Titan 4 is starting to sound better to me every time i think of choosing a cam

 

Here's a thread I made a few months back asking a similar question for my build about cam selection. There were some great recommendations in there.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cam-build.html

The first page is a lot of talk about balancers lol.

 

Thanks man, good read, your build Is very close to mine, even down to the exhaust, i just bought a 4'' flowmaster merge and 4'' dmh cutout. 3 I also talked to BTR, they said they are going to change some things up with the cam specs. I'll update once I get the new revision.

 

What did you tell them in the email? That cam is going to be a bear to tune and drive. Not a daily driver cam by any means and it sounds like you will drive it a lot.

 

You will also need to look long and hard at the valvetrain if you end up with a high lift cam with high lobe intensity. I'd probably go with a 228/232 114 cam from cam motion or whatever you fav cam grinder is. Btr is good too.

 

I emailed them back and told them I didn't want a big nasty cammed, unenjoyable car to drive. Waiting to hear back

 

I'll be waiting to see what they tell you. Are you speaking with Brian or is it someone else at his company?

 

Nick Evdos is who ive been talking to.

 

Ok. Yeah not sure why they would recommend such a large overlap for a street car with no mention of gearing.

 

Sometimes there is miscommunication with a customer's needs. OP I would call cam motion and tell them what you have and how much you will honestly drive it vs track it. They won't steer you wrong. You dont need a custom cam either. This is a cookie cutter build so far. I would strongly suggest a converter before a cam. Most people won't be able to tell you have one and it will make do much more for you than a cam will. A good stall allows you to run a bigger cam without it pushing through the brakes as well. I daily a 222/228 113+4 with a 3600 and 3.90 gears and other than the lope and loud exhaust and smell, it drives effortlessly. I'd have gone bigger with the cam but I wasn't sure at the time.

 

Car is a 6 spd with Monster LT1-s twin disk

 

Ah okay must've missed the 6 speed part. My recommendations still stand. That cam they spec'd would've bucked at 6th and in parking lots. I'd also recommend calling TSP for a cam. They have lots of R&D in cams now and make them in house. Since they built the head and have all the data on it...when I asked them what cam to run because ls1tech recommended whatever cam it was at the time, they told me it was too big and would run like garbage.

 

BUCKING again comes down to tuning and gearing.

3.73 gears with 23X duration camshaft will be pretty bucky at lower speeds.

Put a 4.30 gear in the rear with that same 23X duration camshaft and your bucky rides goes away or be very little....

 

He said it was because in the cam sheet I said I wanted to make 450+ hp, my thinking was I wouldn't need a big nasty cam to make 450 with the PRC 225s and ported FAST. Either way, he is going to change the specs up for me, i'll update the thread once I get the new specs back.

 

Honestly the only reason why I wanted to go custom cam is because of the heads I'm using. I'm guessing that most cams are designed around stock casting heads with less flow, smaller valves etc. I just wanted to make sure the cam matches my setup. I'm sure most shelf cams would have sufficed but with the amount of money I have spent so far on this build I just wanted to make sure I do it right the first time.

 

That makes sense though we are thinking the same that a moderate cam should still make 450 with those heads and ported fast and especially through an m6.

 

Dont let them fool you a big cam can drive really nice, its all in the tuning. My car drives awesome and didnt lose any fuel mileage either.

 

Dont let this fool fool you. First off there is no sense in a big cam unless you are going to turn the rpm the big cam wants to turn and you need a valvetrain to handle it. If the heads, gears, valvetrain. Stall/clutch etc dont match then you have a car that drives poorly, sounds mean and is a dog at the strip. Build smart. Dont build for bench racing/peak power. And no, you cant tune out valve overlap, a mechanical function of the cam lobes.

 

clearly you dont know what youre talking about

 

If you think too much about it you will go crazy. If you want to learn about cam tech and about lobes, lift, intensity, acceleration and jerk there is plenty of info online as well as a great podcast with Billy godbold on The power and speed podcast. But when it comes down to it, just be honest to the tech on the phone with your goals, get the cam they say works for you and move on. Just my opinion.

http://readingtondigital.libsyn.com/...d-of-comp-cams