AFR HEADS & NEW ROLLER LIFTERS
LS6 6800 >> 7000 (OK)
The lifters are not an issue of rpm or duration but more an issue of lift stress. Up to .600 no problems after that ????
I am replacing mine with Comp replacements for a XE-R .581 cam with PP "gold" on AFR 205's.
Last edited by goober35; Jul 16, 2004 at 02:40 AM.
Change those to ARP along with ARP main cap bolts and you can do 7000rpm all day long.
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Changing rod bolts is a PITA with motor in but not impossible. Hell putting the O ring on the O-pump is a PITA too.
In my case since, i'll be changing the tranny at the same time with H/C. I decided to drop the motor anyways so I'll change my bolts just for peace of mind and to take a look at the bottom end (45K).
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Lift motor
remove pan
Remove windage tray and pick up tube
change rod bolts, rotate crank, change another and so on.
put everything back
Changed my motor mounts to poly while I was at it.
Not really that bad but a lift is really helpfull.
They will do more than help. Many "forged bottoms" that tickle the 7K range do not have forged cranks. Just rods and pistons. Most crank failures on modded engines are due to bad harmonic controls.
I'm not talking "road race in the 7's" I'm talking reving untill then changing gears.
LS6 blocks fair much better because of the better crank oiling journals (Non existant on LS1)
I've blown 2 motors on Nitrous (one by detonation "ring failure") and (one by rod bolt failure) only reving till 6300 but on a 200 shot/wet.
I agree completely that a fully forged bottom will take more abuse (Reliability), but the stock shotblock will fair pretty well to 7K with ARP bolts.
All modded engines have reduced life.
Now TTT the stock lifters will be good to 7K if there is lifts below .600 (Assuming preload is done correctly)


