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Not sure tracks weren't set to open for a few weeks still and now with all the craziness not sure what their plan is. But as soon as I can I'll be making my way there.
Damn you picked up 50 on the dot going from decent heads to TSP ported heads and a FAST intake. That's killer. Did you do anything else that I missed? What lid/intake setup is on it? Is there a MAF or did you do speed density? Remind me what your exhaust setup is again?
Also, good thing you went with letting the cam you have breathe over changing the cam. Cam swap would have got you next to nothing
Congrats on the new power man, can't wait to see what it ET's now
Did you ever do the kirkey seat or any further weight reduction?
Pulling the front seats and a couple of other things and you're gonna be below 2900. That thing should fly.
Still has the standard maf unfortunately but my tuner said he prefers to keep them for drivability and usually only costs a few hp. So I agreed on that. Has the slp lid but has the chris1313 sheet metal ram air set up hanging under the bumper.
But otherwise just heads and intake with 102 tb to match. Car has long tubes with axle dump true duals. Also old numbers were on a 10 bolt I now have the 9". Not sure if original Dyno was on standard size street tires or the 28'' DRs that are on there now.
Dyno numbers are just numbers but man this car pulls hard for a long time now, before right when it would pick up it would be shifting. Now it pulls and continues to pull up top hard.
Haven't messed with more weight reduction yet but have the kirkey ready to go in but also talking to local fab shop about getting a cage installed, so that will unfortunately pack some lbs back onto the car.
Still has the standard maf unfortunately but my tuner said he prefers to keep them for drivability and usually only costs a few hp. So I agreed on that. Has the slp lid but has the chris1313 sheet metal ram air set up hanging under the bumper.
But otherwise just heads and intake with 102 tb to match. Car has long tubes with axle dump true duals. Also old numbers were on a 10 bolt I now have the 9". Not sure if original Dyno was on standard size street tires or the 28'' DRs that are on there now.
Dyno numbers are just numbers but man this car pulls hard for a long time now, before right when it would pick up it would be shifting. Now it pulls and continues to pull up top hard.
Haven't messed with more weight reduction yet but have the kirkey ready to go in but also talking to local fab shop about getting a cage installed, so that will unfortunately pack some lbs back onto the car.
Agree numbers are numbers, but you're making a lot more of them now lol and it already did damn good at the track so i'm excited to see what it'll do now.
The run down on the setup sounds great, if the MAF is a bottle neck you can always get a larger housing and keep your maf and not kill off any flow. But judging by your numbers it's doing damn good enough.
Yeah the cage weight sucks but it needs it. Losing a little bit of ET isn't worth the risk of not running a cage IMO. Used to have a little different opinion (thought they were important but was also eh about it like yeah they good but oh well) then saw a few wrecks that killed people and was like who cares about going fast if you're dead.
Yea I thought the maf would be a choke point but it doesn't seem to be. I just feel silly having a 102 TB and stock what ever it is sized maf.
And for the cage I guess I'll have to figure out where to shed the weight that it adds, need to finish up my circle track car so I have it ready for the season if it happens.... And then I'll get back into doing some more work on this thing. Doesn't look like tracks around me will be doing anything anytime soon so I'll just keep beating it around on the streets.
Well did a little prep for the upcoming cage install. Fixed the duct tape and spray paint fuel pump access hole... and pulled the carpet and found a bit of a wiring mess. Most things look cut was planning to trace back and eliminate. Anything here I should be aware that I shouldn't remove or should repair? And then fitted the Kirkey seat, man carpet and power driver seat are not light. That will be a nice offset for the weight of the cage going in to keep those out.
Cut out and rip out what you aren't going to use. As for repairing the wiring my favorite repair is using the weather proof butt connectors. I used to solder and heat shrink everything before I found these.
They are also called crimp and heat shrink butt connectors. Get your self a good set of crimpers at the hardware store or online (not the flimsy 5 dollar ones) and get some good wire strippers like Kleins. You can get all this at home depot. And strip and crimp your connectors. I've seen so many cheapy butt connector connections pull apart etc and are just trash. But the heat shrink ones are made better, hold better and shrink and emit a sealant when you heat them. Just can't beat them for simplicity and reliability.
Edit: I'm not talking about those gimmicky heat/solder shrink but conectors (been seeing commercials for them, they're clear). The good ones are the standard color coded ones that are just shrink and seal only
I have a several sets of those connectors here one is Dorman brand and they call theirs weather proof. Another brand is Pico and they call theirs crimp heat shrink. Don't use a lighter to shrink them.. If you have a heat gun use that, if you don't heat guns are super cheap at harbor freight. I do a lot of auto wiring and these butt connectors are the best thing I've found for making easy, high quality, long lasting sealed connections
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 04-10-2020 at 04:13 PM.
Those are crimp and solder. I've never used those but I'm not sure if I trust a solder joint that just uses light heat. I've done a ton of soldering on wiring and pipe in my life and solder doesn't stick until the wire or pipe is really hot. So those connectors that "solder" using light heat makes me feel like it isn't a good connection. I could be wrong. But I just don't like that.
And I don't think those have the sealant in them
The pico crimp heat shrink do though, which is not the same as the ones in that link.
And the dorman weatherproof ones do.
So like these. These expel a sealent when they are heated, they shrink and seal and make a water proof connection. It appears they are called marine connectors, which makes sense
I would also de-pin and pins that go to wires you aren't going to use. Not just cut the tip of the wire off cause then you'll have exposed wiring that could possibly short out.
Yea this was all balled up in the pass side, most likely going to depin what ever is cut up anyways and ditch it. Just wasn't sure what that size plug went to to begin with.
Edit: looking at the pic again it almost looks like radio wiring, I could be wrong.. hopefully get some time to mess with it tomorrow. Shop was full and car was sitting in the driveway and we got 5" of snow, fingers crossed for some warmer weather.
Looks good! I'm looking for a cheap labeler to label wires. The LW-PX700 is nice but more than what I want to spend for something that won't get used that much.
Looks good! I'm looking for a cheap labeler to label wires. The LW-PX700 is nice but more than what I want to spend for something that won't get used that much.
I've never used a wire labeling tool so I couldn't begin to recommend one. I've just always ended up using tape and a permanent marker. It's sloppy, but the price is right for sure lol.
03-16-2020, 05:10 PM
