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The instances being stood on as a soap box for how good stock parts are are using ls1tech as the standard for reporting it seems.
I assure you it is far far more than you can imagine. Whether rockers, springs, or lifters.
It is true that the delphi/ls7 lifters used to go back in, but i venture to say that is only due to cost. Had 1 or 2 other lifters been cheaper? Id expect them to be the norm. Will you see a gain in quite a few performance builds with a higher quality lifter? Without a doubt i say yes. Were they (ls7) a great lifter otherwise? Yes. The difference is the same in spring quality and other parts.
I should hopefully have some good options soon on some normally overlooked parts as well, but ill just leave this as a teaser.
Che have a groove also spiraled all the way around the trunion.
I think it is much more than just an across the board issue.
Mr Urban has put these through their paces much more than anyone else really could but his attention to detail and not just using xx vanilla brand whatever.
I think valve weight and stability make alot of difference, based off of the records i have been keeping on nearly any reported failure.
I believe the valve springs play in as a part of the wear. I was told to get the Brazilian springs off because of known valve bounce. Thanks for the great price on the TSP PAC .660 springs 👍🏻
I've thought that plays a roll, too, and the same withe the brinelling effect that the comp trunnions undergo--a lot of pressure ends up being put on one side of the trunnion assembly by the valve stem tip (via spring pressure) and the pushrod acting on the rocker as it goes through it's motion.
Since the CHE bushing floats, i've wondered if it can rotate for more even wear, but i could see them doing the same thing as the other kits as well. So, i don't know.
My friend decided to check k his since I wiped out my bronze trunions. Here are his Comp needle bearing upgrade trunions. This is on a BTR stage 3 .617 / .593 w/ .660 dual platinum springs 2 years old
Last edited by Johnny_M; 12-10-2019 at 07:54 PM.
Reason: Add more information
My friend decided to check k his since I wiped out my bronze trunions. Here are his Comp needle bearing upgrade trunions. This is on a BTR stage 3 .617 / .593 w/ .660 dual platinum springs 2 years old
The Comps are junk and have been known for that for years.
Has anyone tried the BTR trunnion kit V2? The trunnion comes with a inner race pressed on made of "52100 heat treated bearing steel". I was under the impression that these were made to address the issues of the regular Comp style trunnion.
Hopefully some time within the next couple of weeks I'll have time to take apart one of my trunnions (CHE) and we can see how they're holding up. They've got about 8000 hard miles on them with my Torquer V2.
you have to consider that there is no solution that will last as long as the stock valve train. i would imagine even the stock rockers won't hold up with aggressive cams. stuff will wear out. then there is the handful of instances where they have spit out needle bearings.
bronze is a better option than steel since it is softer and particulates will potentially will do less damage in an engine. no needle bearings to vomit, as well. the downside, of course, is how fast they wear out.
lastly is just going with aftermarket roller rockers. more expensive and time consuming option to get correct, but better.
Has anyone tried the BTR trunnion kit V2? The trunnion comes with a inner race pressed on made of "52100 heat treated bearing steel". I was under the impression that these were made to address the issues of the regular Comp style trunnion.
Hopefully some time within the next couple of weeks I'll have time to take apart one of my trunnions (CHE) and we can see how they're holding up. They've got about 8000 hard miles on them with my Torquer V2.
I called BTR about them and they sound like a fix. The inner race "floats"
you have to consider that there is no solution that will last as long as the stock valve train. i would imagine even the stock rockers won't hold up with aggressive cams. stuff will wear out. then there is the handful of instances where they have spit out needle bearings.
bronze is a better option than steel since it is softer and particulates will potentially will do less damage in an engine. no needle bearings to vomit, as well. the downside, of course, is how fast they wear out.
lastly is just going with aftermarket roller rockers. more expensive and time consuming option to get correct, but better.
I paid $345 for Comp Ultra Pro Magnums 1.8. I had the valve to piston clearance, so I got them. They do take the stock length pushrods. They aren't noisy at all....
Has anyone tried the BTR trunnion kit V2? The trunnion comes with a inner race pressed on made of "52100 heat treated bearing steel". I was under the impression that these were made to address the issues of the regular Comp style trunnion.
Hopefully some time within the next couple of weeks I'll have time to take apart one of my trunnions (CHE) and we can see how they're holding up. They've got about 8000 hard miles on them with my Torquer V2.
The che float, but do no spin. You could hand rotate them every x thousand miles but since the bronze is softer than steel it will likely have wear patterns/flat spots/or been pushed out/compressed and likely not offer the same performance. Hard to tell what that interval should be to keep that at a minimum though.
Obviously from all the pics and theory and actual engineering, the bottom of the trunion takes the most load. Thats where the wear starts and usually is only localized there. I like the idea of using a break in assy lube, oil additive, or oil itself to help in combating this from the beginning. On any setup.
The entire trunion on our rocker kits are 5120. Having such a small shaft to take alot of the load on a rocker seems like a bad idea from that link, but maybe its ok. .
The comp metallurgy we found was lacking in many aspects.
For the differences between the 2 alloys here is a good representation article. Just so people dont get caught up in numbers and have no idea what is what. The needle bearing itself is still the issue. It will usually cause a wear pattern because it only rides in one place. Again use of a break in supplement is a good idea. https://www.makeitfrom.com/compare/S...Chromium-Steel
On cams that arent designed for a higher ratio rocker, you can run into issues. Id much rather have a better lobe than to use a higher ratio rocker.
The only difference there is the tsp. Its a 1.72. When you factor in actual rocker deflection, they come out to ~1.7 rar. Adding weight with any other rocker style over the valve doesnt help, especially if using a heavy valve already. It may not cause float or other situations but you can watch it hit an rpm wall on the dyno and wonder why. Most of the time youll just see it plateau but still carry some.
I have seen many higher ratio rocker arms also have issues with pushrod clearance/rubbing etc on the pushrod holes. So double check that as well.
12-09-2019, 01:35 PM
