ANOTHER boosted 5.3 build with summit bottom end
Like under the heads of the nutz? Check.
Hmmmm. I'm tempted to try these. I havent found any info on them....I was just about to start a thread so I can get the usual anwer i'd expect...(in a sarcastic voice) "just buy the arp".....Its easy to spend someone elses money.....I just cant seem to be ok with paying $250 for a stud kits and $350 for a line bore. So $600 just to do main studs! This makes the whole thing just not worth doing. I'm not trying to cheap out on ****, but damn. I'm already way over the original budget. I might just reuse the stock bolts.....Many people seem to do fine with that.
lube the stock bolt threads and under the head?
Hmmmm. I'm tempted to try these. I havent found any info on them....I was just about to start a thread so I can get the usual anwer i'd expect...(in a sarcastic voice) "just buy the arp".....Its easy to spend someone elses money.....I just cant seem to be ok with paying $250 for a stud kits and $350 for a line bore. So $600 just to do main studs! This makes the whole thing just not worth doing. I'm not trying to cheap out on ****, but damn. I'm already way over the original budget. I might just reuse the stock bolts.....Many people seem to do fine with that.
lube the stock bolt threads and under the head?
I may have missed it but you planning to upgrade the turbo along with all this engine stuff? I don't know what power level you are aiming for but even with a billet 88 at 30psi I didn't mess with the mains. Stock mains will hold what the stock crank will, now if your doing a forged crank then I would open the wallet up for ARP mains, but you may as well look into stronger pinned main caps and the while you are there list starts getting long. Comes a point that you put so much into a stock block that you may as well start fresh with an Dart LS Next ya know!
I'll lay out my goals, I didnt really want to because it may be a ways off. I may upgrade the turbo later if need be, but i probably wont have to. My gaol is to run at least a 9.99 at 140 or better. After I get the motor in, I'll have to upgrade the drive train and fuel system, but before I do all that all I want is a 10 second slip at 130+.....which with the new setup, I should have that in the bag. Just changing the stall would have netted me that. My 60ft was horrible and still almost broke in the 10's
Like under the heads of the nutz? Check.
Hmmmm. I'm tempted to try these. I havent found any info on them....I was just about to start a thread so I can get the usual anwer i'd expect...(in a sarcastic voice) "just buy the arp".....Its easy to spend someone elses money.....I just cant seem to be ok with paying $250 for a stud kits and $350 for a line bore. So $600 just to do main studs! This makes the whole thing just not worth doing. I'm not trying to cheap out on ****, but damn. I'm already way over the original budget. I might just reuse the stock bolts.....Many people seem to do fine with that.
lube the stock bolt threads and under the head?
Hmmmm. I'm tempted to try these. I havent found any info on them....I was just about to start a thread so I can get the usual anwer i'd expect...(in a sarcastic voice) "just buy the arp".....Its easy to spend someone elses money.....I just cant seem to be ok with paying $250 for a stud kits and $350 for a line bore. So $600 just to do main studs! This makes the whole thing just not worth doing. I'm not trying to cheap out on ****, but damn. I'm already way over the original budget. I might just reuse the stock bolts.....Many people seem to do fine with that.
lube the stock bolt threads and under the head?
I've never built a short block and plan to buy one rather than build one honestly. You bring up something interesting though. The same people that will tell you a sbe will handle 1000 horses all day long also tell you all this extra stuff you have to do if all you want is forged rods/pistons. I know a lot of it is "well if you are there anyway", but like you say you have to draw the line somewhere on spending. If stock caps and bolts are good for 1000 rwhp on a sbe then surely those same parts are good for the same power level with forged rods/pistons???
you explained it better than I did. I have to draw the line somewhere, exactly. I could keep spending and spending.....at that rate I’ll never get the car back together, go broke and sell it all. I’ve seen it happen.
but really. How many times has an ls engine chunked the crank out of it because of the main bolts? Seems like other things fail before that ever does. The failures I’ve seen are usually oil pressure related, piston breaking or rod breaking.
Last edited by Kfxguy; Nov 18, 2019 at 04:23 PM.
Couple of questions.
Is this an LM4 (Alum with long head bolts) or an L33 (Alum with short head bolts)?
