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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 11:00 PM
  #21  
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Should be a nice sleeper
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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 07:59 AM
  #22  
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Your gonna LOVE IT!!
Id do like others have said, and like I do with every engine, pull a valve cover and check to see if its been maintained. If it looks fairly clean run it.
How much did you pay for it?
If you really wanna start over with a newer low mileage engine just find a L92 (alluminum 6.2) there all over Ebay with around 100k miles and around $3,000
That will give you rectangle port heads and intake plus 100lbs lighter, right off the bat.
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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 01:02 PM
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Great looking SS sir! That will be a fun car!
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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Ls7colorado
Your gonna LOVE IT!!
Id do like others have said, and like I do with every engine, pull a valve cover and check to see if its been maintained. If it looks fairly clean run it.
How much did you pay for it?
If you really wanna start over with a newer low mileage engine just find a L92 (alluminum 6.2) there all over Ebay with around 100k miles and around $3,000
That will give you rectangle port heads and intake plus 100lbs lighter, right off the bat.

Engine was $1050 130k miles. This build is starting to add up quick..........Cam and Springs $700, AI CNC port job $1200, LS7 lifters $230, Oil pan for Monte Carlo Swap $250, engine Gasket set $250, Fast intake $1000, Fast Throttle body $375, ls2 39lbs injectors $315, Fuel rails for fast intake $200. Thats about $5500 already. lol. perhaps i should have got the Blue Print pro series chevy ls 376 530HP crate for $6900.
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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 05:05 PM
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Its not cheap
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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedman87
Engine was $1050 130k miles. This build is starting to add up quick..........Cam and Springs $700, AI CNC port job $1200, LS7 lifters $230, Oil pan for Monte Carlo Swap $250, engine Gasket set $250, Fast intake $1000, Fast Throttle body $375, ls2 39lbs injectors $315, Fuel rails for fast intake $200. Thats about $5500 already. lol. perhaps i should have got the Blue Print pro series chevy ls 376 530HP crate for $6900.
And then after you’ve spent the coin getting the car running, you’ll decide after a few months that you just have to have more power, so you’ll sell the 6liter off for pennies on the dollar and go after big power, which is 3 times as much cash...That’s hot rodding!
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Old Dec 5, 2019 | 10:40 PM
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Easier to just add a twin screw blower down the road since that car doesn't have half the engine under the windshield.
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Old Dec 6, 2019 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by wannafbody
Easier to just add a twin screw blower down the road since that car doesn't have half the engine under the windshield.
I wish the prices would go down on these! even the used LSA's complete are expensive!
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Old Dec 6, 2019 | 10:43 AM
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Hey, when you need the pressure, the wallet gets compressed a bit....
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Old Dec 6, 2019 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedman87
Greetings, Picked up a used LQ9 today and wanted to get a few suggestions/advise on my build. the Lq9 came out of a 02 Escalade with 190K miles. engine will be going in my 87 Monte Carlo SS with a 4l80e behind it. First order of business is to tear down and label everything this weekend. I'm still in the process of finding a machine shop but spoke with a few and am narrowing down my selection.What questions do i need to be asking these potential machinist? I'm shooting for a daily derivable street rod with around 425- rwhp. I have a set of 799 heads off a 5.3 I'm planning to send to AI and get the 226 head package. Going to run the torquer V4 cam (231/234 .629"/.615" 111 LSA) from Texas Speed with dual valve springs. The rockers I'm still doing research on, hearing a lot of mixed reviews and a lot of horror stories from my findings but thinking about going with CHE LS/LT trunion kit on the stock rockers. Will this combo put me at my target of 425 rwhp??? The piston selection I'm defiantly in need of some direction. I'm thinking about going with GMPP Hypereutectic LS2/ LQ9 replacement pistons. They run about $70 each and rings $40ea for a single set. This combo with the 799 head will put me around 11.1 compression. My theory behind going with the GM replacements is that the LQ9 was a stout motor from the factory lasting over 300k miles if taken care of. Why change it??? plus to my knowledge hypereutectic is superior over forged for a street/ daily driver. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Is there a better option out there around the same price point? Any other upgrades i should consider?? all input is greatly appreciated
Our complete rebuild kits include everything you need and likey at a better deal. Especially at 70 ea for pistons alone.

Our kits are $699 and include

How to build and modify gm ls engines book
Mls head gaskets
Mls exhaust manifold gaskets
Valve cover gaskets with grommets
Coolant bypass seals
Front cover gasket
Front cover seal
Cam thrust plate with bolts
Rear cover seal
Rear cover gasket
Valley cover gasket
Knock sensor grommets
Billet oil barbell
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Oil pump o rings
Oil pump
Timing set
Cam bearings
Main bearings
Rod bearings
Gm style head bolts
Pistons with pins
Rings

Shipping is free also.
You wont find a better more complete and heavy duty kit out there

If you want more info email me
Rpmspeedtech@gmail.com
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Old Dec 7, 2019 | 05:28 AM
  #31  
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I like Keith Black or MAHLE original hypereutectic pistons for stock bottom end rebuilds.

