr1 in straight 40wt 50wt and 60wt also. The idea that if they make it then you can use it for XX build is wrong.
I've been doing my own research for a while and I've seen that most aftermarket builders want to see at least 25-30psi from a rebuilt engine at idle no matter what the viscosity is (I know, I know my cam only 110k mile LS1 still gets 40psi with 5w30)
I think I could get away with 10w40 or 10w30 in the winter here but it's starting to get warmer so I'll leave the thick stuff in there for now to be safe. Remember that I'm just running a newly bored block with all the original and well worn main, and cam bearings, and a different crank from a completely different engine. Different used rods, and used rod bearings from another engine even! It just has new pistons and rings in there. Hindsight at this point I should probably have got a high volume melling instead of the standard 295, still it gets 30-35psi at a hot idle with the 20w50 and it was still close to 15-20psi with 5w30 and still quiet as a mouse either way so I'm really just trying to be safe and keep it alive while I continue to drive it and sort it out.
Thanks for the headgaskets though they are great and I'm sure they are the only thing keeping this mechanical nightmare from detonating. I also have your 255 drop in pump in this car, I don't think I mentioned that before but it sucks because the stock 02' injectors are maxed out by 6k anyways and I haven't even put headers on it yet lol
03-04-2020, 07:41 AM
#156
03-04-2020, 07:50 AM
#157
03-04-2020, 09:48 AM
#158
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Here's some interesting things I can say for certain about the lifters in my 376 that I just put together like Lego in my living room.
They originally came in the j/y 2002 model year 4.8 lr4 the 376 just replaced. I have No idea how many original miles before I got it but they looked fine. I just put about 40,000 on them with that comp 54-424-11 and they saw 7200rpm more than a few times at autocross events and I shifted it at 66-6700 regularly. I just pulled them out with my pliers and shoved them in the 376 with the same stick. I have piles of spare stock lifters bathing in oil and if I ever manage to break one I will let you know but even then I would only replace the individual offending lifters and the camshaft if it was damaged.
03-04-2020, 11:05 AM
#159
The house Brand is what I actually run in this thing. It's out there now lurking under the hood of my unassuming little camaro, driving you all crazy. Turn the key and it drums to life instantly. The engine settles down to a placidly low 550 RPM idle in less than a minute or two on even very cold days. Muffled through the stock manifolds, magnaflow, and stock rectangles, those big LS3 flat tops smash those stock LS1 Chambers in a beautiful way, It sounds like a T-Rex digesting a triceratops and It's been like a rock since December guys, we are putting 2-300 miles on it a week I have no regrets I'm just gonna keep enjoying it.
What's fucl?
Edit: on my comment to Tim, I forgot to put a lol or a smiley face.
03-04-2020, 12:22 PM
#160
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
If those welds on my intake blow, or anything else on this build breaks, you all can rest assured that I will fix it with the same kind of grueled syphilitic disdain as a one eyed whiskey addled civil war battlefield surgeon