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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 11:48 AM
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Also, what do u think this will do for engine life? I will have upgraded springs, pushrods, retainers the works on the heads. But will the engine last past 100k. Im getting one with about 8900 on it right now. Im not gonna be spinning the motor up alot or racing it alot neither. Just want the power to be there when i run into unsuspecting vehicles.
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 01:10 PM
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I have the stealt II cam and love it now that its tuned and the rev limiter is gone. Heres a quick vid ( ignore my wicked grandma launch ) .

http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a74501/johndave.avi

Im racing a 450 rwhp / 450 rwtq modded 04 cobra with my stealth II cam only car ( stock heads )

It just has a quick tune in it too my freind burned just to get the timing and rev limiter up , its getting a dyno tune this week hopefully

Im expecting over 400 rwhp as I can run with my buddies 414 rwhp LT1 no problem
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by c4hybrid2007
Predator I like the idea of the custom grind you gave me alot. You think it will make as much power as the C2 Hammer cam or the stealth II cam?
They all would be in the same power range but on a different curve.
whats the + 4 after the lsa mean and what is a 112icl?
+4 means 4 degrees advance in the grind and icl means intake centerline. They are initial timming points ground in the camshaft upon manufacturing, to allow phasing the cam in with the rotating assembly. A camshaft spins at half the speed of a four stroke crank in order to deliver the spark at the correct time.
Sorry im a little cam ignorant. Will i need to rev that cam past 6000rpm to make peak power? I know i would need to dyno that to be sure but just an experienced estimate from a well knowledged member would be adiquite.
Yes that cam would go up to 6800 or so carrying the power but would more likely peak around 6500. How far you spin it depends on the maximum power range you want to keep between shifts. I'm building my set up to stay in the 400+rwhp between my shifts (hopefuly)

Do you think that cam with a good set of heads could put u in the low 11s with the right setup or hit around 420rwhp? Sorry i know its alot of novice questions.
With the right heads and FULL bolt ons (Ported true LS6 or AFR 205's) a cam like that could potentially hit 440>perhaps 450rwhp on an M6 but more like 430 or so on an A4. Colonel (on this forum) has hit 420 rwhp with a 224/220, .581/.581 116+4 lsa (comp XE-R) and he runs 11.2's with a 4000 stall.

If you would like some good reading on cams, find a post by JPR (The Search **** ) and read his posts in his sig. They are really good. The more times you read it the more sense you start to make out of it and the more you get to understand the physics of a cam.

BTW, I'm not very knowledgeable, I'm just an Advanced Novice compared to some of the poeple here.
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by c4hybrid2007
Also, what do u think this will do for engine life? I will have upgraded springs, pushrods, retainers the works on the heads. But will the engine last past 100k. Im getting one with about 8900 on it right now. Im not gonna be spinning the motor up alot or racing it alot neither. Just want the power to be there when i run into unsuspecting vehicles.
Any powefull H/C car will have a reduced life on the motor (tranny and diff too ), It's just a matter of how well it was built, how you take care of it, how you use it and how often you beat on it.

From my few years of experience I learned to use the best oil, change all filters at quicker intervals than recomended by any manufacturer, use the best fuel, not to take shortcuts and to check everything quite often. An example, I change my plugs an average of 4 times per year, my synthetic oil every 2 months, my fuel filter twice a year, my tranny filter also and so on (Yes i'm a freak)
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 02:55 PM
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Well of the 3 cams you suggested The Stealth II, The Custom Grind Cam, or The Hammer cam on the 114lsa which would make the most power before 6300rpm. My only concern is that i would like to try and get the motor to last about 100k miles while still obtaining emissions. I also am very timely with maintence and i take care of my stuff very well. It will have the ZF 6 speed behind it, while being louder the n the t-56 can hold almost 550lbs stock. Also the Dana 44 rear-end should hold up to the beating for a while. So my only concern is the motor. The project is gonna cost some $$$ and i want it done right and then save up for a forged motor later on. Colonial do you feel that you would lose some et if you shifted the stealth cam at say around 6000 rpm instead of 6600 or so? Also, do u think it would remain emissions friendly on a 115lsa and make a bit more power under 6500? Also, im gonna start printing off some of those articles and reading them. Thanks alot guys!
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 03:03 PM
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Dana 44 Hmmm is it a 3rd GEN ?? I use to have one of those on my 3rd Gen Turbo T/A.
(Wish i never sold that thing)
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 03:09 PM
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I think you should look at a 224/228 on 114LSA. 114ICL

The added exhaust duration will help your power with cats. Also you will pass VERY easily with that cam and the right tune.

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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 03:52 PM
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You NEED to rev the SII cam , when I had 6200 rpm limiter in place it was frustrating , you just smack the limiter and drop out of the sweet spot when you shift . . . . now I shift at about 6700 rpm and it hauls some serious ***
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 04:22 PM
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Chris are u speaking of the thunder racing 224/228 cam? How would this cam pass easier then the c2 on a 114lsa? Not questioning your judgement would jsut like to know. Would it make more power then the C2 or the Stealth Cam? Ill try and search before asking anymore ?? on it.
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 04:59 PM
  #30  
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"Colonel (on this forum) has hit 420 rwhp with a 224/220, .581/.581 116+4 lsa (comp XE-R) and he runs 11.2's with a 4000 stall."

