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Got a text today saying my rotating assembly is ready for pickup. My buddy went picked it up for me while I was at work. Headed to his house to get it shortly. Ima try and have the bottom end done this weekend.
Today I made some headway. I got the crank in the block. I’m wondering about the clearances I ended up with. The three middle mains are .0015 and the two outer are .0018. It is an aluminum block, I never rev or get on it till it’s up to operating temp. I did use plasti gauge and it usually reads about .00025 too small. So it may be more around .00175 and .002. Guess I should have checked it with the mic. I figured it’s close enough. It turns very smooth and easy.
got the block honed.
detailed the block with a die grinder. Not necessary but I didn’t want to chance and casting flash flaking off. There were a few pieces I touch and the fell off.
I pulled the Allen head plugs out the block, cleaned them up and proxy painted them black. No big deal but being nasty looking was bothering me.
I hung the rods on the pistons. I only did 7 because I gotta send one piston back. My machinist said this one must have slipped by quality control and the bit they used was worn out because the wrist pin would not even go in the piston. He didn’t tell me anything and just honed it for me. But I don’t like how rough the hone job is because the pin still catches if you push on it. The finish just looks way too rough. He said it’ll be fine, but it’ll be in the back of my mind and I’d rather not chance it.
I hate spirolocks btw. But after watching a quick YouTube video, I learned how to install them easily.
im not worried about the main studs. I feel good about it. I went hung out at my buddy’s shop for a while and he told me he has done 12 engines with the arp main studs without line honing and never had an issue. Including aluminum blocks. I value his word and he’s never lied to me. He always shoots straight with me. He has a stock bottom end, aluminum block 5.3 that went 8.90’s and it had studs and regular arp head bolts. That motor is still going.
tomorrow I’ll gap the rings and hang 7 rods and pistons. Then it’s the waiting game again on a replacement piston. I need to order one of those plates you bolt on the valley and you hook your hoist to it to pull the motor. I keep putting it off. I’ve got to finish up my buddies turbo manifold using my car and mockup and then I’ll pull the motor out.
Time to gap the rings. Ugh. My most unfavorite thing to do. I know I could use a piston and a ring on the second groove to square the ring up in the bore, but I’d rather something easier to deal with. And I like making tools. So I whipped this up real quick. Serves it’s purpose very well.
I forgot about this. My buddy insisted I take this jewel with me to make like easier. Boy he wasn’t kidding. I need to get me one. He added variable speed control too.
Did you get the crank balanced ? Looks like a small amount was removed from the counterweight.
yes I got it balanced. It does not look like much was taken off at all. I honestly think I could have ran it. I’m gonna ask my machinist what he thinks about that. How far out it was and if he thinks I could have gotten away with it.
Why would studs possible distort the bore vs bolts? Can they be overtightened more easily than bolts?
well they say that if you use more clamping force it could distort the bore. However. The inners are torqued are 60ft lbs and the outers at 50ft lbs. which seems to be the same specs for the stock bolts according to what people have took note of. Example:
so I’m not sure how the arp studs would change anything with essentially the same tq. I’d be willing to be MOST people don’t get their blocks line honed when putting those studs in. Two of my buddies that have build many ls engines both told me they never have had to get a block line honed. So ima run it.
If you measure clearances while assembling, you’ll know if your main bores are out of round. Did you measure KFX? The answer here is right in front of you.
If you measure clearances while assembling, you’ll know if your main bores are out of round. Did you measure KFX? The answer here is right in front of you.
after I mic’ed the rods and and then read up on it, the bores are out of round if you measure across the parting line vs top and bottom, and evidently it’s supposed to be like that. So I plasti gauge it. Then finding out the tq values are the same between stock and the arp, I see no reason to stress over it.
after I mic’ed the rods and and then read up on it, the bores are out of round if you measure across the parting line vs top and bottom, and evidently it’s supposed to be like that. So I plasti gauge it. Then finding out the tq values are the same between stock and the arp, I see no reason to stress over it.
The housing bore ID is supposed to be round within a certain tolerance (couple tenths), and the bearing ID is supposed to be elliptical, larger at the parting line and then tightest at 12 and 6 o'clock. So, if the bore is going to be out of round, it's best the be big at the parting line area. If it's tighter at the parting line area, you could wipe out the bearings.
The housing bore ID is supposed to be round within a certain tolerance (couple tenths), and the bearing ID is supposed to be elliptical, larger at the parting line and then tightest at 12 and 6 o'clock. So, if the bore is going to be out of round, it's best the be big at the parting line area. If it's tighter at the parting line area, you could wipe out the bearings.
what are you, some kind of know it all or something? Lol.
I was considering checking. But I’m 99.9% sure it’s good. Only main bearing issues I’ve read about is when people set up aluminum block clearance like iron block calls for. On the one hand I wanna check it, but I know it’s fine.
12-06-2019 | 07:52 PM