Some have said the long head bolt version is better because the main webs are different, and the long bolts tie everything together better.
I agree that if you use main studs, need to align hone. The studs give more clamping force and the alum blocks move around more on the bottom end, compared to an iron block.
If no one local to you can align hone, then just use the orig bolts. Especially given your rather tame goals.
I was just going to hit 10.0 with my L33 to equal the performance of the 496 formerly in the car, that went out the window real quick...…..and the short block was stock, just cleaned up real good and re-gapped rings. I've had nothing but issues since trying to make it fancy.
FWIW, ported heads, good idea.
Have fun
Ron
Is this an LM4 (Alum with long head bolts) or an L33 (Alum with short head bolts)?
Some have said the long head bolt version is better because the main webs are different, and the long bolts tie everything together better.
I agree that if you use main studs, need to align hone. The studs give more clamping force and the alum blocks move around more on the bottom end, compared to an iron block.
If no one local to you can align hone, then just use the orig bolts. Especially given your rather tame goals.
I was just going to hit 10.0 with my L33 to equal the performance of the 496 formerly in the car, that went out the window real quick...…..and the short block was stock, just cleaned up real good and re-gapped rings. I've had nothing but issues since trying to make it fancy.
FWIW, ported heads, good idea.
Have fun
Ron
I'll lay out my goals, I didnt really want to because it may be a ways off. I may upgrade the turbo later if need be, but i probably wont have to. My gaol is to run at least a 9.99 at 140 or better. After I get the motor in, I'll have to upgrade the drive train and fuel system, but before I do all that all I want is a 10 second slip at 130+.....which with the new setup, I should have that in the bag. Just changing the stall would have netted me that. My 60ft was horrible and still almost broke in the 10's
Couple of questions.
Is this an LM4 (Alum with long head bolts) or an L33 (Alum with short head bolts)?
Some have said the long head bolt version is better because the main webs are different, and the long bolts tie everything together better.
I agree that if you use main studs, need to align hone. The studs give more clamping force and the alum blocks move around more on the bottom end, compared to an iron block.
If no one local to you can align hone, then just use the orig bolts. Especially given your rather tame goals.
I was just going to hit 10.0 with my L33 to equal the performance of the 496 formerly in the car, that went out the window real quick...…..and the short block was stock, just cleaned up real good and re-gapped rings. I've had nothing but issues since trying to make it fancy.
FWIW, ported heads, good idea.
Have fun
Ron
Is this an LM4 (Alum with long head bolts) or an L33 (Alum with short head bolts)?
Some have said the long head bolt version is better because the main webs are different, and the long bolts tie everything together better.
I agree that if you use main studs, need to align hone. The studs give more clamping force and the alum blocks move around more on the bottom end, compared to an iron block.
If no one local to you can align hone, then just use the orig bolts. Especially given your rather tame goals.
I was just going to hit 10.0 with my L33 to equal the performance of the 496 formerly in the car, that went out the window real quick...…..and the short block was stock, just cleaned up real good and re-gapped rings. I've had nothing but issues since trying to make it fancy.
FWIW, ported heads, good idea.
Have fun
Ron
its an LM4. I'll just reuse the stock bolts.
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Verdad Gallardo I dont think your goals are far off at all and should be fairly easy to obtain. For comparison my SBE 5.3 ran 9.5@145 at 3900-4000lbs with a T4 turbo and pretty soft timing on E85. Once I did rods/pistons and got a bit more aggressive with tune and a larger turbo it would run low 9’s at 150+, 8’s@155+ turned up and it didnt have anything fancy so I wouldn't spend a bunch of extra money if you won’t even be stressing the parts to meet your goals.
The studs are only $200 so they wacking you for $600 to drill out and tap holes? I think texas speed charges $500 for studs and labor, that seem more realistic to me. It almost sounds like you wouldn't be much further off buying a sleeved short block from them as well.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 112
Likes: 7
From: Vancouver, WA
Are those gen 4 rods or am I seeing it wrong? It probably its just following the rule of late 2004 has the CHANCE of gen 4 rods. Hmmm
I also have an LM4 but its installed and Im super curious what rods it has but to pull the pan its a entire ordeal because of the awd/4x4 mounting/going through the pan.