That said I offer this advice nowadays. As earlier check compression and see if it pumps oil and stuff that 6.0L in there as is, maybe a cam swap something super cheap that you can find use or a new Summit grind. Then build one on a stand while you sort the car out with the shakedown motor. 430 rwhp is not a bolt in a go racing motor you are going to have a lot of chassis things to sort out that even a 350whp motor is going to reveal. Considering the age and the stamped suspension and whatnot your going to be busy sorting the chassis out if you want that thing to run hard reliably.

The stand motor Id suggest getting an LS3 block and starting with that and a rect por head LS3 intake combo. Just a suggestion, feel free to ignore it if you like
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Old Dec 7, 2019 | 08:23 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by cam
I like Keith Black or MAHLE original hypereutectic pistons for stock bottom end rebuilds.

That said I offer this advice nowadays. As earlier check compression and see if it pumps oil and stuff that 6.0L in there as is, maybe a cam swap something super cheap that you can find use or a new Summit grind. Then build one on a stand while you sort the car out with the shakedown motor. 430 rwhp is not a bolt in a go racing motor you are going to have a lot of chassis things to sort out that even a 350whp motor is going to reveal. Considering the age and the stamped suspension and whatnot your going to be busy sorting the chassis out if you want that thing to run hard reliably.

The stand motor Id suggest getting an LS3 block and starting with that and a rect por head LS3 intake combo. Just a suggestion, feel free to ignore it if you like
I was honestly considering doing something similar. I already have a high milage lq9 That I got from salvage last week for $600. After speaking with a few guys on the forum decided to run a stock bottom end as is. So I called the salvage yard to do an exchange for a lower milage unit. That hasn’t arrived yet. I very well might just keep the high milage unit, take my time rebuilding it and do something a little more radical (forged internals/ maybe stroker). While in the mean time get the lower milage short block in the car and get it running.
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 04:14 PM
  #33  
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The Fun Begins!
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 04:15 PM
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 04:20 PM
  #35  
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Would someone know why on both engines the passenger side cylinder head and rocker assemblies are much cleaner than the drivers side???? Im guessing the way the pcv flows? One engines is a 04 lq9 and the other is a 11 LC9
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 07:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by tech@WS6store
Our complete rebuild kits include everything you need and likey at a better deal. Especially at 70 ea for pistons alone.

Our kits are $699 and include

How to build and modify gm ls engines book
Mls head gaskets
Mls exhaust manifold gaskets
Valve cover gaskets with grommets
Coolant bypass seals
Front cover gasket
Front cover seal
Cam thrust plate with bolts
Rear cover seal
Rear cover gasket
Valley cover gasket
Knock sensor grommets
Billet oil barbell
Oil pan gasket
Oil pump o rings
Oil pump
Timing set
Cam bearings
Main bearings
Rod bearings
Gm style head bolts
Pistons with pins
Rings

Shipping is free also.
You wont find a better more complete and heavy duty kit out there

If you want more info email me
Rpmspeedtech@gmail.com
I will be contacting you soon. This is exactly what I am looking for. Thanks
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 09:37 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Speedman87


Would someone know why on both engines the passenger side cylinder head and rocker assemblies are much cleaner than the drivers side???? Im guessing the way the pcv flows? One engines is a 04 lq9 and the other is a 11 LC9
Yes it’s the PVC setup. Clean side vs. dirty side. First LS I ever opened up, I thought the head/rockers/pushrods had been replaced on that side, it was so much cleaner.
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Old Dec 11, 2019 | 04:36 PM
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How high can i go up in compression with this n/a build on 93 octane and not have to worry about detonation, and pre-ignition?? the lq9 (flat top pistons) with the 799 heads would put me around 11:1 compression. can i squeeze anymore HP by raising the compression out of this setup by shaving the heads when AI gets them? will it be even be worth it? Talking with Texas speed they recommended the V4 torquer cam (231/234 .629"/.615" 111 LSA) how radical is this cam for a 6.0? can i still drive this everyday and it be street-able if i choose? just trying to get some second opinions or actual personal experiences if possible
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Old Dec 11, 2019 | 05:16 PM
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Your looking for personal experience, I’m at 12.42:1 in my Chevelle and I run only 93 octane. That’s about as high as you can go on pump for safe static compression, but of course camshaft will dictate cylinder pressure which will give you dynamic compression numbers. My car is just a toy, and I’m shooting for max effort n/a power. It’s a nice weather weekender that doesn’t get driven very much at all. Not a daily driver is what I’m getting at.
And I should add that I’m running a very, very efficient cylinder head, with my quinch optimized to the max. This enables me to run that kind of compression on pump gas safely. Tuning and timing must be right.

Last edited by Che70velle; Dec 11, 2019 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Additional info...
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Old Dec 12, 2019 | 08:48 PM
  #40  
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Lets put this into perspective.

Ls2s are 10.9:1
Ls3s are 10.7:1
Ls7s are 11:1

Youre building an iron ls2 so its not 11:1 respectively. Would that be ideal in a heavy truck? On 91 or 93 straight gas? No problem. I would make sure the low octane spark table is not a copy of the high octane that so many tuners like to do though. That will save your *** for many reasons.
Stay away from ethanol blends when you can also. No e10 or e15.
Thats my personal and professional experience there. As well as tuning.
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