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I have been slowly building this car for a long time and on a tight-ish budget. Finally hit the dyno for the first tune (HPtuners on Mustang dyno) and was a bit lower than expected even though I knew numbers are typically lower on a Mustang.(315/312) So I am planning what to get next. Here is my current setup:
5.3 w/ stock (rotating assembly, 862 heads, injectors)
-Sikky mount kit, pan, 1 7/8 long tube headers
-ARP head bolts, rod bolts, crank bolt
-Texas Speed cam (pn 25-TSP223226R6111)
-Texas Speed pushrods (stock length)
-Dual timing chain set
-Melling oil pump
-Ls7 lifters
-Dual valve springs
-Titanium retainers
-ATI Super Damper
-Fast 90 intake
-Ported throttle body w/ Fast adapter plate
-Summit fuel rails
-Monster 18lb flywheel and clutch
Last edited by Drthomas430; Sep 25, 2019 at 07:35 AM.
I have been slowly building this car for a long time and on a tight-ish budget. Finally hit the dyno for the first tune (HPtuners on Mustang dyno) and was a bit lower than expected even though I knew numbers are typically lower on a Mustang.(315/312) So I am planning what to get next. Here is my current setup:
5.3 w/ stock (rotating assembly, 862 heads, injectors)
-Sikky mount kit, pan, 1 7/8 long tube headers
-ARP head bolts, rod bolts, crank bolt
-Texas Speed cam (pn 25-TSP223226R6111)
-Texas Speed pushrods (stock length) -Dual timing chain set
-Melling oil pump
-Ls7 lifters
-Dual valve springs
-Titanium retainers
-ATI Super Damper
-Fast 90 intake
-Ported throttle body w/ Fast adapter plate
-Summit fuel rails
-Monster 18lb flywheel and clutch
I checked off the mods that aren't doing anything for power. A lot of them are probably reducing it, or are completely unnecessary.
That leaves you with a stock 5.3 with:
-Long tubes
-223/226 111 LSA cam (guessing from the part number)
-Fast 90 with ported throttle body.
-Lightweight flywheel
Its probably around 425 crank HP.
That translates to 360whp on a dynojet (15% loss)
And then to 318whp on a mustang dyno (additional 12% loss).
I'd say that's right in line.
FYI, I did a 5.3 with a 222/225 112 LSA cam, single beehives, 1 3/4" long tubes, stock everything else, and a lot of time invested in the tune.
It did almost identical numbers on the engine dyno and then the chassis dyno but through a 4L60e and a locked converter.
I checked off the mods that aren't doing anything for power. A lot of them are probably reducing it, or are completely unnecessary.
That leaves you with a stock 5.3 with:
-Long tubes
-223/226 111 LSA cam (guessing from the part number)
-Fast 90 with ported throttle body.
-Lightweight flywheel
Its probably around 425 crank HP.
That translates to 360whp on a dynojet (15% loss)
And then to 318whp on a mustang dyno (additional 12% loss).
I'd say that's right in line.
FYI, I did a 5.3 with a 222/225 112 LSA cam, single beehives, 1 3/4" long tubes, stock everything else, and a lot of time invested in the tune.
It did almost identical numbers on the engine dyno and then the chassis dyno but through a 4L60e and a locked converter.
While I appreciate the breakdown and additional perspective, I was more looking for next step ideas. I am looking into heads and injectors but wanted some insight on choosing the best bang for my buck setup.
While I appreciate the breakdown and additional perspective, I was more looking for next step ideas. I am looking into heads and injectors but wanted some insight on choosing the best bang for my buck setup.
If you do the engine work yourself, upgrading to 4.8 flat top pistons will be your best bang for the buck.
You can score a set for probably $100 shipped and they'll give you roughly a full point increase in compression.
That cam is also pretty mild. You have to choose between driving manners and power at some point. Every cam I've used that is similar is size was extremely nice to drive in a 5.3.
You can keep the cam you have and have your stock heads ported, or go to a larger camshaft for similar gains with your stock heads, etc (assuming there is a budget).
Personally I wouldn’t even consider an upgrade at this point. Drive the car first. You aren’t the first guy to leave a dyno session with numbers seemingly low, but with perhaps a great driving car. Who cares what the dyno says? They are all different anyway. If you are happy with the way the car drives, leave it alone. If you aren’t, then let’s talk upgrades.
The ATI Balancer is worth about 7HP if it's an underdriven unit.
I'd just drive it and enjoy it. Mustang dynos can vary and usually are quite a bit lower than a DynoJet. Might be a 360rwhp DynoJet number, which is about right.
You can always add a 100-150 shot of nitrous on top if you need more later without changing the setup or breaking the bank.
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Initial tune and where to go from here? 