I also have an LM4 but its installed and Im super curious what rods it has but to pull the pan its a entire ordeal because of the awd/4x4 mounting/going through the pan.
i was fixing to ask what shop you where going with. my machine shop i was using no longer takes jobs.
Are those gen 4 rods or am I seeing it wrong? It probably its just following the rule of late 2004 has the CHANCE of gen 4 rods. Hmmm
I also have an LM4 but its installed and Im super curious what rods it has but to pull the pan its a entire ordeal because of the awd/4x4 mounting/going through the pan.
I also have an LM4 but its installed and Im super curious what rods it has but to pull the pan its a entire ordeal because of the awd/4x4 mounting/going through the pan.
I'm pretty sure its gen 3, it has pressed pins too. I compared pics to it a while back and determined it was gen 3 rods, it came out of a 2004 buick rainier.
ok, so summit carries these studs.....if summit carries them, they have to be decent, right? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...1024/overview/
ALSO>>>>> Joe contacted me this morning and gave me a heads up that my rods and pistons will be here tomorrow....way ahead of schedule. I'm quite excited! I might have this thing running before January. That would be awesome! I'm working on getting my balancing setup up to be expedited...hopefully. I know a guy who knows a guy kind of thing.
ALSO>>>>> Joe contacted me this morning and gave me a heads up that my rods and pistons will be here tomorrow....way ahead of schedule. I'm quite excited! I might have this thing running before January. That would be awesome! I'm working on getting my balancing setup up to be expedited...hopefully. I know a guy who knows a guy kind of thing.
ok, so summit carries these studs.....if summit carries them, they have to be decent, right? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...1024/overview/
ALSO>>>>> Joe contacted me this morning and gave me a heads up that my rods and pistons will be here tomorrow....way ahead of schedule. I'm quite excited! I might have this thing running before January. That would be awesome! I'm working on getting my balancing setup up to be expedited...hopefully. I know a guy who knows a guy kind of thing.
ALSO>>>>> Joe contacted me this morning and gave me a heads up that my rods and pistons will be here tomorrow....way ahead of schedule. I'm quite excited! I might have this thing running before January. That would be awesome! I'm working on getting my balancing setup up to be expedited...hopefully. I know a guy who knows a guy kind of thing.
OK OK.....I'll stop. I text my buddy that builds these engines for a living. I said "ever used the procomp/speedmaster main studs?"
his reply: Junk.
LMAO
He said the nuts are floppy. I dont want floppy nuts.
his reply: Junk.
LMAO
He said the nuts are floppy. I dont want floppy nuts.
Last edited by Kfxguy; Nov 19, 2019 at 12:38 PM.
Just picked up my rings and bearings. Getting the cheaper non coated stuff cost me $225. I got clevite P main and rod bearings, Durabond performance Cam bearings and NPR (very nice japanese) rings. I thought about doing micro slick on the main and rod bearings and coating the tops of the pistons with cerakote piston coating.
Like under the heads of the nutz? Check.
Hmmmm. I'm tempted to try these. I havent found any info on them....I was just about to start a thread so I can get the usual anwer i'd expect...(in a sarcastic voice) "just buy the arp".....Its easy to spend someone elses money.....I just cant seem to be ok with paying $250 for a stud kits and $350 for a line bore. So $600 just to do main studs! This makes the whole thing just not worth doing. I'm not trying to cheap out on ****, but damn. I'm already way over the original budget. I might just reuse the stock bolts.....Many people seem to do fine with that.
lube the stock bolt threads and under the head?
Hmmmm. I'm tempted to try these. I havent found any info on them....I was just about to start a thread so I can get the usual anwer i'd expect...(in a sarcastic voice) "just buy the arp".....Its easy to spend someone elses money.....I just cant seem to be ok with paying $250 for a stud kits and $350 for a line bore. So $600 just to do main studs! This makes the whole thing just not worth doing. I'm not trying to cheap out on ****, but damn. I'm already way over the original budget. I might just reuse the stock bolts.....Many people seem to do fine with that.
lube the stock bolt threads and under the head?
whats you guys though on this:
I was thinking about reusing my main bearings. I'm using that crank,and the bearings still look new. Thats $100 wasted to change them for no reason. New rod bearings and cam bearings tho.