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ANOTHER boosted 5.3 build with summit bottom end

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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 11:48 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mavn
I'd stud it . $250 for piece of mind
I agree. Especially if it goes north of 800HP.
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 12:16 PM
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I'd never out ARP bolts in an aluminum block. Studs always.
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 12:44 PM
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I'm on this same path. Good luck. 5.3 will still make plenty of torque.

You may have to line hone the mains if you go the ARP stud route. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I used Morel drop-ins on my N/A setup. They worked fine. Spun it to 7800 every day.
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jayyyw
I'm on this same path. Good luck. 5.3 will still make plenty of torque.

You may have to line hone the mains if you go the ARP stud route. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I used Morel drop-ins on my N/A setup. They worked fine. Spun it to 7800 every day.
Yes have to line hone
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kinglt-1
No E85 in your area?

no. Only one station. Too much trouble to deal with that
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Mavn
Yes have to line hone
jeez. This is just adding up and adding up. So $250 for bolts and probably 175-200 to align hone. I think I might just reuse the main bolts.
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
jeez. This is just adding up and adding up. So $250 for bolts and probably 175-200 to align hone. I think I might just reuse the main bolts.
I feel like it's super worth it.

With not paying for the rotating assembly on my alum 5.3 I'm doing my machine shop bill is $2200 . 1/2 studs, line hone, arp main studs etc
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mavn
I feel like it's super worth it.

With not paying for the rotating assembly on my alum 5.3 I'm doing my machine shop bill is $2200 . 1/2 studs, line hone, arp main studs etc

well I had to pay for my rotating assembly. And then the motor stuff I need done, the longer this is going to take. Hell, if I had the crank and rods and it balanced, the bottom end would be finished up this evening or tomorrow evening.
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 08:58 PM
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I stripped the engine down. Removed the cam bearings. Had to make a to for that. Then I Soaked the block a few times in purple power. Pressure washed it. Ran long brushes through all the oil passages and cleaned everything out. Rinsed. Hoses the cylinder walls down with oil. Then blew it all out with compressed air and let it sit in front of my shop heater for a while.

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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 09:03 PM
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Them I made a much needed tool. A piston ring compressor. I looked online first to see how much one was. $40 and up. The cheap ones didn’t look tapered. So I decided I have material to make one, why the heck not. It’s probably better than what you buy. I tested it when I was done and made it worlds easier than those stupid ones that are like a band that you compress around it, and cut yourself on. Ugh.






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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 08:27 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
well I had to pay for my rotating assembly. And then the motor stuff I need done, the longer this is going to take. Hell, if I had the crank and rods and it balanced, the bottom end would be finished up this evening or tomorrow evening.
I'm not saying I disnt pay for the rotating assembly. I'm just saying machine shop bill minus rotating assembly is $2200 lol forged ***** expensive. The sbe 5.3 I have now was $89 😂
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
My 5.7 in my GTO decided to give up on me after a track outing this past weekend, my fault i'm sure. I think I leaned it out too much. O well. Happens.
Welcome to the club! . Good luck with your build.

Last edited by Hardtop Brian; Nov 18, 2019 at 02:26 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 09:49 AM
  #33  
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Good to see your 5.3 turbo build thread up and running Kfxguy. We will stay tuned. Good luck with the build.
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 12:21 PM
  #34  
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I would also do the ARP Bottom end, line honed plus an ATI dampener for your build. Only because you drive the heck out of your car with frequent WOT runs in all conditions.
If it was just a weekend warrior or track car then I wouldn't bother. IMO.
Unfortunately, peace of mind costs money
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Summitracing
Good to see your 5.3 turbo build thread up and running Kfxguy. We will stay tuned. Good luck with the build.
hey thanks, and thanks for all your help!
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BlwnLs1GTO
I would also do the ARP Bottom end, line honed plus an ATI dampener for your build. Only because you drive the heck out of your car with frequent WOT runs in all conditions.
If it was just a weekend warrior or track car then I wouldn't bother. IMO.
Unfortunately, peace of mind costs money

no one in town line hones, I called around and no dice. So, one place said they Line BORE for $350 (ouch). I was told by that same machine shop to just check it and they usually dont need it. I was also told by two close friends the same thing. One of those friends is the ONLY other person besides myself, that I would trust to build me a motor. He builds dozens of LS engines a year.....he does it for a living. I may bring him my bottom end and have him check it for me to make sure.


Another option is I see PRO Comp (speedmaster) sells main studs. My train of thought leads me to this:
I saw a head bolt/stud test. The pro comp studs was about as strong as stock bolts. Pretty pathetic, however, Say I decide to go back with stock bolts, I'd be better with the procomp studs because multiple torque's on the stock studs to check clearances doesnt sit well with me, because , you know....screwing bolts into aluminum. So the studs would take the wear on the aluminum out of the equation, not clamp any better than stock so it may not distort the bores. Or am I just dreaming........
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mavn
I feel like it's super worth it.

With not paying for the rotating assembly on my alum 5.3 I'm doing my machine shop bill is $2200 . 1/2 studs, line hone, arp main studs etc
That's insane! Hopefully its sleeved for that price. Personally I would never put that much into a stock block, getting too close to much stronger options at that point.
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
....because multiple torque's on the stock studs to check clearances doesnt sit well with me, because , you know....screwing bolts into aluminum. So the studs would take the wear on the aluminum out of the equation, not clamp any better than stock so it may not distort the bores. Or am I just dreaming........
That has always bugged me too. Your reasoning seems logical. Make sure you lube the tops of the washers not the bottom.
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
That's insane! Hopefully its sleeved for that price. Personally I would never put that much into a stock block, getting too close to much stronger options at that point.
No sleeves 1/2 head stud conversion is $800 including studs . Then your standard $1200 machine bill .
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Old Nov 18, 2019 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
That has always bugged me too. Your reasoning seems logical. Make sure you lube the tops of the washers not the bottom.
Like under the heads of the nutz? Check.

Hmmmm. I'm tempted to try these. I havent found any info on them....I was just about to start a thread so I can get the usual anwer i'd expect...(in a sarcastic voice) "just buy the arp".....Its easy to spend someone elses money.....I just cant seem to be ok with paying $250 for a stud kits and $350 for a line bore. So $600 just to do main studs! This makes the whole thing just not worth doing. I'm not trying to cheap out on ****, but damn. I'm already way over the original budget. I might just reuse the stock bolts.....Many people seem to do fine with that.

lube the stock bolt threads and under the head?

Last edited by Kfxguy; Nov 18, 2019 at 02:50 PM.
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