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because the gaskets Bore hole is much larger than it needs to be and you lose a little bit of compression and that dead space might increase detonation sensitivity. Splitting hairs maybe buy everything adds up. Attention to details is what sets some apart from others.
Thats not the point. The point is the std 8544 mls gaskets aren't failing and are $45 for a set. Why try to over engineer and spend more money when its not necessary and would not change the outcome.
Got my valves in today. Whew, that was cutting it close. I’ll be able to button up the motor tonight and maybe drop it in tomorrow. I’m pretty impressed with these valves. Swirl polished. Stainless, back cut right before the seat. Necked down stem. And $58 shipped.
because the gaskets Bore hole is much larger than it needs to be and you lose a little bit of compression and that dead space might increase detonation sensitivity. Splitting hairs maybe buy everything adds up. Attention to details is what sets some apart from others.
You should match the gasket to the chamber, not the bore. Too small a gasket hurts flow. Chamber will likely be a tad bigger.
You should match the gasket to the chamber, not the bore. Too small a gasket hurts flow. Chamber will likely be a tad bigger.
I agree. I checked it. They match up well. I had those fel pro gaskets and I test fit and compared because I thought the chamber would be bigger. Luckily it’s not.
edit. I just measured. You were right. Chamber is 3.9” wide and bore is 3.8”.
Well son of a bitch. I accidentally ordered 2.02 valves. That’s what I get for getting in a hurry. I lapped one in and the seat contacts where it should do I’m gonna send it. I checked install height and it’s only .025 lower. .010 larger to each side shouldn’t make any difference. ****.
Might want to check valve to bore clearance? There is some reason aftermarket 2.02 valve heads say they won’t work on the 3.78 bore, but they don’t say why.
Just a thought
Might want to check valve to bore clearance? There is some reason aftermarket 2.02 valve heads say they won’t work on the 3.78 bore, but they don’t say why.
Just a thought
ill do that just to be sure. I do have a hard time believing that .010 bigger would even be a factor. I did consult my engine building buddy about this. He said it was of no concern. He said my main concern would be the spring height change. I do have a comp cams height mic (and spring pressure gauge). The difference in installed height has been only .015-.025 so far. I am going to take your advice and check cylinder walk to valve clearance. Standby......
p.s. I swear if it ain’t one thing it’s something else.
Something else I want to add. I checked with no gasket. Once I add a gasket, that pushes it further away. At .600 lift the valve barely makes it past the chamber height and into the bore. Add .051 to it and it probably won’t even make it to the bore. And I don’t like this......look at all that dead space for no reason.
Good to know the valves clear.
I hear ya on the wasted space. If you find the right CR calculator that lets you enter the gasket bore you can see how much it affects CR.
I actually CC’d my heads, and the valve reliefs and ran the numbers. My pistons are 0 deck. 9.33:1 was the result. I didn’t run the numbers for the LS1 gasket.
I fired mine up today. All is well.
Last edited by RonSSNova; Jan 24, 2020 at 10:49 PM.
I dont like the qualcast valves because they usually run heavier than i like. Make sure on weight first. Then make sure you have a good spring.
they weighed 2 grams more than stock. I have Brian tooley springs and titanium retainers. The edges of these valves are much thicker than stock. Matter of fact, the cylinder with the damaged piston had an intake valve that the rim was sharp and thin. I guess the valves were worn or when the valve job was done, the valve was cut too much. I bet at times under load, the thin knife edge of the valve would get red hot and cause preignition. Just a theory.
Putting this thing in today. In the middle of doing little things here and there that need to be done while it’s apart. Putting rev shift poly medium hardness mounts in. Polyurethane sway bar bushings. Dielectric grease on all my connections. Cleaning up all the parts on the outside of the engine. I kinda wanted to mock up the turbo system on the engine for pics but I’ll have to see how that goes. Adding the rear steam post venting. And I think I’m gonna prime the engine on the stand. My plan was to stick the starter on it. No spark plugs. Spin it over till oil shoots out (into a bucket lol) the turbo feed and then block that off for a few more spins to make sure the pressure gets to everything. What you guys think?
I primed mine on the stand using a small block Chev oil pump, a drill, and some AN hose. Primed it until getting oil out of a few rockers. My drill was pissed....
I was surprised at how fast oil goes through the system.
After it was in the car, and hooking up the turbo feed and oil pressure gauge, lost quite a bit of oil. Similar to how these behave when you pull the filter off.
When firing it up yesterday, there was no oil pressure until it started.
Myself, I’ve never gotten oil pressure on a fresh LS build grinding on the starter. Others have. Maybe you will.
😊
If I do this again, I’ll do it in the car with everything in place, turbo feed etc.
I primed mine on the stand using a small block Chev oil pump, a drill, and some AN hose. Primed it until getting oil out of a few rockers. My drill was pissed....
I was surprised at how fast oil goes through the system.
After it was in the car, and hooking up the turbo feed and oil pressure gauge, lost quite a bit of oil. Similar to how these behave when you pull the filter off.
When firing it up yesterday, there was no oil pressure until it started.
Myself, I’ve never gotten oil pressure on a fresh LS build grinding on the starter. Others have. Maybe you will.
😊
If I do this again, I’ll do it in the car with everything in place, turbo feed etc.
maaaan I’m glad you posted this. I turned it over for a bit and no oil pressure. I guess I’m just gonna drop it in. Guess the starter can’t turn it fast enough.
not really. I was piddling around actually. My son needed myself with something so that slowed me down. Damnit I forgot one of the ac bracket bolts so the compressor had to come back off. Which is a bitch in a gto. I just got through recycling my dexcool. I don’t want to spend 40+bucks on Coolant so I filter it and reuse it. Bugs, dirt and trash got in the bucket I drained it in. Clean now. All I have left is putting the intake on and the turbo. Turbo can’t go on till I get the trans in. Well it could, but it makes the trans job a little easier. Convertor shipped last week. Should be here middle of this week. If I feel like it after work one or two evenings and I feel like skipping the gym, I’ll put the trans is and finish it up. This is where I am now.
On a side note. Look at the top of the port. See the black circle? Looks like maybe the fuel spray hits it right there. Wonder if I should have tapered it and maybe it would help with better fueling. Maybe I’ll try that next time the heads are off.
On a side note. Look at the top of the port. See the black circle? Looks like maybe the fuel spray hits it right there. Wonder if I should have tapered it and maybe it would help with better fueling. Maybe I’ll try that next time the heads are off.
Injector sits on the very top of port of intake, so on a cathedral head the injector sprays right into the cathedral top, which is right above the black line your referencing. That’s why the top of the port is clean. It’s cleaned by the fuel spray.
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