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Summit priming tool

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Old 02-13-2020, 08:57 AM
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Default Summit priming tool

Anyone use this priming tool that can give some feed back on it?

I’m guessing you would need the oil pump drive in place to align the pump then remove it to use the priming tool. Most timing sets with a separate pump drive do slide off and on without being pressed, but I’m curious if anyone here has used it.
Old 02-13-2020, 09:30 AM
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That is pretty simple. Anyone building these motors should have one to prime it vs. cranking your new motor to get oil pressure.
Old 02-13-2020, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 64post
That is pretty simple. Anyone building these motors should have one to prime it vs. cranking your new motor to get oil pressure.
Any issues removing and reinstalling the pump drive with the pump installed? Is it pointless to do this outside the car for the guy that may take a week to install motor and get it ready to fire?
Old 02-13-2020, 03:13 PM
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It’s not easy to remove the lower gear once it’s installed. It’s best used with the front cover off or before the front seal goes in to give yourself some room to work in case the gerotor falls down after the tool is used. That makes it hard to get the pump gear back in place.
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Old 02-13-2020, 03:32 PM
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Thank you for the honest answer.
Old 02-13-2020, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
Thank you for the honest answer.
Always. The tool definitely has its place and we want you to be happy with the experience. We’ve got some great pressure tank style options for people doing it in car if they’ve reached that point. Here they are and we’re expanding this lineup. https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ibanner=SREPD4.
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Old 02-13-2020, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Summitracing
Always. The tool definitely has its place and we want you to be happy with the experience. We’ve got some great pressure tank style options for people doing it in car if they’ve reached that point. Here they are and we’re expanding this lineup. https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ibanner=SREPD4.
This is what I used and it worked like a champ.
Old 02-13-2020, 06:38 PM
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To expand on this, I had beer, a bad crank, my old pump, and a bucket of oil, time and provisions for modification. Stick with me. I cut the crank snout off behind the gear, installed the pump on the drive, ran a sizeable bolt through that with some spacers and a nut, tighten. I drove that bolt with a socket on my 1/2' angle drill. Where the discharge port is, I tapped 1/2" npt, 2-4 threads is about all you can get. I set up a threader to cut tighter on a 1/2x6 pipe nipple, this allows a smaller leading edge diameter and lets more thread bite, screw in with tape or sealer. Perhaps you could weld some alum tubing or just use a pick up tube. Attach some vinyl tubing to pipe and threaded filter receiver, drop in a bucket of oil and run drill. Eventually bucket is low and pan is full. Drain, repeat as you feel necessary. like I said, I had time, tools and beer and it seems to have worked, 50k miles and still running. I did this with engine on stand and installed a week later. Use a longer vinyl tube if its in the car. Summit, I would think a similar primer device could be fabbed and sold retail in the $150 range. Or, most builders have the old pump, make a kit with your drive tool, a piece of metal tubing that bolts to pump, vinyl tube, hose clamps, etc. packaged in a bucket, all set.


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Old 02-13-2020, 08:27 PM
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Autometer part number 2268 is a M16 X 1.5 to 1/8 npt adapter. Used in conjunction with a 1/8 air hose fitting. $20 turned my motive power bleeder into a oil priming tool. I fill it with about 5 1/2 quarts and that seems to be just enough to get oil out of every pushrod. I use the oil port at the front of the engine so it fills the pickup tube and sends the rest through the filter. I then crank the engine without fuel or spark plugs and have instant pressure on the gauge.
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Old 02-14-2020, 04:45 AM
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Everyone I know locally does it the way you guys are talking about. That video just popped up on my recommended list. I thought it looked pretty slick and wondered why I never heard of anyone using it before. I can borrow a setup for the air forced priming. It’s a bit of an issue with the motor in the car because of the location of the alternator on a gto.

Is is there any issue priming it this way then not having the engine ready to fire for a few days or will it lose its prime?
Old 02-14-2020, 09:24 AM
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In that video the engine still needs some assembly and installation into a vehicle. So with either setup I do not see why that would be any different than parking your car for a few days. How bad is it to get to the spark plugs on the GTO ? You could always do one of the above mentioned techniques and then do the crank prime before startup as an added precaution.

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Old 02-14-2020, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 91LS1T56
In that video the engine still needs some assembly and installation into a vehicle. So with either setup I do not see why that would be any different than parking your car for a few days. How bad is it to get to the spark plugs on the GTO ? You could always do one of the above mentioned techniques and then do the crank prime before startup as an added precaution.
Spark plugs are super easy. I see what you’re saying my car has sat for a month at a time during the winter so it shouldn’t be any different if I prime it and it takes a few days to get ready to fire.
Old 02-15-2020, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 91LS1T56



Autometer part number 2268 is a M16 X 1.5 to 1/8 npt adapter. Used in conjunction with a 1/8 air hose fitting. $20 turned my motive power bleeder into a oil priming tool. I fill it with about 5 1/2 quarts and that seems to be just enough to get oil out of every pushrod. I use the oil port at the front of the engine so it fills the pickup tube and sends the rest through the filter. I then crank the engine without fuel or spark plugs and have instant pressure on the gauge.
I may have drilled and tapped that piece to fit the 1/4 npt air hose fitting, I do apologize for poor post.



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