The Stealth II is not +4, it's straight up. My engine made peak HP at 5900. Making it +4 would likely bring this back a couple hundred RPM.

Yes, I would go slower shifting at 6000 with this cam. I wouldn't shift a STOCK cam at 6000!

A 115 LSA will give you just a tiny bit more power before the HP peak (as I said, my SSII peaked at 5900) but will drop off just a little faster after the HP peak. If I swapped to a 115 I bet my HP peak would be at 5800-5850.

I don't know much about emissions (we don't have testing here) but I'm pretty sure you could make the 115 pass with the right tune.
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 05:54 PM
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I like Chris's cam idea alot just waiting for his reply. Thanks for hte reply colonial. I see your car makes some very good times with the cam and its very impressive. I would like to go with the Stealth Cam but i just dont know how reliable its gonna be spinning up that high. The motor will only have about 10k on it but i dont want it to only last 40k. The springs, retainers, pushrods will all be taking into consideration, but will i throw a rod spinning to 6500. I dont plan on beating on it all the time just needing the power when it needs to be there and for the open road as well. if u think the motor could last 100k with the stealth cam on the 115lsa with minimal track time(3 times a year). Its gonna be in a c4 vette matted to the zf trans. So im hoping for some mid 11 timeslips with the right suspension mods and a good driving day . P.S. How is your gas mileage with the stealth II cam if its babied around town and say 65 on the highway. Im hoping for 16/25.
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 06:22 PM
  #32  
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"but will i throw a rod spinning to 6500."

EXTREMELY unlikely. I wouldn't be running this cam in my daily driver if I thought the bottom end wasn't good for at least 6600 RPM. I plan to change springs every 20K miles or so and I fully expect that this engine would last 150K+ miles (if I kept it that long.)

Some people spin stock bottom ends to 7200+ but I DO NOT suggest that anyone do that expecting it to last. However, 6500 seems pretty dang safe, IMO.
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 06:23 PM
  #33  
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...It made 23.4 MPG averaging about 80 on the interstate. It has 3.23 gears.
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 06:25 PM
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Awesome, Thats what i like to hear :-). Do u guys think the car should run better times my c4 then in a fbody? I know there is a weight and aerodynamics advantage to the vette.
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 06:25 PM
  #35  
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How about around town driving?
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 06:57 PM
  #36  
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Any guesses on whether the 224/228 would make more power then the Stealth II cam on a 115lsa? Would this only be top end power or all around HP/TQ
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 06:14 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Colonel
"Colonel (on this forum) has hit 420 rwhp with a 224/220, .581/.581 116+4 lsa (comp XE-R) and he runs 11.2's with a 4000 stall."

The Stealth II is not +4, it's straight up. My engine made peak HP at 5900. Making it +4 would likely bring this back a couple hundred RPM.

.
I got my cam card, it says 4 degrees advance on a 112 icl.
Remember Colonel you have one of the prototypes. As you told me yours was a Comp XE-R grind, mine is a LUNATI (could be XE-R or similar).

We will see once I dyno, jst waiting for my heads. Also as i PM'd you

My cam card says 224/221, .576/.581 116lsa 4 deg advance on 112 icl. intake opens 0 BTDC and closes 44 ABDC.

2 possibilities:
1- It is a variation of your grind
2- the cam card is lying

Remember the big debate that this cam lopes and is not really that stealthy??

I think this is why "A slight variation on the grind in your car", even Jayson e-mailed me that it has a little lope and is less stealthy than the older S 1 .
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by c4hybrid2007
Chris are u speaking of the thunder racing 224/228 cam? How would this cam pass easier then the c2 on a 114lsa? Not questioning your judgement would jsut like to know. Would it make more power then the C2 or the Stealth Cam? Ill try and search before asking anymore ?? on it.
I would probably call comp and have them grind it for you on XE-R lobes on the intake side and XE lobes on the exhaust (You could do both intake and exhaust on XE-R lobes too but your valvetrain would like the softer exhaust lobe)

The reason for the slightly added exhaust duration is to help flow on the exhaust side with the added restriction of the cats. Also the aded exhaust duration will also help carry power well after peak.

I'd also look at Patriot springs with those new locks.



Chris
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 09:23 AM
  #39  
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"I got my cam card, it says 4 degrees advance on a 112 icl.
Remember Colonel you have one of the prototypes. As you told me yours was a Comp XE-R grind, mine is a LUNATI (could be XE-R or similar)."


Wow, now you got me thinking....maybe mine is the only one that's straight up? That would make mine idle smoother than one that's at +4 (since you're opening the intake valve up earlier) if there really is a difference between mine and the others. Then again, maybe I'm wrong and mine is really +4 too? The mystery continues....
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 10:03 AM
  #40  
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So, Colonel, you said that if advanced it would peak 200rpm sooner than yours (5900). So it would peak at like 5700

Should i get a cloyes adjustable timing chain and retard mine like 4 degrees???

Could you investigate with Jayson and let me know?

What do you think?
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