Had to go 0.065 over LQ4 6.0 block =11:1cr 376" for less than $1000 all day build
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Quote by Jayssz28
The bearings are pressure fed.
I said twice I was referring to the rod bearings which are splash fed,
The 5w is the cold start protection when the oil is at its thickest before in thins with heat, while the oil is heating up to operating temp it still needs to replenish all the bearings continually with oil it would be risky to rely on residual oil from the last heat cycle to do this.
There is a lot of science that goes into oil specs, don't mess with it if you want to get the best out of your engine. 20w-50w deviates greatly from the correct weight for cold start protection.
The bearings are pressure fed.
I said twice I was referring to the rod bearings which are splash fed,
The 5w is the cold start protection when the oil is at its thickest before in thins with heat, while the oil is heating up to operating temp it still needs to replenish all the bearings continually with oil it would be risky to rely on residual oil from the last heat cycle to do this.
There is a lot of science that goes into oil specs, don't mess with it if you want to get the best out of your engine. 20w-50w deviates greatly from the correct weight for cold start protection.
Last edited by TimsLS1; 03-02-2020 at 04:33 PM.
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I'll take something for my pain, sorry G. Tim don't worry I'm testing in St Louis were it gets very cold. You shouldn't worry about my rod bearings though they are already worn funny from the 4.8 they used to live in. What's really exciting is how well the old lifters pump at low RPM with the thicker stuff, there's a reason Valvoline makes 20w50vr1
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Maybe G Atsma can kindly explain to you what the hole in the crank journal where the connecting rod goes is for.
Ok my mistake and I apologise for posting something incorrect.
But you guys should still use the correct oil, the protection at cold temp is really important, I know it depends on your climate.
Maybe G Atsma can kindly explain to you what the hole in the crank journal where the connecting rod goes is for.
Ok my mistake and I apologise for posting something incorrect.
But you guys should still use the correct oil, the protection at cold temp is really important, I know it depends on your climate.
Last edited by TimsLS1; 03-02-2020 at 05:02 PM.
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The rod bearings would have no holes, being fed thru the journal, and being "the end of the line", the oil just spews out the sides of the bearing/journal interface.
The crank bearing holes are because the oil is fed from the block thru the bearing to the crank, the opposite of the rod bearing.
The crank bearing holes are because the oil is fed from the block thru the bearing to the crank, the opposite of the rod bearing.
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I don't have a psychology degree like A4 does, but I don't need one to be able to tell you really ride A4's nuts
Before you bro out on me, keep this in mind
Again, I'll refer to the days of before the internet.
Why are people so sensitive these days? I'm typing facts (things that have happened to me) How do you get "rude" out of words on a screen?
Personally I'd rather talk to someone whose blunt and to the point rather than some jerkoff thats just there to take your money and kisses your *** with fakeness..
Why are people so sensitive these days? I'm typing facts (things that have happened to me) How do you get "rude" out of words on a screen?
Personally I'd rather talk to someone whose blunt and to the point rather than some jerkoff thats just there to take your money and kisses your *** with fakeness..
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I like stockA4 s thread a lot, Its great to see someone who can do it like he has and get a good result but I dont like the way the thread degenerated either.
Quote:
"really exciting is how well the old lifters pump at low RPM with the thicker stuff, there's a reason Valvoline makes 20w50vr1"
The 20w50VR1 you mention is a racing oil, it would likely be bad for lifters long term as it has very little cleaning ability for sludge removal and deposits compaired to a conventional oil for road use. Sludge build up and deposits are one of the major causes of lifter failure.
Some lifters like for example the Hylift 2148 SE have tolerances of only 1/30 the thickness of a human hair.
If you think about it makes sence a racing engine has much shorter service intervals between oil changes and it often isn't very long before they pulled down for refleshing and steam cleaned so an oils cleaning ability isn't as big of a consideration if at all.
It's best to use an oil that is application specific there is a lot of science that goes into it. All the racing oils I have checked have low levels of detergent. Most of the racing oils are not legal for road use although the VR1 in link here is an exception and is. Again they are application specific!
https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
Quote:
"really exciting is how well the old lifters pump at low RPM with the thicker stuff, there's a reason Valvoline makes 20w50vr1"
The 20w50VR1 you mention is a racing oil, it would likely be bad for lifters long term as it has very little cleaning ability for sludge removal and deposits compaired to a conventional oil for road use. Sludge build up and deposits are one of the major causes of lifter failure.
Some lifters like for example the Hylift 2148 SE have tolerances of only 1/30 the thickness of a human hair.
If you think about it makes sence a racing engine has much shorter service intervals between oil changes and it often isn't very long before they pulled down for refleshing and steam cleaned so an oils cleaning ability isn't as big of a consideration if at all.
It's best to use an oil that is application specific there is a lot of science that goes into it. All the racing oils I have checked have low levels of detergent. Most of the racing oils are not legal for road use although the VR1 in link here is an exception and is. Again they are application specific!
https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
Last edited by TimsLS1; 03-03-2020 at 06:41 PM.