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Hey, I have 53k original miles ls1/t56 dropout from a 2002 camaro z28. I am tearing down the motor to do a heads/cam and notice some significant rust in the rear most cylinder bore. The car had been sitting (not ran) for about 7 years and I was only able to hear it run for about 10 seconds on starter fluid before getting the dropout.
Is there more to worry about here with the rust or is it okay?
Other cylinders look pretty good and a bunch of rust came off when I wiped it but there is still some rust lodged into the wall particularly towards the top. I didn't see any head gasket breach either.
Appreciate it Know It All. I'll see how good I clean it that way. Hmm maybe concerning if the headgasket doesnt match the factory gasket meaning the heads were off at some point or maybe worse a swapped engine. Everything was stock down to the exhaust manifolds.
I concur with know it all, in that I wouldn't sweat that too much. Looks like everything below the ring travel is just surface rust, and most of what could be pitting is above the highest position of the top ring travel anyhow. Scotchbright should clean it up well, but I don't think I'd use a pad. I'd keep the piston at bdc, seal the bore up (just above the piston top) as best you can with painters tape and plastic, then use a scotchbright ball on a drill for the most part of it. Doing so will make it easier to emulate the 38*-45* crosshatch angle from the original bore/hone job. That angle plays a big role in oil control AND ring rotation. You wouldn't want to go straight up and down or straight around the cylinder. Also use tons of wd40 to flush any particles away and not inadvertently bed anything into the wall.
If you can clean up the cylinder and there is no pitting in the wall it should be fine. Personally, if it were me, I'd have to be **** and pull it apart and at least change or clean the rings as they could have a bit of rust and dirt in them. You got it on the stand, why not go the extra step.
If you can clean up the cylinder and there is no pitting in the wall it should be fine. Personally, if it were me, I'd have to be **** and pull it apart and at least change or clean the rings as they could have a bit of rust and dirt in them. You got it on the stand, why not go the extra step.
Heck at that point he might as well put new bearings in too. If if hes doing that, he might as well put forged pistons and rods in. And if hes gonna put pistons and rods in...he might as well stroke it..........this is a never ending snowball effect. lol
That's what I'm saying.., I'm trying to be somewhat budget friendly but I find myself replacing everything. I think I'll leave the pistons in otherwise the stocks will never go back into the motor. I used a scotch pad wd40 and Kroil. The Kroil dissolved the rust much better. Will post the progress pictures tomorrow.
Last edited by ScottyGear; 12-15-2019 at 08:18 AM.
My $.02...........
You ran the engine. The rings have scraped the loose **** off the wall. Most likely, it's on/behind the rings.
They could stick in the groove, and also be damaged by the rough wall face.
It's on the stand. Pull it apart, have it glaze busted, and re-ring it.
Heck at that point he might as well put new bearings in too. If if hes doing that, he might as well put forged pistons and rods in. And if hes gonna put pistons and rods in...he might as well stroke it..........this is a never ending snowball effect. lol
Bearings I would do, yes. No need for aftermarket rotating assembly. But I get what you are saying - where does it end.
Heck, he could just leave as is, forget the rust and slap it together. Will it run, sure. Will it last...?
I submitted some update pics last night that I guess are still under approval from the moderators. When those are posted let me know what you all think. I still have to continue removing residual gasket material from the block using plastic razor blades but that is taking forever.
Hope everything works out for you! You've gone this far you might as well tear it the rest of the way down.
Cylinder bores could use a re-hone and the rings could need replacing but without removing to inspect who knows what the condition is. The rod and main bearings could still be in good shape and can be re-used but without looking to see who knows what their condition is.
I would not leave anything to chance as gremlins do a great job of hiding and rearing their ugly heads at the worst possible times.
Pull the dowels out, makes it a lot easier. They can be re-used, but nice shiny new ones are cheap, they're the same as older big block.
Mine was also composite and had the same effect of darker stains along the bottom edge, which is probably from being at a 45 deg angle and something seeping down through the gasket material over time.
Heck at that point he might as well put new bearings in too. If if hes doing that, he might as well put forged pistons and rods in. And if hes gonna put pistons and rods in...he might as well stroke it..........this is a never ending snowball effect. lol
If the heads are already off then it's not that big of a deal to pull a piston and clean it up and reinstall, I have a 5.3 on the stand now that I pulled pistons and cleaned them and I reused bearings and bolts and it didn't take long at all. The pistons obviously won't rust but the rings will and it may be enough to cause a problem.
Ok here is an update of the progress using wd40, kroil, and a scotch pad. Some staining remains but is smooth Pistons cleaned at TDC
I guess it depends on your skill level. You could assemble the engine and run it or remove that piston and continue to work the cylinder until you've removed the rust. If you feel really good about things you could add a step by honing that cylinder and then putting everything together.
Be sure to use plenty of WD 40 as you clean that cylinder and to reduce the chance of rust coming back and to lubricate the piston rings.
So this issue has been keeping me up at night, the other bank also had rust in the cylinders and even a worse to the point you can feel a small distortion with your finger. You can see where it looks like the piston rings were sitting and rusting to the cylinder wall. I pulled the oil pan and windage tray and inspected the bores from below, they look great but doesnt say anything about the condition of the rings. I already installed the cam, ls2 timing chain and melling oil pump but now I am going to take it all apart and just have it mic'd and honed if possible or slightly bored if honing wont fix it. Now I am just trying to find the right machine shop as I dont trust a dingle berry hone will do the trick. Driverside rear cylinder (worst one)
So this issue has been keeping me up at night, the other bank also had rust in the cylinders and even a worse to the point you can feel a small distortion with your finger. You can see where it looks like the piston rings were sitting and rusting to the cylinder wall. I pulled the oil pan and windage tray and inspected the bores from below, they look great but doesnt say anything about the condition of the rings. I already installed the cam, ls2 timing chain and melling oil pump but now I am going to take it all apart and just have it mic'd and honed if possible or slightly bored if honing wont fix it. Now I am just trying to find the right machine shop as I dont trust a dingle berry hone will do the trick. Driverside rear cylinder (worst one)
well dang. I ball honed mine. Should I be concerned? Should I not trust it? It is the same ball hone I’ve used on numerous engines, but maybe I should be worried now? Reading this has me scratching my head, second guessing my ball hones ability.
12-12-2019, 09:59 PM
Cylinder Wall Rust- Shot or Not? 
